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Hydraulic "Lifter" Anatomy - pics

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Old 08-09-2009, 09:23 AM
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Blaine S
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Mark - when mine were replaced the new ones came with light blue seals instead of black rubber. Do you know if these have improved longevity or have you seen these?
Old 08-09-2009, 12:26 PM
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MarkD
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Originally Posted by jhummel68
Is there a way to know when to replace the seals, besides noisy lifters? Is this something we should be doing as preventative maintenance on 15 year old cars?
The seals are not replaceable, gotta buy the whole lifter.
I wouldn't worry about it until there is an issue.

Originally Posted by Blaine S
Mark - when mine were replaced the new ones came with light blue seals instead of black rubber. Do you know if these have improved longevity or have you seen these?
That sounds like the color of new seals in the lifters currently sold by Luk and INA.

Luk and INA are part of the same parent company (Shaeffler Group) so I am not even sure if they are any different. They don't even state that Luk makes engine components so it is quite possible that the Luk are re-branded INA lifters.
In any case, I am not sure it matters. Both are OE quality parts.
Old 10-09-2009, 04:56 AM
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CaptainGSR
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Here is what's left of my 3 driver's side intake lifters:
The middle one is obviously collapsed, and the seal is gone. It was responsible for the clac clac clac.....
The left one had no seal at all! (Front Intake)
The seal on the right one broke when I pryed the lifter out. (Aft Intake)

I must add that all driver's side exhaust lifter seals also broke in half, when I pulled the respective lifters out of their rocker arms.

The engine has 100000miles, and the car is a 95 c2.
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Old 10-09-2009, 09:45 AM
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jhummel68
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Thanks for posting pictures. Was the clacking loud like a conventional valve out of adjustment or was it a subtle clacking? I haven't heard what a deflated lifter on these cars sounds like. Is it difficult getting the old lifters out? I have a feeling we will all face this at some time.
Old 10-09-2009, 01:17 PM
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jhale
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I haven't heard what a deflated lifter on these cars sounds like. Is it difficult getting the old lifters out?
I was just going to ask the same question. Does the engine need to be out of the car to replace these? I have to imagine it difficult to diagnose a failed lifter over the sound of the engine and Fisters...
Old 10-09-2009, 01:32 PM
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AOW162435
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Originally Posted by jhale
Does the engine need to be out of the car to replace these?
No. On jackstands works fine.


Andreas
Old 10-09-2009, 02:05 PM
  #22  
Edward
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Originally Posted by jhale
I was just going to ask the same question. Does the engine need to be out of the car to replace these? I have to imagine it difficult to diagnose a failed lifter over the sound of the engine and Fisters...
A failed lifter will sound bad ...and I mean bad! Because of the obvious racket, you will also be able to diagnose it to at least the intake or exhaust of either bank. Once you're in there, just replace all three ...easy. they pull right out (or did when I did mine). And if they don't, grab em with pliers as they are dead anywhoo. Be certain to look carefully for any rubber remnants, though.

Edward
Old 10-09-2009, 03:30 PM
  #23  
CaptainGSR
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The engine was indeed very very loud! It was literally an embarrassing clacking noise.

You could easily tell it was coming from the driver's intake side, and not the exhaust. I went ahead and replaced the exhaust ones just as preventive maintenance. I did the plugs too.

I tried to use a stethoscope to isolate which intake lifter was collapsed, but I was unsuccessful. Anyways, it is such a PITA to get to one of them, that you are better off replacing all three of them at once. I would replace the cover gaskets too.

The engine stayed in, but a significant amount of things had to be removed in order to be able to remove both driver's side valve covers:

1-Left Muffler + brackets (exhaust side access)

2-Left engine tin (allows better access to intake side, and allows torque wrench to be used)

3-Left Heater Blower, and plastic hose (easy on early 95 non-varioram car)


Removing all these is a total PITA. Removing the engine tin is not necessary, but it allows you to use a torque wrench when putting everything back together.

If you strip a bolt, don't panic: hammer a torx 40 socket in it. (Little Know fact: Pep Boys sells the same size bolts and washers.)

PM me for more info on the whole thing.

Last edited by CaptainGSR; 10-09-2009 at 03:46 PM.
Old 10-09-2009, 03:43 PM
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CaptainGSR
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BTW: the wheels did not have to come off.
Old 10-09-2009, 04:33 PM
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tj90
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With 120k on my engine, all my lifters had seals that were deteriorated. The plastic just crumbled when handled. Suprisingly, none were collapsed.

I strongly urge anyone doing a clutch job or fixing a failed lifter with significant miles (90k+) to budget for replacement on all 12. Another while your in there project...

The replacement INAs that I put in 10 months ago did not look like blue seals. They were white if I remember correctly...
Old 10-10-2009, 04:12 PM
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Barney1
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When I did my new valve covers a year or two ago, I replaced all the exhaust lifters. Some were a little flat. When I remove the engine and trans to do the clutch and syncros I will do the intakes.



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