Where and how to mount rear canisters for remote reservoir shocks?
11-25-2008, 04:23 PM
#1
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Where and how to mount rear canisters for remote reservoir shocks?
Edit: Problem Solved, update in post #26.
I'm hoping for some advice on mounting the rear canisters for JRZ or Moton shocks. Some people have drilled huge holes in their cars to get the cans through (pic below) but I don't want to do that. A couple alternatives seem to be:
1) Have quick-disconnects installed in the lines so that you can drill a smaller hole in the car;
2) Push the can up thru the big hole in the center of the seating area. Dunno if this is for real.
3) Install cans in the engine bay. Not sure how you route the lines up though.
Sample pics of (a) huge hole that I want to avoid, and (b) quick-connect in a non-porsche:
I'm hoping for some advice on mounting the rear canisters for JRZ or Moton shocks. Some people have drilled huge holes in their cars to get the cans through (pic below) but I don't want to do that. A couple alternatives seem to be:
1) Have quick-disconnects installed in the lines so that you can drill a smaller hole in the car;
2) Push the can up thru the big hole in the center of the seating area. Dunno if this is for real.
3) Install cans in the engine bay. Not sure how you route the lines up though.
Sample pics of (a) huge hole that I want to avoid, and (b) quick-connect in a non-porsche:
Last edited by TheOtherEric; 02-01-2019 at 05:45 PM.
11-25-2008, 04:51 PM
#3
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#2 with quik disconnects. Don't tell anyone, but I have removed all the nitrogen pressure from a non-quick disconnect shock and then the reservoir and just routed the line through rubber plug in the bottom back part of the rear seat well. Reconnected and installed pressure. You MUST make sure you do not spill any of the shock fluid (essentially just motorcycle hydraulic fluid). In front, it is connected to the strut brace. You will need to slot a small channel for the hose so it is not pinched by the camber plates.
11-25-2008, 06:18 PM
#4
RL Technical Advisor
Eric,
QD's are the way to go here.
I've done what Bob did and found air in the shocks when I went to check them later so if you disconnect the lines, be prepared to bleed them on the bench.
I've ordered QD's on 993 Clubsports but it adds to the cost, as I'm sure you know. Usually, I just put them on the rears since the front struts can be installed and mounted without disconnecting anything. As Bob said, you simply need to slot the Camber Plates a bit.
QD's are the way to go here.
I've done what Bob did and found air in the shocks when I went to check them later so if you disconnect the lines, be prepared to bleed them on the bench.
I've ordered QD's on 993 Clubsports but it adds to the cost, as I'm sure you know. Usually, I just put them on the rears since the front struts can be installed and mounted without disconnecting anything. As Bob said, you simply need to slot the Camber Plates a bit.
11-25-2008, 06:39 PM
#5
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Sounds like QDs are the way to go. Is that something most rebuild shops can easily retrofit? I'd think they'd need new lines too instead of just the fittings.
Hmm. Do you slot the camber plate or the car?
Originally Posted by viperbob
In front, it is connected to the strut brace. You will need to slot a small channel for the hose so it is not pinched by the camber plates.
11-25-2008, 08:21 PM
#7
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Whats wrong with leaving them in the engine bay? I have mine mounted at the front of the engine compartment where they are easy to get to. They never seem hot as there is a lot of air flow there. Car handles Awsome. They would be harder for me to get to in the back seat area. I don't care if anyone can see them.
Jeff
Jeff
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11-25-2008, 09:12 PM
#9
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Eric,
As you probably know, I have mine mounted in the engine compartment. I think they are probably better positioned in the car itself, though, and always lift the engine lid after a run to keep the cans cool. That said, having the cans in the engine compartment has not seemed to slow me down or adversely affect the handling.
As you probably know, I have mine mounted in the engine compartment. I think they are probably better positioned in the car itself, though, and always lift the engine lid after a run to keep the cans cool. That said, having the cans in the engine compartment has not seemed to slow me down or adversely affect the handling.
Last edited by Mark in Baltimore; 11-26-2008 at 12:22 AM.
11-26-2008, 12:54 AM
#11
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Yikes, I just read somewhere else that the quick disconnects & lines are like $200 to $300 per side. Ouch.
Mark - your solution is sounding better.
Mark - your solution is sounding better.
11-26-2008, 01:20 AM
#12
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11-26-2008, 09:01 AM
#13
I have my Moton rear reserviors mounted in the engine compartment just above the engine on the bottom side of the rear shelf.
I do not have the heater fan so there is room. Locating the right side was tight but I am able to access the adjuster and can easily get to the nitrogen fill valve.
I positioned the reserviors when the engine was out (to get the hose past the engine shroud), but I drilled the mounting holes with the engine installed.
The fronts are mounted on the strut brace with the car and camber plates slotted.
The reserviors never even get warm after a 45 minute track session.
I will post a few photos when I get home tonight.
Mike
I do not have the heater fan so there is room. Locating the right side was tight but I am able to access the adjuster and can easily get to the nitrogen fill valve.
I positioned the reserviors when the engine was out (to get the hose past the engine shroud), but I drilled the mounting holes with the engine installed.
The fronts are mounted on the strut brace with the car and camber plates slotted.
The reserviors never even get warm after a 45 minute track session.
I will post a few photos when I get home tonight.
Mike
11-26-2008, 10:53 AM
#15
Rennlist Member
Eric, I should clarify that my rear cans sometimes do get warm if I forget to lift the lid after a session. However, even on the hottest days, with all of the air moving around, they remain cool immediately after a run
