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Old 03-20-2009, 10:08 PM
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CornerCarver
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Default Track pads bed in question

I just installed a set of Hawk HT10's on used rotors that had oem pads previously. I will be driving approximately 40 miles to the track with brand new Hawks and plan to bed in pads during the 1st DE session. Is it a bad idea to drive on the pads before bedding?
Old 03-20-2009, 10:28 PM
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RickBetterley
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Hi Al
Any chance you can bed them during the early part of the drive to the track? I think that would be better than waiting until you get there.
If not, just use light brakes on the way to the track.
Have fun!
Old 03-20-2009, 10:43 PM
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Generally you should bed all pads before any hard use. Do you have a highway near your home?

If so, do 5 or so stops from 70 to 30 with medium pedal pressure, (make sure you have no one behind you) let cool for 1/4 mile between applications.'

You can do this just prior to getting to the track as well, for optimal brake performance there needs to be ther removal of the old pad material from the rotors and transfer of the new material.

If you can do a full bedding in on the highway i would recommend that, as follows, this is the pagid procedure that i have used for years and has always worked well for me.

Basic bedding in
5-8 stops with light to medium brake pressure from approximately 90 MPH to 65 MPH. Distance between each brake stop approximately 300 to 400 yards. The pads should not reach temperatures above 300 - 400°C (550 - 750°F) during bedding in. No dragging!

Blocking of the air ducts might be helpful to reach appropriate temperatures quicker.

Immediately after basic bedding in at high speed
One stop with medium to heavy brake pressure, without allowing brakes to lock from approximately 110 MPH to approximately 65 MPH. Recovery stops with light brake pressure 3-4 times. Repeat the high speed stops, including recovery stops, 2-3 times. Allow a cooling-off distance of approximately 500 yards between high speed stops.
Old 03-20-2009, 11:48 PM
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I just returned from some highway bed in cycles. Hopefully it did the job. After I did the last high speed stop I drove about 2 miles back home. The calipers didn't appear to be that hot after I pulled in to the garage. Should I try an additional bed in on the drive to the track?
Old 03-21-2009, 11:26 AM
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If you have a lot of stop go to get to the track then just a couple of cycles, otherwise as soon as you hit the track you should be good..... Have Fun.

By the way do you have a side pic of your car? You have a GT2 rear spoiler dont you?
Old 03-21-2009, 11:34 AM
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Al,

You're fine doing what you did. A few hard stops on the warm up/yellow flag lap should do the trick, too. I run HT-10's and do the same thing.
Old 03-21-2009, 06:35 PM
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Thanks everyone. The pads performed great today on a short track fairly hard on braking. I love this car! The weather was great and had a good time with some friends. The only sucky part of the day was when my friend in an M3 kicked up a bolder and cracked my windshield. Wasn't too bad to end the day, but I will need to replace before next event, cause I doubt tech will pass it. So, anyone know a good installation place in NJ? Also, where is the best deal on the glass?
Old 03-21-2009, 10:54 PM
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I drove with a cracked windshield for nearly 1/2 year without hearing boo from Tech. How bad is it?

Next time try Hawk DTC 70. Better than 10's IMO.
Old 03-21-2009, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 007DT
I drove with a cracked windshield for nearly 1/2 year without hearing boo from Tech. How bad is it?

Next time try Hawk DTC 70. Better than 10's IMO.

Cracks are not that large; two half circles close together about the size of a silver dollar. What makes them better than 10's. The 10's are noisey as hell.
Old 03-22-2009, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by CornerCarver
Cracks are not that large; two half circles close together about the size of a silver dollar. What makes them better than 10's. The 10's are noisey as hell.
The compound isn't as harsh. I also think there is alot more feel in the pedal. I found the 10's to be brutal on my rotors and truly not the same feel as the DTC's. However the DTC's are more $$. As are all things that feel better
Old 03-22-2009, 10:46 AM
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Yes. The 10's are harsh on the rotors and probably overkill for me. Plus, they squeal like a pig. I will look into the DTC. Are the DTC's noisy?
Old 03-22-2009, 01:42 PM
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Not nearly as noisy. But yes they'll squeal a bit.
Old 03-22-2009, 01:57 PM
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Dave,

Cost is one of the reasons I use the HT-10's; do the DTC 70's last a lot longer than the HT-10's?

Also, I've hardly ever have squealing issues with the HT-10's.
Old 03-22-2009, 02:29 PM
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Not sure of the longevity of the DTC's vs. HT10's because I went through 2 sets of rotors on the 10's and still had pad left. I'd suspect that the DTC's do not last as long. From a cost standpoint I'm saving money in rotors vs when I used 10's.

Al, do you spay anti-squeal on the backing plate of the pads before putting them in?
Old 03-22-2009, 04:01 PM
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Speaking of rotors. Where is the best place to get them and does anyone make slotted for the 993?

I did not spray anti-squeal. They are very loud.





Originally Posted by 007DT
Not sure of the longevity of the DTC's vs. HT10's because I went through 2 sets of rotors on the 10's and still had pad left. I'd suspect that the DTC's do not last as long. From a cost standpoint I'm saving money in rotors vs when I used 10's.

Al, do you spay anti-squeal on the backing plate of the pads before putting them in?


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