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I had this problem a few years ago - lousy design.... the seal channel is plastic and flimsy and warps and breaks with all the engine heat back there. You can DIY - buy a new seal and do what I did.....
I had this problem a few years ago - lousy design.... the seal channel is plastic and flimsy and warps and breaks with all the engine heat back there. You can DIY - buy a new seal and do what I did.....
I would say this is a good idea, since I had the same issue. My window guy did it but pretty much would say this was his method. When I had my front windshield replaced, he used some type of epoxy or seal. About 1.5 years later, no seal popping out.
I went to the local Porsche dealership a few years ago on this issue and they tried to order parts for the broken plastic 2x and both times I got an outter seal. They obviously were confused and finally told me to call a window shop.
Sure, the 3M product will fill the void. Make sure to remove the seal, scrub the heck out of the area where the channel is broken and let it dry overnight.
I would definitely buy a new seal AND examine the channel all around. If it's breaking in one area, it's likey shot all along the bottom edge and up the sides.
Do this over a weekend in your garage - slow and easy. You only want to do this once - working with the 3M adhesive is not fun. You'll need some weights, duct tape, enamel reduce for cleanup....
My seal is out and my plastic channel at the rear window is brittle and cracked. I ordered this seal (993.545.925.00 - for 94 build date cars) and called around in the San Francisco Bay area to find a glass shop to glue it in for me. I received recommendations by Porsche dealerships and independent mechanics, but only two places want to tackle this, not having done this before:
Option 1: Glass Plus wants to use my seal and glue it back in for 125$.
Option 2: Hi-Tech Auto Glass wants to take out the window, use an aftermarket seal they have that replaces both the plastic channel and the outer seal in one and then glue the whole thing back in for 145$.
I have never heard of the second option. What's your thoughts, which way should I go?
Alfa - never heard of this option 2 in 16 years of reading and dealing with the crap rear window design. Post a link to this aftermarket “kit” if it exists
Go option 1 and have your shop use windshield adhesive to attach a new seal to the channel or what’s left of it. It’s a very tedious and finesse job and their price is way to cheap. Do not use silicone it can promote corrosion. You’re welcome to call me and I’ll walk you through this. 315-246-2173 NYS.
Given what I see in the pictures the best fix is to take the window out and fit a new one and a new outer seal. And when the window is out deal with the rust You will find!
Last edited by Railmaster.; 02-23-2018 at 10:32 AM.
Reason: Typo
Given what I see in the pictures the best fix is to take the window out and fit a new one and a new outer seal. And when the window is out deal with the rust You will find!
Those pictures aren't from my car. It appears as if the rear window is rust free.
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07-07-2008, 09:30 AM
