Garth S

No expert ... but 625 is the magic number describing the bearing you need: when followed by 'DS' or '2Z', the bearing has dust shields and/or grease shields on either side - which is the one to get. Most bearing suppliers have top quality ones in the $5 range. The oem used bearing in the top pic, left, is open to the water that migrates into the gear case along the drive cable - which is the common failure mode ... rust.

If you can barely hear it now, the bearing may still be good as new. Keep it that way by sealing the cable to the case with a wrap of stretch tape or a wipe of grease.

Cincy_Ron

Awesome, thanks for the info Garth. After further reading last night, and the PITA it sounds like to get the gear case open and then re-sealed I think I'll do just what you said, seal the cable to the case. I have a roll of coax-seal from back in my amateur radio days that I may try.

chris walrod

An O-ring placed onto the drive cable near the wing motor transmission can prevent water from running down the cable into the bearing. I believe this is what causes the bearings to go bad.

David Schiff

another method: i smeared anhydrous lanolin around the junction after shooting Kroil[ the OIL that Creeps} into the junction when parked on a driveway nose down so gravity helped the Kroil get in. the Lanolin intruded into the junction seems to keep the water out , very sticky stuff lanolin. maybee im deaf but barely hear it 105K miles.
.02, ds

Dudley

Finally changed my bearing today. I had the bearing on hand for over six months.
Used the P-car DIY. Thanks Robin.

Leander

I had the grinding noise for years. Until I squirted anti-corrosion oil onto every moving part a few weeks ago. Voila! It's been silent since. So much so that I've had to raise and lower it manually when the car's parked just to make sure it's still working (that noise was good for something!).

Dudley

Sure, find quick fix. That's no fun.