JasonF

I was stuck in some traffic today and noticed that the temp gauge on my new-to-me 993 was spiking past 9 o'clock and then settled just above 10 o'clock (not good, I know). Once moving the temperature did settle down to the "normal" 194-degree range. After pulling into my garage I felt under the passenger-side bumper and noticed that the area was not warm at all.

The fuse for the oil cooler was blown, so that was replaced. Unfortunately, the oil temp spiked right back up after idling in my garage for a few minutes. I couldn't feel the oil cooler lines open up through the cooler.

I have read the oil cooler section on p-car.com and have a couple of questions on how to test the low and high speed fan operation:

1. When it says to "jump terminals 3(30) and 7(87c)" does that mean I remove the fuses for no. 3 terminal and 7 terminal and insert a wire in the slots?

2. What gauge wire have you used?


Jason

NP993

Your thermostat opening and allowing oil to flow to the front cooler, and whether the cooler fan is operating are two entirely separate matters.

You can tell whether there is flow to the cooler by simply putting your hand near it when the car is running hot. It'll be as hot as your oil temps (don't burn yourself).

If your fan doesn't come on, you need to pull the cooler fan relay and jumper the two appropriate terminals on the fuse panel, where the relay plugs in. When you pull the relay, look next to the male spade connectors for the identifying numbers (i.e. 3(30), etc) and then jumper the corresponding female terminals on the relay plug on the fuse panel. Crimp male spade connectors onto a wire (use something other than speaker wire) of the same size as the male spade connectors on the relay.

JasonF

Thanks Noah, the thermostat may not be opening at all either, so I'll have to investigate that.

Where do you get assorted male spade connectors? What type of wire have you used in the past? Thanks!

NP993

First things first you need to determine whether the front cooler is heating up. I would be absolutely shocked to hear that there is no oil flow to it.

Any auto parts store will have spade connectors and wire. Just use 14 or 16 gauge wire. Or better yet, go to Sears or someplace like that and get yourself a basic automotive wiring kit -- something that comes with a combo wire cutter/crimper/stripper tool, and an assortment of connectors. If you're going to DIY on your car, this is one of the basics (for electrical work, so is a test light or even better, a power probe).

No offense, but it sounds like this is very fresh territory for you -- it would make a lot of sense to have a friend who knows this stuff a little better give you a hand. You're going to drive yourself crazy trying to figure things out that someone else will be able to show you how to do, and explain the theory behind, in person. We've all been there, and all have to get our start somewhere.

Marlon

You can get them at any Auto Zone, etc. Just need a 8 - 10 inch length of light gage wire and just crimp little spade connectors on each end - instant test wire. If you have a volt meter you already have the capability to test the terminals with either your black or red test lead ends.

Marlon

I was typing when I should have been looking...

JasonF

Thanks guys...I hope I'm a quick learner!

While you were posting the replies, I unplugged the wire to force the fan to run on high constantly. When I went to turn on the ignition, the fuse for the oil cooler blew. I replaced it with another (30 amp) spare and that blew too. So I can't even get the fan to run on any speed since fuses keep blowing. What gives?

ppressle

Sounds like a bad oil cooler fan. Does it spin freely by hand? (just a guess)

Also, the low speed fan on the 993 doesn't come on until ~230 deg. That is just below the 10:00 line on the oil temp gauge. The low speed fan resistors commonly fail which prevents the low speed from running at all. If you get above 10:00 when idling, I would check the oil cooler resistor out. pita to replace.

Pete

JasonF

Thanks Pete. I removed the fender liner this evening in order to get to the oil cooler fan. Ignition was off and the fan blades were able to spin freely using just my hand to spin it. Does this mean that the fan motor is shot? Have you ever replaced it? I didn't get too far into it, but it doesn't seem like too tough of a job (I think!)

FWIW, on my drive today the temp gauge floated above 10 o'clock. A cause of concern for me since my old 993 never got above 9 o'clock.

Thanks in advance for your help,
Jason

AOW162435

Jason,
I think the oil cooler fan blades will spin freely if coaxed by hand. I seem to remember spinning mine while deep in thought about my oil cooler fan resistor change.....


Andreas

Marlon

If you have a short length of wire you can just strip 1/2" on each end - twist it, then tin the ends (hot wick some solder in the strands) and wa-la, you have a passable test lead. Then check your relay terminals per P-car.com.

mar

ppressle

No it can still be bad. Sometimes fans bearings will go south and the fan will be hard to turn.

If you are blowing fuses something is drawing too much current. The fan would be where I would start looking. Might want to hook up some test leads with an appropriate fuse and try to power just the fan.

Luckily, I have not had to mess with my fan, so caveat emptor

Pete

Dan V

Jason: regarding "the temp gauge floated above 10 o'clock. A cause of concern for me since my old 993 never got above 9 o'clock."

Are you driving in stop-n-go traffic? As other's have mentioned, the air-flow at 50+ MPH keeps the oil temp guage below "9 o'clock". If you're driving along at freeway speeds for 20 minutes and the guage is still at "10 o'clock", I'm afraid you have a more serious problem than a dead fan motor.

JasonF

Thanks Dan. I was stuck in traffic, but once I got up to 40mph the temp gauge went right back down at settled at 9 o'clock, pretty quickly I might add.

So does that mean that oil is finding its way to the cooler, but that the fan isn't kicking on to provide additional cooling?

I'm going to try the p-car jumper test later on and see what happens.

Monique

1. From full cold, start engine and wait til temp goes to about 8 oclock then rapidly drops to 7. This indicates the bypass valve to your il cooler has opened.
If this does not happen, you will have to go to the engine to RR the valve.

2. After engine is fully warm, (30 mins) you should feel heat on the top of the right front fender. If this is the case, then it might be the ol cooler fan but more likely the thermostat.

Good luck.