Calling Loren----Doing SAI Flush
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Calling Loren----Doing SAI Flush
Ok I am doing my SAI flush at the moment......I have run Seafoam and Berrymans through the system and still have one port (middle on drivers side) not flowing, it drips a very little at a time so not completely clogged....would like to put something up the system from the exhaust port side......can I blast some Carb/brake cleaner in there? Anybody done that? I have pushed some wire in and I can tell there is a blockage there, may try something stiffer to brake it........and before everybody asks - yes I can stick the wire up all of the ports and it stops but the port in question stops shorter than the rest - say 2-3 inches rather than 3-4 inches for rest.
For those of you planning to do this.....its very easy.....once you get the airfilter box out.......GRrrrrrrr.......for somereason mine did not want to come out!!!
For those of you planning to do this.....its very easy.....once you get the airfilter box out.......GRrrrrrrr.......for somereason mine did not want to come out!!!
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I encountered the same issue and fashioned this tool to blast the chemicals up the port. This and a wire helped to break it free, but with the sharp angle of the port, you may have to let the chems soak for a while (overnight, in my case).
These are just standard brass line parts available at your local hardware. I drilled a small hole in rubber plug at the end and forced the tube through it. You'll need to bend/shape the tube to fit up in the port. Then, fill the tube with your chemical, position in the SAI port, press hard to hold in place and pull the trigger.
Lastly, be sure the intake & exhaust valves are closed on the clear cylinders. Otherwise, the pressure will blow through the open intake valve. Turning the crank solved that problem.
Hope this helps...
These are just standard brass line parts available at your local hardware. I drilled a small hole in rubber plug at the end and forced the tube through it. You'll need to bend/shape the tube to fit up in the port. Then, fill the tube with your chemical, position in the SAI port, press hard to hold in place and pull the trigger.
Lastly, be sure the intake & exhaust valves are closed on the clear cylinders. Otherwise, the pressure will blow through the open intake valve. Turning the crank solved that problem.
Hope this helps...
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Eric...that looks interesting........I will have a go.....the chemicals are sitting on it overnight, will get brass stuff tomorrow.....thanks for the idea..........
KKim.....I will have finished with your "SAI Kit" by the end of the weekend......do you want it back, or is somebody else waiting for it?? Let me know.
KKim.....I will have finished with your "SAI Kit" by the end of the weekend......do you want it back, or is somebody else waiting for it?? Let me know.
#5
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You can (and need to) be very creative with this job. I probably rigged up 5-6 different "tools" for this. Some worked and some didn't.
One to try for your blockage close to the exhaust port: Get a piece of flexible steel cable like the kind used to stake out saplings, maybe 1/8" diameter. Cut a piece about 8" long and chuck it up in your 3/8" drill. Thread it up the hole as far as it will go and spin away. In one direction (I forget which now) you will be turning with the braid and this will have little effect. Reverse the drill and the cable will unwind and grab that junk and grind/strip it out of there. I was shocked how well this worked on one of my ports. Not so well on the others with the blockage further up however.
Get 4-6 feet of this cable. It takes some trial and error to get the hang of it, and once you unwind the cable at 1200rpm you won't be putting that piece back up the hole!
Good luck, and don't give up on that last hole. You WILL get it.
Jason
One to try for your blockage close to the exhaust port: Get a piece of flexible steel cable like the kind used to stake out saplings, maybe 1/8" diameter. Cut a piece about 8" long and chuck it up in your 3/8" drill. Thread it up the hole as far as it will go and spin away. In one direction (I forget which now) you will be turning with the braid and this will have little effect. Reverse the drill and the cable will unwind and grab that junk and grind/strip it out of there. I was shocked how well this worked on one of my ports. Not so well on the others with the blockage further up however.
Get 4-6 feet of this cable. It takes some trial and error to get the hang of it, and once you unwind the cable at 1200rpm you won't be putting that piece back up the hole!
Good luck, and don't give up on that last hole. You WILL get it.
Jason
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David,
In the ever present Rennlist spirit of "paying it forward", please make it available to any Rennlist member on this board that would like to use it, if they care to go through this DIY.
I feel your pain as my car was laid up for about 2 weeks when I was trying to figure out what to do with the one stuck port I had. I wasn't creative as epj993 and waited out the plugged port, dumping solvent after solvent trying to get the port unplugged. I think it was a a combination of the chemicals and the endless poking and prodding with various wires and other devices that finally got that hemorrhoid to move and unplug the port. Ahhhh....
In the ever present Rennlist spirit of "paying it forward", please make it available to any Rennlist member on this board that would like to use it, if they care to go through this DIY.
I feel your pain as my car was laid up for about 2 weeks when I was trying to figure out what to do with the one stuck port I had. I wasn't creative as epj993 and waited out the plugged port, dumping solvent after solvent trying to get the port unplugged. I think it was a a combination of the chemicals and the endless poking and prodding with various wires and other devices that finally got that hemorrhoid to move and unplug the port. Ahhhh....
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I had the same problem with the #4 cylinder head port. I ended up jacking the car up until both front and rear were level. This ensured that the solvent was distributed evenly to all the ports in the cam tray. I then plugged up the ends of the ports with "Q-tips" of all things with a little extra cotton so as to slow down the solvent (Berrymans Chem tool) and let it set overnite. Came back the next day with compressed air; started at the top and blew down. I then used inconel safety wire double strand wound fairly tight with an angle cut across the top to act as an auger. Coming from the bottom-up I used a 1/4" pneumatic drill to clean out all the ports as far as the auger would go up... I also rigged up a nozzle similar to the others to blow up from the bottom and also utilized some old nylon tubing from and old oil pressure gauge installation kit an attached it to solvent can spray nozzles in order to push the solvent up from the bottom and into the ports...did the trick! everything is cleaned out and working fine with no CEL. Cheers!
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Thanks guys....returning to the garage this morning and will try all you ideas......lets hope I can get the worst of it done today, would like to clean up and rebuild tomorrow.
Kelly....once I have finished I will let other members know your kit is available.....thanks Kelly.
Kelly....once I have finished I will let other members know your kit is available.....thanks Kelly.
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Sounds like Jason and diet97993 used a very small version of a roto-rooter. The key seems to be the ability to go around the corner in the passage. It would be nice to have a small but strong flexible cable to do the job.
Knock on wood but I haven't had the CEL light and I drive it hard every time I am out so we will see. Monitoring the DIY just in case!
Cheers
Knock on wood but I haven't had the CEL light and I drive it hard every time I am out so we will see. Monitoring the DIY just in case!
Cheers
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How do I know when enough fluid dripping through is enough to say "Done - wrap it up and reinstall evrything?".........all ports are now producing fluid......reasonably clear fluid from all ports.....all produce a puff of air when pressurized......is that me done???
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I was satisfied when the fluid flowed freely & the presurized air blew hard. With the ports under pressure, place your finger over the SAI port. If you can feel the air blowing hard, I'd say the port is clear.
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Originally Posted by diet97993
Same here! If you can feel pressure or the audible sound from the air your done.
If you are putting in relatively high pressure (100psi) from the top, you should get major air flow and sound from the one port not blocked by the rubber plugs. If it is just bleeding out, and the system appears to be building any pressure at all, you are not quite there yet.
Jason