rw229

How in the heck do you get the car that high? I use the "lift the rear and then the front" method described above. I have lowly Craftsman stands and don't feel comfortable getting the car that high. I don't think it's really a function of the stands, but more the the angles involved when lifting a (very lowered) car one end at a time.

mstolo

My two cents...I got a low profile jack so i can get under it great. But now the problem I have is that I really can't get it high enough (even using a hockey puck), without out wood. So check the lift height on a low profile jack to make sure you don't solve one problem and create another one. If I was going to do it again, I'd get an inexpensive jack that is not low profile (that also can get up there) and go with the 2X8 solution with some non-skid tape on the bottom.

boulderbobo

I have had quite a few folks ask the same question, so I wrote this up awhile ago.

I lifted the car in stages. I'll try to articulate how this was done.

I start by jacking up the drivers side of the car using the rear drivers side jack point. While the car is up, install front left jack stand and a block of wood (6-8" high) or several blocks of wood under the rear left (drivers side) tire. You will also be able to put some blocking under the passenger side rear tire because it will also be in the air (kind of scary). The blocking is added because once the front of the car is on the jack stand the *** end get too low to get the hydraulic jack under car to the engine seam jacking point. Now the car is on 1 jack stand (drivers side front) with 3 holes showing with blocking under the rear wheels.

Repeat this process for the the passenger side of the car. Now you have both front jack stands installed 3 holes showing. 6-8" of blocking under both rear wheels.

Then I use the engine seam to get the rear of the car on jack stands (2). Three holes showing.

The car is now on 4 stands with 3 holes showing all the way around.

Now the tricky part.

You need to find another structural member close to each of the front jack stands and raise the car using a hydraulic jack just high enough to get the 4th hole exposed on the jack stand. I do not have photo editing software to identify these points but look for a structural member as close to the jack stand as possible. To get the rear stands to 4 holes showing, I block under the hydraulic jack and use the engine seam.

Go slow.

Be careful.

Be kind to your car.

Hope this helps.



Bob-

DanL993

Bob,

I alomost sent a PM in response, and then thought we could all benefit from this. Here goes:

Your approach sounds a bit complicated. Could the same result (four holes showing) be achieved using VNTGSPD's apprach and incrementally raising each end? Start with the rear getting it on jack stands, then move to the front using the board to get it on stands, then raise the rear again to the top level, and back to the front?

BTW sorry to hear the sale fell through. I AM thinking about the "Buy it and dye it, Dan" approach. We'll see. Where the hell is ilko when you need him?

pcarhombre

So the method in the previous post actually involves using the rear jack stands to create a fulcrum? And then lifting the front with the board to set the front stands? Sorry if that was obvious to you. I'm just trying to be clear.
Also, how do I identify the area behind the bumper cover to use? I have a FPB on and am not sure what I am supposed to put the board up against. (I take it the board goes in perpendicular to the front?) Sorry, but you guys know I don't mind putting my ignorance on display, just so I can learn

rc1320

I think we need a video to show how this works.

pcarhombre

+993. Let the alchemists show their stuff!

dcdude

Scroll down for further discussion and photos of the front 2x6 placement:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=44637

cgfen

yes

have fun

Craig