RS man

Man,

I am struggling with the spark plug change. The lower ones on both sides were relatively easy, but removing the ventilator pipe was a challenge and I don't think p-car.com describes the removal adequately - I think the whole assembly needs to be removed and is much better for access and you can also see if the rubber connector for the varioram is squashed or not - mine was and I will need a new one. Now getting to the top right side spark plugs is a real BIATCH Gorillas put on the bolts holding the engine shroud and I am chewing up the hex bolt holding the lower arm of the muffler bracket. Nothing is easy on this car
I'm going to have a break.

Harry

993inNC

Just go S.....L....O.....W, take deep breaths, make sure everything is coated with rust penetrator, it'll be okay

RSRee

Yes, a familiar problem with exactly the same bolts. I destroyed the heads on both them while I struggled for a few hours with every trick in the book to get them out - and I am usually pretty good at that trade. Then, I discovered the Craftsman Bolt-out tool Set from Sears, and they were out in a few seconds!!! Especially if the heads are now mangled - and no longer round - the bolt-outs will be able to latch on to them more easily. There should be a hole in the bracket supporting the right muffler that will allow you to put a socket and extension on the bolt out and drag it out. Amazingly, after you break the bolt loose, you find that you can just about remove it with your fingers. Put a little anti-seize on them when you put the new ones in.

$19.99 at Sears I believe, and they deserve a special place in your toolbox - I'm a believer!

Good luck!

99three

Any pics of the ventilator pipe you are trying to remove and the tool from Sears. I will be doing this project soon and I want to be prepared.

RSRee

Sears Bolt Out tool:
Blurb:
Need to remove a damaged fastener? Craftsman can help with a range of well-made tools. Bolt-out kits consist of five to 13 sockets with spiral flute interiors that grip the damaged head of a bolt or nut and allow you to turn it off without much fuss. One 5-piece kit (52160) will remove eight different sizes of nuts and bolts (3/8-, 7/16-, 1/2-, 9/16- and 5/8 in., and 11-, 14- and 16mm). Each socket is made from a tough high-carbon steel so it can stand up to multiple removals. The kit costs about $20.

Snorkel pipe:


But go to the p-car DIY pages to get the whole picture: http://p-car.com/diy/sparkplug/

99three

Thanks.

RSRee

Sorry, Harry, I just realized you are in Bonnie Old Scotland - A fat lot of good will it do you looking for a Sears store there, but believe you can buy this Bolt Out set under the name of Irwin 10504634 Bolt-Grip Fastener Remover 5-piece base set. Look for it here: http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/...emoval%20Tools


Good luck mate.

Peter R.

Oh yeah...I remember that one...even posted on it here.

Peter R.

RS man

Rob,

That's very helpful, I'll give it a go.
99three the problematic one is the one pictured above although the ventilation tube I was talking about is the large assembled, black plastic parts sitting on the left side of the engine.

Harry

Peter R.

your local hardware store probably sells a spray on oil (like WD40) that also has an extreme cooling effect. Many brands have it in their range.

If you spray it on it cools the bolt to minus tempereture. The small thermal shock helps break the lock.

Peter R.

RS man

Do you guys know the part number for the bolt that attaches to the lower part of the right side bracket?

Harry

Peter R.

I used M8 x 20 stainless allen bolts with LOADS of copper grease.

Peter R.

RS man

The bolt I am having trouble with is the one above.

Harry

Peter R.

I don't see the bracket that holds the muffler...

The hex bolt you've loosened a few turns to take the bracket off is not supposed to come out completely.

I'm a bit lost now...

Sowwy.

Peter R.

RSRee

Sorry, Harry, I don't know the part number for that bolt (that was a pic from the p-car site, correct?) As it turned out, on my car that bolt was not even tightened up, so when I removed the upper bolt holding the muffler bracket, the bracket came right off because it is slotted on that bolt.

If I was absolutely unable to get it out, what I probably end up doing is to cut the bracket somewhere in the middle with a dremel tool and weld it back together - because I have MIG-welder, and replace the bracket the next time the engine is out. Cost about $50 USD I seem to recall.