johzev

Okay this is my first post here so please be gentle. My 993 is a 97 c2 with 50,000 miles and bone stock. The clutch pedal has recently been sticking about an inch from the end of it's travel. By that point the clutch is engaged so operationally it's not a problem. I've just spent about an hour reading other posts and the diy at pcar. It's pretty clear that I should start with the first step of cleaning the pedal mechanism and lubing. My question is would it also be appropriate to also adjust the tension screw? This does not seem to be addressed in the diy. But it seems that increasing the tension would also improve the chance that the pedal would return all the way out. Thanks for your thoughts.

John Z.

Crimson Nape Racing

there's a tension screw? I cleaned the assembly and used silicon lube. it still sticks occasionally, I just pull it out with the edge of my foot.

Sumtoc

I cleaned, lubed and adjusted the tension screw a bit but it was never really fixed until I installed the updated lever as per this DIY:

http://p-car.com/diy/pedal/clutchlever.html

mike993c2s

Sticking? Can you describe it in more detail? Does it make noise? Mine was catching and making a clicking noise, which turns out to be a bad clutch cylinder. It's smooth now after the clutch cylinder was replaced.

Easy_Targa

Mike was that the master or slave cylinder which needed replacing? I have a similar click on my pedal sometimes.

johzev

Mike:

Mine simply hangs up before it hits the top of the travel about one inch from the end. There is no unsual noise. And like Bob I just use the edge of my foot to pull it the rest of the way. My car being a 97 I'm assuming it has the lastest lever?

John Z.

mike993c2s

It's the slave cylinder. I had my mechanic check it out, and it turns out to be the cylinder. Mine started out intermittently, then quickly became constant.

johzev

Had the independent shop I use replace master cylinder, slave cylinder, hose to slave cylinder and brake fluid. Used the ATE Blue product. No white stuff in the old fluid but it was quite thick. The master cylinder boot was torn and the hole at the end of the master cylinder rod was oval making for a sloppy fitting. We also verified that my car a 97 has the latest green colored plate in the pedal assembly. So at 50,000 miles I still have the original clutch and hope to get several more miles out of it. Cost $750.00. Parts $320, Labor $430.

John Z.

1pcarnut

Yes, you can adjust it for tension, there is a gap of 6mm on the tension screw IIR, someone correct me?

ljugete

I had mine lubed after Porsche dealer mechanic checked it out. No need to change out slave and I just pull it up with my foot when pedal sticks occasionally.

Adam5oh

My clutch doesn't hang up to the point where it needs to be pulled to the top, but it does have some roughness and makes some noise about halfway through the travel. I'm going to start with the cleaning and see if that helps any.

Robin 993DX

Roger,

The tension adjustment is there to adjust the tension for the transition. 1st half of the force applied on the clutch pedal is to push the spring on the pedal cluster, the other half is the pressure feed back from the pressure plate. The adjustment screw allows you to have a smooth transition so you don't feel a two tension level when you depress the pedal.

Most likely the hang up is caused by the clutch slave cylinder or the clutch pedal kinematics that needs to be upgraded.

Robin 993DX

If the noise is coming from the top of the transmission area then it is the clutch slave cylinder, which is a common failurer item on the 993.

TudoBem

Hello all,

In reference to this DIY, since I done everything else to my clutch and still have a bit of sticking at the end of the pedal return, I'm going to perform this next.

In the DIY, it says to clamp the hydraulic line to the master cylinder with vise grip pliers and disconnect. However, while I was wedged in the footwell of my 95' 993, it occured to me that one could disconnect the master cylinder from the pedal cluster while in the car, keeping the hydraulics intact and avoid any bleeding.

Can anyone confirm this, or is there something I'm not seeing?

Thanks for the help.

guards red

Hi, that's exactly what I did, but then mine's right hand drive ,ot sure about left hand drive. You have to fiddle with it a bit, but the pedal box can be removed leaving the master cylinder in place still connected to the lines. Makes the whole operation much easier.