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Eric, I should clarify that my rear cans sometimes do get warm if I forget to lift the lid after a session. However, even on the hottest days, with all of the air moving around, they remain cool immediately after a run
Yes, that makes sense. Any tricks with routing the lines up?
My rear hoses are between the engine shroud and the chassie and go throught a slot in the rubber seal.
That lets the hoses drop to the shock bottom in the ideal location.
I have a split rubber fuel line over the reservior hose for protection from abrasion.
Mike
Here's a lower cost solution to the staubli. I think they only come -4 though. I just used on clutch line in race car i'm building and seems to work well. The fitting screws together vs quarter turn on the staubli.
Here's a lower cost solution to the staubli. I think they only come -4 though. I just used on clutch line in race car i'm building and seems to work well. The fitting screws together vs quarter turn on the staubli.
Although -4 is of a more common size for dry breaks, dampers need -5, an odd size really.
Jiffy-Tite is another lower cost dry break supplier but dynamic canister pressures are too high for them to be used safely. I bought a set of these later to be warned. They are still in the package
Eric,
Those photos are from during the suspension rebuild so they are before any exposure. Most of the suspension links are new RS with new hardware.
Many, many hours spent getting the factory "protective "coating off. Never did understand what a partial coating was intended to do.
Does look great when done though and pretty easy to keep looking good.
Mike
I mounted mine to the Club Sport wing. They were right in the path of the incoming air and never got hot. The front struts are the ones that have the biggest issues with heat and will burn the shock oil first anyway.
Sorry to resurrect this thread 10 years later, but I finally figured this out. Like Mike suggested, the lines easily run through the rubber seal between the engine tins and body. Then I just fabbed up some brackets from aluminum bar stock and mounted to the deck lid at existing holes. No drilling or cutting the car anywhere. Then used 2" adel clamps, which are pretty inexpensive but work fine. Super happy with it.
Best way to get the rear cans inside the car is quick disconnects and simply run the lines through the existing grommet holes in the rear seat. The canisters mount right onto the roll bar.
Sorry to resurrect this thread 10 years later, but I finally figured this out. Like Mike suggested, the lines easily run through the rubber seal between the engine tins and body. Then I just fabbed up some brackets from aluminum bar stock and mounted to the deck lid at existing holes. No drilling or cutting the car anywhere. Then used 2" adel clamps, which are pretty inexpensive but work fine. Super happy with it.
Very clean and straightforward installation - nicely done. No drilling or cutting is a huge bonus as well - looks great!
11-26-2008, 11:02 AM
