964 / 993 Control Arm Bushings
#241
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#243
Racer
Still waiting for my paperwork also. I've done a few and it gets easier and easier the more I replace them.
John
John
#245
Nordschleife Master
#246
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We've done some really low mileage 993's who were already due, for example a 15k miles C2S. Amazing really.
#248
Drifting
The forward bushing from the factory is a cavity bushing -- they tear or rip as the center pivot tophat bushing is fixed to the rubber and the car - so with time, no so much mileage, they tear. Many times they will look fine until one flexes the bushing ultimately showing the cracks / tears.
We've done some really low mileage 993's who were already due, for example a 15k miles C2S. Amazing really.
We've done some really low mileage 993's who were already due, for example a 15k miles C2S. Amazing really.
#249
Stilll happy with mine as well, one year later. The shop that did the install warned me that the car might get some squeak/squeal after a while, especially given all the rain here, but I have not had any issue. (The shop didn't know the Walrod bushings specifically, so I think they made the caveat based on experience with other, similar kits.)
#250
for track or more sporting road use the 4 shock tops are often replaced w/ monoballs. These are fairly well protected from road debris and will generally live a long life there.
there 4 rear side mounts, these are often replaced w/ 4 solid aluminum bushes especially on lowered track cars though it is also a great choice for a street car. there are no maintainance issues w/ these either.
the others are all exposed to road debris and present a different sort of problem
the other 14 bushes are all on the inner or pivot end of the various suspension arms, as such they must
1) be free to rotate through their arcs
2) maintain their design alignment
3) transmit road forces to the chassis
the choices for these 16 bushes are;
1) monoballs - these are great on a track car, very rigid, very little friction, but will be subject to more deterioration from road debris than the other choices, more than most street owners will put up w/
2) polyurethane - the steel shafts rotate inside the p/u bush, they are almost as rigid as monoballs, but they do require lubrication as the p/u and steel have a lot of friction w/o lube. When the lube dries up they will squeek.
3) rubber - this is what the factory used. It functions by deformation not rotation so it doesn't squeek, doesn't require any maintainance and has no friction. The nit to pick is that the factory uses a softer material than many would like except on the RS models where they used a harder or sport rubber compound.
To me the harder RS rubber is the way to go for the except on a pure race car.
#253
Nothing against Chris product, I just wouldn't want p/u bushes on my car and feel that other, perhaps less knowledgeable people, ought to be aware of the alternatives before jumping on the RL lemming bandwagon. I've seen way too much of that.
#254
Which alternatives are better?