BTW, my replacement filler tube is quite a bit longer than the filler tube that was in the car. When I insert it, it takes the cap to push it down into place.

I figure Porsche made it longer so that it would clear the rear body section more and so that owners wouldn't stretch it as much which is why mine probably split over time.

Which is going to be tough with the tiny sized holes in the plastic grill. Oil flows in slowly...air escapes slowly as well.

Peter:

Good write up. I have 2 things to add:

1. Before draining the oil, get a clear plastic tub and add about 8 qts of water. Make a mark on the outside with a sharpie. Add another quart and make another mark until you get to 11 qts. This way you'll know exactly how much oil came out, so you can put the same amount back in.

2. Don't put Mobil 1 in your car. Use Brad-Penn, or another oil that has the amount of zinc & phosphorous required by oil-cooled engines. There is an excellent thread over on Pelican about this.

Cheers,

Paul.

Paul

Two things,

#1. Good tip on the H2O thing...I am going to do that because no matter how accurate you think you are, you never are!

#2. Thank god YOU brought up the Brad Penn oil thing, not me! I was going to mention it but you know how these threads migrate..:corn:

Why not, wasn't it the factory fill?

My other car has run on Mobil 1 since the 600 mile inspection...not a scuff mark to be seen on the overhead cams, and that is with 188,000 kms (117,000 miles) and 0ºF winter starts over eleven years.

I am not an expert, but an expert told me to avoid using 'regular' oil in an air-cooled engine.

Good source of info...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...4-sm-oils.html

YMMV.

Paul, thanks for the advice - I found the zinc/phosphorus thing interesting - perhaps at my next OC. Peter

No, you misunderstood, I remove the tube completely, as I set it on the bench while I'm filling the car with oil. It will still flow slowly. I think you'll find many of us remove it completely when adding oil.

I use a Red-Line funnel I previously used on my BMW motorcycles to fill the 993 but it still flows slowly.

BTW, air will pass through those holes MUCH faster than oil ever would.

Good idea!

I filled it using the filler tube during my first oil change before winter lay-away. Talk about patience required.

I don't mind using funnels as long as they are smooth and can be thoroughly cleaned. Those with the ribs so that the spout bends easily I wouldn't consider.


Until most of them are filled with thick oil.

The question that none of these ever answers is how much ZnDDP (or any other additive) is needed. It is all very nice to have more of some additive, but if what you have will protect you, why would you need more.

Furthermore I thought I read that the zinc is a last line of defense when the oil film breaks down, so if it doesn't, the Zn never comes into play.

I am more worried about main bearings and especially the lay shaft bearings...those bearings tend to wear more (from what I have seen). The formulation changes are fairly recent, so its hard to judge how much of those eleven years were with the old formulation that had high zinc.

Its all up to each owner anyways...personally I run Swepco, great oil and high zinc. No point about arguing it more, there have been many many threads about it....and it never settles.. :cool:

Cheers,

Mike

Try going to a motorcycle forum if you think its bad on a car forum.

Not a single oil related failure experienced by anyone, yet you could fill volumes with the endless babble going on.

Then you get the experts that know better than the manufacturer. I just use what is recommended in the owner's manual...a tough concept to grasp for many.

Cam wear might not be a failure, as in my-engine-done-blow'd-up-at-the-side-of-the-road (like a 996/Boxster), but it's certainly something that's an extraordinary repair south of 200Kish miles.

Anyone mentioned Motul 300V???????

Isn't that a design flaw more than anything. Are you talking about the IMS bearings?

Is that a motorcycle oil? I know the Motul brand from motorcycle circles.

i'm curious when you did this first oil change, what jacking protocol you used to gain access to the tank and plug. your suggestions are all excellent. thanks for the summary.