Convertible top DIY
 

Hello,
I'm experiencing this problem.
The main gear inside the left gearbox is disengaged (infact the motors drive only the right arm while the left doesn't move-now both are loosen by my choiche and I act the top manually).
If I push the opening I ear a vibration/rattle but I see the little gear (inside 'B' -the one who moves the big half-gear 'A') doesn't rotate.
Now I'll take some time to unmount the part.
Does anyone have some picts or suggestions for this operation?
I remember monthes ago I saw a sort of DIY, but I'm no more able to find it.
May be I cancelled the file

The B gear doesn't move because the cable doesn't reach it, most likely it's shortened (common problem with no apparent reasons). You need to buy a new cable or shorten the jacket (my way). With either choice you have to take the B housing apart any way and then you can re-engage the A gear after installing new cable. Position it so that when you top is at up or down position, A gear should have decent amount of teeth left at each end to prevent it from being disenaged again.

Behind the white plastic cover in pic 1 is the gear end of the cable (the other end goes to the motor in the back, behind the seat.

today I went on and I took the B housing apart
I see the end of the cable free rotating at the button pushing command (the other end is still attached at the motor), the gear box seems ok
now I pull out the cable also from the motor and I'am into the situation (see photo, I moved the cable in and out in a very easy way)
I notice that the part of the cable out of the jacket on the gearbox side is veri short 3/4 mm. '3', while the part of the cable out of the jacket on the motor side is very long, about 23 mm. '1' (my be the cable is gone all towards one edge or is shortened by itself disengaging the gear, as you tell)
I want to try your way, shorten the jacket
so, the central part of the jacket is under the carpet and glued strongly '3'
in your opinion, can I move half out the cable and shorten the jacket using a dremel inside the car? or what way did you made...

Before you decide to cut, exam both ends of the cable to make sure they are still in a good square shape. if not, it could be the reason why it doesn't move the trans and you definitely need a new cable ( I see that you still have the old type of cable. On the new one, one end, at the trans side, is the gear itself)

I removed the jacket completely out of the the car and when finished I put it back without glue, but zip ties (as long as the jacket doensn't move too much). I guess you can cut it while it's still glued to the car but make sure cut it at the straight section. I cut the jacket, trimmed it as much as I need (forgot how much). Used a section of a clear tubing (similar size to the jacket), sliced open, aligned the now 2-piece jackets, and slip the clear tubing over the jackets with glue.

Just In case, you can slide the cable completely out of the jacket.

yes it's MY95 and the cable is identical on both edges
the edges are in a good square shape
what do you mean when you say "make sure cut it at the straight section"?
I want to remove the metal cap on the edge and retract the inner cable, cut and then reuse the same metal cup if possible
right so?

If you can remove the metal cap that would be great. I either didn't think of it or it wasn't possible. I cut/trimmed at a straight section along the jacket.

nice pics gentlemen.
I wonder if the cable just disengaged itselt from the worm drive in the 'B' gear?
ayrton, can't you just push the jacket back towards the motor end? I think I remember a little seat the jacket pops into on the motor end, that would give you the extra cable without cutting.

hn, on your last pic in post #2, 'metal piece goes here'
I remember the first time I took that thing apart and that little metal tab fell out, I had to take the other side apart just to figure out where it went. who comes up with this stuff?

When the cable is shortened, it makes the jacket become too long so there is no other way than shortenning the cable to match. Like you said, there is the slot for the jacket's metal end to sit in so you can't really push anything back.

The only reason I can think of for the purpose of the round metal piece is to protect the housing from the twisting cable when operated. I even tried to replace that piece with something thicker to push the cable back but it din't work because the cable's gear would be pushed back too.

Finally, being too difficult removing the metal cap without damaging it, I cut the jacket in the way you can see below
I tested the closing/opening twice and seems to be ok
tomorrow I'll refine the alignement
one question: the closing is ok till the top reaches the vertical position, then it drops very fast, is it normal?
the opening instead is very smooth

It seems like a common thing but it shouldn't drop faster than before, at least not because of the trim of the jacket.

Ayrton, how did you rejoin the shortened black cable cover?
Bill

hn, I agree
since I always closed the top manually, I was asking if it's normal this caracteristic
William, I simply glued it within an aluminium pipe having d.10x1 (inner 8 mm.) and 2,5 cm long, just to make more resistant the joint
for the vanity corner, this is my car (the yellow one) at the Imola Circuit paddok, yesterday (Porsche Club Swisse event)

I have a similar problem in that my cable is too short now. Don't want to spend $250 for a new one and I don't trust that the length will be proper on a used one for $100. I'm going to cut my cable housing and remove a 1/4 inch section, and re-attach per the method above using a metal sleeve. Is there a need to have the cut "keyed" like in the picture above, or couldn't a straight cut suffice? I don't think it matters if the two separate housing pieces rotate relative to one another a bit, as long as they stay compressed together, it will serve its purpose, right?

KMS

That is exactly what I did with great success. I drilled the cap at the location where it is crimped into the cable. The cap comes easily of and after you have shortened the cable, you take the same cap and use a hammer with a small screwdriver to "attach" the cap again. Saved my hundreds ...