Wow - I did it...!
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Quick hints to an enjoyable spark plug change
This is the copy from an original post of mine a month or two ago:
Tune your garage radio to a station you like - you will listening to it for a while
P-car.com DIY instructions are very good - you will follow them to the 'tee'
If you have to break the job into two days, do the drivers side first - it is EASY
Two plug sockets rigs will be used, consider making up each of the two rigs and keeping them in your tool box for next time: one with a swivel fitting attached directly to the plug socket, then a 2-1/2" extension attached to the swivel. WRAP A snug LAYER OF DUCT TAPE AROUND THE ENTIRE ASSEMBLY. The other socket rig uses the same pieces, only the 2-1/2" extension is attached directly to a socket and the swivel attached to the extension - same goes for the duct tape. (yes you can get by with one setup, but you will need the first assembly to do the VERY LAST PLUG due to the orientation of frame members getting in the way, you will see)
You will need a 6mm allen socket to remove the engine tin on the passenger side.
Plan on going thru 3 pairs of Nitrile (blue) gloves - latex gloves will NOT hack it
Give your engine tin and tranny breather tube a good degreasing bath before reinstalling it
The time to change out your lower valve cover gaskets is the same time as plug-time if you can spare the extra time (day?) to do it.
Not a 'bad' job, just long when you do it on your back. Would be MUCH easier with the car on an overhead lift
Tune your garage radio to a station you like - you will listening to it for a while
P-car.com DIY instructions are very good - you will follow them to the 'tee'
If you have to break the job into two days, do the drivers side first - it is EASY
Two plug sockets rigs will be used, consider making up each of the two rigs and keeping them in your tool box for next time: one with a swivel fitting attached directly to the plug socket, then a 2-1/2" extension attached to the swivel. WRAP A snug LAYER OF DUCT TAPE AROUND THE ENTIRE ASSEMBLY. The other socket rig uses the same pieces, only the 2-1/2" extension is attached directly to a socket and the swivel attached to the extension - same goes for the duct tape. (yes you can get by with one setup, but you will need the first assembly to do the VERY LAST PLUG due to the orientation of frame members getting in the way, you will see)
You will need a 6mm allen socket to remove the engine tin on the passenger side.
Plan on going thru 3 pairs of Nitrile (blue) gloves - latex gloves will NOT hack it
Give your engine tin and tranny breather tube a good degreasing bath before reinstalling it
The time to change out your lower valve cover gaskets is the same time as plug-time if you can spare the extra time (day?) to do it.
Not a 'bad' job, just long when you do it on your back. Would be MUCH easier with the car on an overhead lift
Last edited by Marlon; 12-27-2007 at 08:51 AM. Reason: more lessons learned
#4
Marlon...way to go man! I hope you left the "engine cooker" off!
#7
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Join Date: Oct 2005
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wow here is a can or worms" am i the only one?
60K on my current plugs, no misses, runs strong to redline, daily driver, 19-22mpg depending on on how i feel..102k total ,miles, or has the performance so slowy degraded that i dont know it?
she idles as smooth now as when i got em put in. guess ill get thrown off the forum for this one.
in all seriousness, why change em if they are working well?
ds
60K on my current plugs, no misses, runs strong to redline, daily driver, 19-22mpg depending on on how i feel..102k total ,miles, or has the performance so slowy degraded that i dont know it?
she idles as smooth now as when i got em put in. guess ill get thrown off the forum for this one.
in all seriousness, why change em if they are working well?
ds
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#10
Race Car
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: San Jose Kalifornia Demokratische Republik
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David:
You're not the only one...
From what I've gathered from this forum, the main reason for changing them is to prevent them from getting stuck in there permanently! Having said that, I bought my set of plugs 2 years ago, and will be changing them the 1st weekend we have rain, around Thanksgiving, I suppose..
You're not the only one...
From what I've gathered from this forum, the main reason for changing them is to prevent them from getting stuck in there permanently! Having said that, I bought my set of plugs 2 years ago, and will be changing them the 1st weekend we have rain, around Thanksgiving, I suppose..
wow here is a can or worms" am i the only one?
60K on my current plugs, no misses, runs strong to redline, daily driver, 19-22mpg depending on on how i feel..102k total ,miles, or has the performance so slowy degraded that i dont know it?
she idles as smooth now as when i got em put in. guess ill get thrown off the forum for this one.
in all seriousness, why change em if they are working well?
ds
60K on my current plugs, no misses, runs strong to redline, daily driver, 19-22mpg depending on on how i feel..102k total ,miles, or has the performance so slowy degraded that i dont know it?
she idles as smooth now as when i got em put in. guess ill get thrown off the forum for this one.
in all seriousness, why change em if they are working well?
ds