Is the distributer rotor simply pulled out?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Is the distributer rotor simply pulled out?
Before I do damage I thought I would ask as there appears to be a significant resistance on attempting to remove the rotors.
Harry
Harry
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: West Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Pulls straight out, Harry.
Mine were frozen on as well - persistence will pay off. I actually found a little bit of rust or corrosion under it, and that will be the cause if it refusing to budge.
Mine were frozen on as well - persistence will pay off. I actually found a little bit of rust or corrosion under it, and that will be the cause if it refusing to budge.
#4
Burning Brakes
Leverage is your friend. Slow, steady pressure is better than banging or yanking. A few threads on this, some folks have used various pry-bar type arrangements to coax it out. I ran a little PB blaster down mine, used a socket set for leverage to pop out.
#5
Rennlist Member
Hey, do take into consideration that it is made of bakalite and that if it is stuck, as it usually is, when you pull
it out, it will sometimes leave very tiny brittles around. Do look for the reddish material not to be left IN the distributor.
it out, it will sometimes leave very tiny brittles around. Do look for the reddish material not to be left IN the distributor.
#6
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Be really carefull, its easy to dent the bottom of the distributor with the top of a pry bar, there are some pretty soft parts. That approach does work though. You can also use a slide hammer. For instance, if you have a large woodworking clamp you can use a clamp end to hook under the bottom of the distributor and then tap it upward. I don't have any pictures on hand to post, sorry.
The last one I did was really stuck, we ended up getting it out by having one person really yank on the distributor upwards (both hands), and the other tapping/wiggling the base. It was really hard and then **pop** it comes free.
Cheers,
Mike
The last one I did was really stuck, we ended up getting it out by having one person really yank on the distributor upwards (both hands), and the other tapping/wiggling the base. It was really hard and then **pop** it comes free.
Cheers,
Mike
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, actually I just needed to pull a little harder. No breakages.
Also changed the VRam distributor:
Removing some of the boots was tough. When unscrewing the caps I suggest you use a philips end attached to a ratchet and extension as you are less likely to strip the head which will be a major problem.
Harry
Also changed the VRam distributor:
Removing some of the boots was tough. When unscrewing the caps I suggest you use a philips end attached to a ratchet and extension as you are less likely to strip the head which will be a major problem.
Harry
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#8
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Indeed, this is what worked for me last year
Andreas
#9
Drifting
Here's the photo's of the tool I used to easily get the stubborn cap screws off with in seconds. It's a set of attachment bits that fit on a 1/4" drive socket. The bits slips over the frozen screw head and grips it tight when you back it off. Amazing & cheap as heck. PS: my engine is clean now!
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...or#post4649655
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...or#post4649655