95C4VanIsle

I purchased a 95 993 a couple of months ago (currently has 38,000 miles) and on a spirited drive this weekend the CEL came on briefly. I am definetly not mechanically inclined but have researched here and found that the CEL indicated that I may have a faulty O2 sensor. I have found information on this site (with great pictures) about sensor replacement but most have been in regards to the 964's.

I looked up relacement of the sensor in Adrians book but it seems to be more specific to the turbo cars. Others on this forum suggest it is an easy DIY so I got under the car and found the O2 sensor but I can't seem to follow the wires into the engine compartment where they have to be disconnected.

Does anyone have pictures of where to disconnect the wires or any helpful hints about replacing the part? Other forums suggest to take off the engine tray for easier access to the sensor and warm the car up a bit to help loosen the sensor.

If I had a starting place I think I might be able to replace the sensor myself, although I am imtimidated about the project.

Thanks,

Bret

Rick Lee

Not sure about 95's, but on later 993's the plugs are near the motor mounts, in the far rear corner of each side. Very accessible and about the easiest DIY there is. The hardest part for me was parting with the $480 it cost me for four of them. I think you only need two.

quasr

Greetings. I recently replaced the sensor in my '95 993 and luckly the '95 only has one sensor. The sensor was just over $100.00 from Pelican parts. if you follow the wire from the bottom, with a friend up top, the process is easy. You will have to reattach a gromet through which the wires run. If you raise the rear, securing it on jack stands, and remove the rear engine pan, you will immediately see the sensor just North of the bumper (towards the front). I believe it was a four wire sensor but you should check to be sure. One of the easiest parts to change. best of luck with your new 993!

Don Plumley

You will not need the special "O2 sensor socket" - just cut the wires from the old sensor and use a normal socket. It might be on pretty tight, considering using some pb blaster on the threads the night before - then clean it off very well with brake cleaner before installing the new sensor. If you decide to use a little anti-seize on the new sensor (they sell one use disposable packets at the counter of the auto parts store), be extra super duper careful not to get it on the sensor. And don't drop the new sensor.

Otherwise, a very straight-forward DIY.

95C4VanIsle

Thanks guys, I will order the part tomorrow and try to get it done this weekend. I hope it is as easy as you say. It is really hard watching the car sit in the garage!

Marlon

To reiterate: do not get any lubricants, oil, anti-seize, cleaner, etc. on the new sensor element. It will be ruined. Frankly, I never used anti-seize when installing an O2 sensor. I did not want to take a chance that the compound heated up and migrated onto the element somehow.

95C4VanIsle

I have read that the new sensor comes with a little bit of lubricant from the auto parts store. That should be left intact, I assume, being careful not to disturb the end of the sensor itself.

Don, once I cut the wires to the sensor and remove it, will the remainder of the wire into the engine compartment be easy to follow and disconnect? Sorry to be so picky about this but I am still nervous about my first DIY. If it goes well it will open a new world of fun, certainly combined with frustration at times, in owning a Porsche .

Marlon, thanks for your input as well.

black ice

You don' t have to cut the wire from the sensor. Follow the wire pair from the sensor up through the engine tin, and then over to the right rear side of the engine bay. It's very easy to track. I think it terminates under a cover with some other wires. Disconnect it and pull it through, or cut it if it makes you feel better. Installation is simply the reverse.

Good luck.

WHB Porsche

Except for the cutting part, don't forget!

Black993

this is such an easy DIY. I did mine just about 3 weeks ago. Ordered from Pelican. I removed the old one with a crecent wrench and though tough to break loose it did finally give. I did not cut the wires since I used that wrench instead of a socket. Just follow the wire up and through the grommet. You will re-use the grommet (its cut to allow wire removal/insertion) and plug it back in. Less than an hour for a first time DIY on my car so you should be just fine. I was able to do this without jacking up the car as well.

95C4VanIsle

Thanks again folks, it is making more sense and my confidence is building. I ordered the part today-it will take a week for shipment to the dealer and then another day or so to get to me. I am actually looking forward to the job.

I do believe I will have to jack the car, bought jack and stands today. I am a little older, no specifics here, and focusing with my glasses is difficult close up and I keep hitting them on the underside of the car. I guess I should be glad of my SUV heigth, for now....

Thanks to all.

stace

I recently changed mine as well and what has been stated I agree with but the detail you want is regarding the connector for the sensor. it lies beneath a black plastic cover in the right side of the engine bay between you and the oil dipstick. that cover snaps off but is pretty snug in its location. takes a bit of wiggling to get it out of the way. next the connector has a sliding plastic bar that holds the two halves of the connector together. pull that bar out slightly (not all the way free from the connector) and the two parts will separate. connect the new sensor connector (the halves only fit one way so you can't do it wrong) and the plastic bar automatically locks the halves together and replace the plastic cover.

I had the most trouble with the plastic cover in the engine bay. the sensor itself and routing the wires through the grommet was the easy part.
there is also a metal frame in front of the actual sensor that protects the O2 sensor and mounts the engine tray (which should be left off all together and THAT is a whole other issue!!). that protecting frame should come off easily.

all in all not a tough job and a whole lot cheaper on the 95s!!!

good luck

95C4VanIsle

Thanks stace-I just went out and found the plastic shroud you are talking about and removed it. You are right it is not easy but I managed to remove it. It's dark in the garage now and I can't follow the wire right now but at least it is nice knowing where it ends up. It will make the job easier.

Quick question to all following this thread. The CEL light came on for a couple of seconds while I was still 100 miles from home and hasn't come back on again since. The car drives just fine for now. I actually took the car up to a local ski area to see if the change in elevation would affect driveability and had no untoward affects. My question now would be how far is it safe to drive the car? I just got email confirming my acceptance in the PCA. Our local Vancouver Island region is having a fundraiser for the Childrens Hospital this weekend (last year they raised $50,000 at the event). The event is being held in Victoria (125 miles each way) and they have a parade of Porsche's, Ferrarri's, Lambo's and other European cars and lots of other events. I have been asked to join them (the more the merrier) but I don't want to invite disaster. Any comments appreciated. Thanks again

stace

my tip off that my sensor needed replacing was an intermittent CEL once the engine was warm and I would slow to a stop and the engine would idle. I would get a cel that would stay on until I began moving again. it was this great site that clued me into changing my O2 sensor and that cured the problem. meanwhile I drove my car some time before deciding that was the cause.

I'm no expert but I think you'd be okay driving it awhile. if the O2 sensor has failed completely I have heard of damage to the catalytic converter on some cars. someone more expert than me should wade in here.

Love Vancouver Island by the way. what spectacular country

quasr

Only recommended jacking up the car to facilitate removing the engine tray. Mine is too low to remove it without raising it. Thanks.