Engine sound mat - aftermarket vs OEM - & install tips
11-12-2008, 10:00 AM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Engine sound mat - aftermarket vs OEM - & install tips
Engine is out of the car - my OEM foam is falling apart. Ordered OEM sound mat and noticed that its much thinner (wimpy) compared to the original OEM mat. The vinyl covering seems thinner than the original.
I now read that others are disappointed with the performance of OEM pad compared to aftermarket pads. Darn.. wish I read that first before ordering.
Anyway, can anyone comment on their experience with the new OEM mats? or where I can find a superior aftermarket sound mat?
Looks like the old one is glued in, I was thinking of using something like 3M spray adhesive on the new one during install. Anything better out there or is this approach incorrect?
I now read that others are disappointed with the performance of OEM pad compared to aftermarket pads. Darn.. wish I read that first before ordering.
Anyway, can anyone comment on their experience with the new OEM mats? or where I can find a superior aftermarket sound mat?
Looks like the old one is glued in, I was thinking of using something like 3M spray adhesive on the new one during install. Anything better out there or is this approach incorrect?
11-12-2008, 10:33 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Engine is out of the car - my OEM foam is falling apart. Ordered OEM sound mat and noticed that its much thinner (wimpy) compared to the original OEM mat. The vinyl covering seems thinner than the original.
I now read that others are disappointed with the performance of OEM pad compared to aftermarket pads. Darn.. wish I read that first before ordering.
Anyway, can anyone comment on their experience with the new OEM mats? or where I can find a superior aftermarket sound mat?
Looks like the old one is glued in, I was thinking of using something like 3M spray adhesive on the new one during install. Anything better out there or is this approach incorrect?
I now read that others are disappointed with the performance of OEM pad compared to aftermarket pads. Darn.. wish I read that first before ordering.
Anyway, can anyone comment on their experience with the new OEM mats? or where I can find a superior aftermarket sound mat?
Looks like the old one is glued in, I was thinking of using something like 3M spray adhesive on the new one during install. Anything better out there or is this approach incorrect?
Someone may have glued the top edge to repair it.
11-12-2008, 11:06 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Mark - thanks for the information. Seems that the original foam was glued and fastened. Others have commented that with replacement foam, they glue and fasten as well. I definitely want to glue the new pad in at the top so it is slower to drop. Of course, the original one lasted 13 years...
11-12-2008, 11:46 AM
#5
Rennlist Member
Mark - thanks for the information. Seems that the original foam was glued and fastened. Others have commented that with replacement foam, they glue and fasten as well. I definitely want to glue the new pad in at the top so it is slower to drop. Of course, the original one lasted 13 years...
Good luck with the project!
11-12-2008, 03:35 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
the old one is easy to remove, the glue stays on the mat.
Place the new one in the car, before you glue anything.
It is pre-cut to go around cables, harnesses, etc.
After it is inside, push it down vertically from the middle so as the mat is horizontal.
Take the 3M glue spray, one hand underneath the mat and the other hand with the spray above, and start by the left and right corners inside surrounding harnesses that go to the front of the car. Do not worry, it won't drip, and if it does, it goes down on the mat.
Now work up until the the first hook, these screw clockwise to hold.
Apply little pressure with the hand under the mat, to pinch holes where the hooks apply.
mount the hooks gradually as you glue up until the MIDDLE lip of the car body.
Now there is the left and right side still hanging,
Just spray inside and work the pad until it surrounds the hood pivots.
Make sure the top end of the mat facing you is perfectly aligned with the hooks.
IMPORTANT: Take a small carton 20 cms by 20 cms and some light scotch tape.
now bend the carton and make a small lip on the edge
Now scotch tape the carton on to the pad in the middle of the lip, just above where the ISV is.
WHile you will introduce the engine, the varioram where the ISV sits has two claws that grab the ISV.
Those claws will touch the new pad and slice it just at the edge when introducing engine, right in the middle above the engine, and will make you angry. So just protect this part with a carton, and when engine is in and all is well, remove the carton, voila
Place the new one in the car, before you glue anything.
It is pre-cut to go around cables, harnesses, etc.
After it is inside, push it down vertically from the middle so as the mat is horizontal.
Take the 3M glue spray, one hand underneath the mat and the other hand with the spray above, and start by the left and right corners inside surrounding harnesses that go to the front of the car. Do not worry, it won't drip, and if it does, it goes down on the mat.
Now work up until the the first hook, these screw clockwise to hold.
Apply little pressure with the hand under the mat, to pinch holes where the hooks apply.
mount the hooks gradually as you glue up until the MIDDLE lip of the car body.
Now there is the left and right side still hanging,
Just spray inside and work the pad until it surrounds the hood pivots.
Make sure the top end of the mat facing you is perfectly aligned with the hooks.
IMPORTANT: Take a small carton 20 cms by 20 cms and some light scotch tape.
now bend the carton and make a small lip on the edge
Now scotch tape the carton on to the pad in the middle of the lip, just above where the ISV is.
