vjd3

I have a 97 C2 cab, which I converted to manual operation after the usual hassles with the top transmissions.

I've been using the rocker switch to latch the top for the last two years. Now, it's not working anymore. I can hear the rear motors running when I hit the switch (they are no longer connected to anything) but the latches themselves won't activate.

First, I lowered the top, and manually pushed in both switches with the rocker switch depressed; the latches did not operate, so it's not a problem with the top being misaligned so both switches don't get depressed when the top is resting on top of the windshield.

I checked both microswitches with a multimeter for continuity; they seem to be fine (1 when open, 0 when you close the tabs and hear the click).

I also checked the two-wire connector that plugs into the microswitch; on one harness, I got a reading of 1 when I plugged the tips into the holes. But on the other, I got a reading of 1600-1700 ... and I have no idea what that might mean as I barely know how to operate a multimeter.

Any thoughts? Bad motor?

964speed

My cab had a simular issue took to a dealer - $1400 for two new motors and the labor...

95cab

Is it possibly a fuse? I have a bad latch motor and it clicks when trying to lock the top to the windshield. You don't seem to have the same issue. I have no clue on the multimeter readings.

Slow Guy

First, you should pull the plug(s) on the main top motor so it doesn't continue to run, you only want the latch motors to function. It sounds like a microswitch adjustment or the cab top controller, but that's just a long distance guess right now.

vjd3

Pretty sure it's not a microswitch, as I also jumpered the harness for those and the latches still didn't operate (this worked once before, though).

Controller is a logical suspect, but I'm still mystified about the multimeter readings on one harness vs. the second one.

nile13

Two new motors are $400 from the dealer.

Vic, we can try to diagnose it with mine side by side. Mine's sitting somewhere in Framingham now.

If you'd like, buzz me tonight and we can try to do some diagnostics over the phone.

vjd3

Hey Mike ... missed your post, sorry ... can you PM your number?

vjd3

I got under the dash to pull the control unit, only to find that someone had been there before, stuffed the VDO unit up top, tie-wrapped the control unit below it, and really munged two of the four connectors, to the point where there are no brackets around two of them, just wires stuck onto the posts. I was able to get it out, but have no idea which wires go into which spots on the connectors anymore. The whole thing was wrapped in electrical tape.

I also found the missing connectors brackets under the seat

Don't you love it when someone else has screwed around with the car before you, yourself, get to screw around with it?

However, the unit is now out of the car. I took the covers off, and found that some of the capacitors appear to have melted, as there is hardened white foam all over the place. I noted that in the earlier thread about this problem, one of the pictures someone took over their control unit had foam all over it, as well, another person didn't. I can't tell if that's the source of my problem, or the suspect looking solder joints. I am only using the unit to close the latches, not operate the rest of the top. Picture attached.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram that might be able to clear tell me which color wire matches up to which pin? The pins are labeled on the cover, but I only have the CD version of the wiring diagram, which is fuzzy and cut off right in the middle of the convertible portion, helpfully.





I suspect I need a new controller anyway, although if my guess that it's the two connectors on the right that control the latches, that's away from the mess on the circuit board.

vjd3

BTW, the original thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...em-solved.html

nile13

Vic, I emailed the phone number to you. I do have the actual paper diagram book, but it's deep in storage somewhere. If I do find it, I'll definitely let you know.

vjd3

Thanks, Mike, I sussed it out with the blurry diagram I had. The latches worked ... twice. It's still intermittent, despite some soldering work I did on the pins. I think the melted components aren't helping anything. I found a used controller at dcautomotive for $275, but a new one from Sunset is $417 (compared to $700 at the local dealer), so I ordered it. Seems like a better idea to get the warranty on it since a used one could have the same issues as my old one.

H20NOO

Helpful thread. My top stopped working a couple days ago. It closed but the latch motors didn't operate. I checked fuses and everything was ok. Microswitches could be a problem so I took the header off and rechecked all connections. Then, pulled the top controller box and found multiple cold solder joints primarily on the large pin connectors from the wiring harness. Resoldered all of them and... nothing! I loosened the drive nuts and put the top down manually. Checked again and presto... motors running and locks moving. So the problem appears only when the top is up. I remembered once seeing the wiring harness that runs up the right side of the soft top and has to do a 180 degree bend when the top is open had become frayed. At the time, I wrapped it heavily with electrical tape and secured it to the top frame and that seemed to do it.

Over the years, with repeated opening/closinig, the black wire (power?) had nearly broken in two. I stripped it down, spliced/soldered a new section in, taped and re-secured everything and now it's working fine again. The extra 1/2" of added length from the splice will probably reduce the pull on the wire when the top is closed.

All told, about 3 hours of work to diagnose and repair. Re-soldering the control unit is a bonus as it looked like the pins were ready to pull out of the circuit board and would no doubt have been a problem in the future.

As for removing the controller box and the other VDO box mounted on top of it, I used a snake drive very effectively. It's basically a screwdriver handle with a ratchet mechanism and a flexible shaft about 12" long. You can access the screws by feel, plant the drive and then loosen/tighten very easily. Good tool to have.

MC