WHile you will introduce the engine, the varioram where the ISV sits has two claws that grab the ISV.
Those claws will touch the new pad and slice it just at the edge when introducing engine, right in the middle above the engine, and will make you angry. So just protect this part with a carton, and when engine is in and all is well, remove the carton, voila
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11-12-2008, 06:23 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
the old one is easy to remove, the glue stays on the mat.
Place the new one in the car, before you glue anything.
It is pre-cut to go around cables, harnesses, etc.
After it is inside, push it down vertically from the middle so as the mat is horizontal.
Take the 3M glue spray, one hand underneath the mat and the other hand with the spray above, and start by the left and right corners inside surrounding harnesses that go to the front of the car. Do not worry, it won't drip, and if it does, it goes down on the mat.
Now work up until the the first hook, these screw clockwise to hold.
Apply little pressure with the hand under the mat, to pinch holes where the hooks apply.
mount the hooks gradually as you glue up until the MIDDLE lip of the car body.
Now there is the left and right side still hanging,
Just spray inside and work the pad until it surrounds the hood pivots.
Make sure the top end of the mat facing you is perfectly aligned with the hooks.
IMPORTANT: Take a small carton 20 cms by 20 cms and some light scotch tape.
now bend the carton and make a small lip on the edge
Now scotch tape the carton on to the pad in the middle of the lip, just above where the ISV is.
WHile you will introduce the engine, the varioram where the ISV sits has two claws that grab the ISV.
Those claws will touch the new pad and slice it just at the edge when introducing engine, right in the middle above the engine, and will make you angry. So just protect this part with a carton, and when engine is in and all is well, remove the carton, voila
Place the new one in the car, before you glue anything.
It is pre-cut to go around cables, harnesses, etc.
After it is inside, push it down vertically from the middle so as the mat is horizontal.
Take the 3M glue spray, one hand underneath the mat and the other hand with the spray above, and start by the left and right corners inside surrounding harnesses that go to the front of the car. Do not worry, it won't drip, and if it does, it goes down on the mat.
Now work up until the the first hook, these screw clockwise to hold.
Apply little pressure with the hand under the mat, to pinch holes where the hooks apply.
mount the hooks gradually as you glue up until the MIDDLE lip of the car body.
Now there is the left and right side still hanging,
Just spray inside and work the pad until it surrounds the hood pivots.
Make sure the top end of the mat facing you is perfectly aligned with the hooks.
IMPORTANT: Take a small carton 20 cms by 20 cms and some light scotch tape.
now bend the carton and make a small lip on the edge
Now scotch tape the carton on to the pad in the middle of the lip, just above where the ISV is.
WHile you will introduce the engine, the varioram where the ISV sits has two claws that grab the ISV.
Those claws will touch the new pad and slice it just at the edge when introducing engine, right in the middle above the engine, and will make you angry. So just protect this part with a carton, and when engine is in and all is well, remove the carton, voila
Good write up. However, TJ, you could just leave it out...the car will sound so much cooler
11-21-2008, 01:12 AM
#11
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I just received my engine foam from Ultimate and boy I cant wait to install. Take a look at this work of art. Bye Bye old crappy foam. This is much more sturdy than the porsche OEM replacement foam. Id say the only disadvantage I see with the ultimate foam is that they did not coat the top edge like the factory does... The factory is one ply foam, but this is 3 ply - a foam rubberized layer, a denser fiberous layer and finally an aluminized skin. It seems that it would make the most sense to install with aluminum skin toward the motor but aesetically, it would be better to have the black toward the engine for more OEM look. How did you guys install?
11-21-2008, 07:17 AM
#12
Drifting
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Wow that looks really nice 
. Do you think that this material would work inside the cabin as well? I mean if you intend to gut all the old isolation material and replace it with an Appbiz RS carpet kit, maybe this could work as thinner/lighter/more effective isolation under the RS carpet kit?
. Do you think that this material would work inside the cabin as well? I mean if you intend to gut all the old isolation material and replace it with an Appbiz RS carpet kit, maybe this could work as thinner/lighter/more effective isolation under the RS carpet kit?
11-21-2008, 10:18 AM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Appbiz sells a bunch of carpets, foam etc. Hes on ebay and calls the foam the Ultimate:
http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/appbiz..._mdoZQQ_sopZ12
Im not sure it would work in the cabin... Maybe someone else could chime in. Give him a call or email. BTW, Robert (Appbiz) says to install aluminum skin toward the firewall.
http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/appbiz..._mdoZQQ_sopZ12
Im not sure it would work in the cabin... Maybe someone else could chime in. Give him a call or email. BTW, Robert (Appbiz) says to install aluminum skin toward the firewall.
11-21-2008, 10:47 AM
#15
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thanks, TJ.
For some reason everyone lists their carpets to '94. They also claim that they make or can make 993 carpets, but none of them (appbiz, World upholstery, Hahn, ect) list tem.
For some reason everyone lists their carpets to '94. They also claim that they make or can make 993 carpets, but none of them (appbiz, World upholstery, Hahn, ect) list tem.
