993C4Smontreal

thanks for the tips guys.....
a little question Geo, how do I "shorten on a battery".

If I remove the red brake light, there will be a brown wire and a black one. Do I connect each one to a -ve and a +ve of a battery. If so, which one is -ve, and what kind of battery?

Also, a littler question, when I am reinstalling the base in the rear window, there is a black rubber lining on the top side, does this tuck under the edge of the roof, or over the edge?

I opened up the red light beam, to expose the bulbs, they were all bright, so I assumed they are not burnt!

TIA again,
sam

martyp

FWIW I just fixed mine following the pcar instructions. The only hard part was threading the wires from the brake light assembly through the window sealant - I had to dig and remove sealant material with an ice pick and a needlenose to make the opening large enough. I did both wires since I had no continuity outside to inside on either. If you do this be sure to maintain the color-side (left, right, black, brown - I don't remember how mine was) orientation.

I took my light bar apart to examine the bulbs but could discern any bad bulbs - I'm not sure I'd be able to tell by just a visual. Sounds like driving the light directly is the best best.

Good luck - I think I saved my self $150 or so that I can apply towards the car in other areas.

geolab

Since we are dealing with 12volts Direct Current, no problem which wire you place on a (-) and the other wire on the (+).
try it on any car battery, one wire on each side.
If the bulbs light up, the problem is elsewhere.
When I don't have access to a battery, I use a 12 volts DC house transformer to test.
As for the rubber lining, introduce it diagonally under the edge of the roof, and then insert the windscreen glued bolts in the plastic frame holes.
the Z shaped springs should be oppositely placed under the plastic frame.

993C4Smontreal

Ok Geo,

we are advancing....I tested the light to a 6 volt battery, and it lit up.

I guess the problem is elsewhere....should I remove the rear speaker deck now and look for something there? someone mentioned that there are coonectors on the bottom of the rear windshield, and another said the brake lights meetthe 3rd BL here.....

what should I be looking for.

I even bought a multi-meter.....

sam

geolab

excellent, now 2 steps
try finding if the current is getting to the brown and black cables from the outside
and then from the inside.
From the outside, let a person with the keys on position 3, push the brake pedal.
place the multimeter on the cables outside and check if you get 12 volts, (or any volts)
If not, go in the car and check the cables just before they exit through the windscreen rubber joint.
If no voltage, we will move to the rear speaker deck.

993C4Smontreal

ok...did it!

from the outside....no voltage. from the inside, right at the top of the window on the connectors i get 11.1 volts.......

geolab

This is where geolab asks you to kindly click on the link here-under,
and mention ROBIN in your prayers

http://p-car.com/diy/glass/

993C4Smontreal

ok...this is a big DIY for my standards, but I will give it a shot. the 2 conductor plates on the inside, r they on the woindow or the ceiling of the car?

should I remove any lining inside the car (like the zipeered head liner)?

pray with me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

993C4Smontreal

i've studied the diy. fr the cross section diagram, it looks like the roof is a "Z" shape and comes under the window.....so how do I punch a hole all the way thru? or is this diagram mis-leading?

ChrisA

Thought I would offer my two cents, the information from p-car is an excellent source, and yes the cross section of the roof panel and glass is as described. I used a very sharp small diameter punch to create a small hole in the rubber weatherstrip, working from outside the car. Some patience is needed as the rubber is thick and fairly difficult to make progress. Once a hole is created the wires can be fed through fairly easily. Solder the connections inside the car and use new spade connectors on the light assembly. As an alternative I have seen instructions and diagrams either on this forum or Pelican for drilling a small hole just above the rear glass and rubber seal to pass the wires. This looks much easier and will not affect the structure or sealing (make sure hole is deburred and sealed with silicone) of the assembly. Good luck, you are making a great effort and in the end it will be great to see that red light in your rear view mirror.

993C4Smontreal

well...I went down to the garage, and started punching a whole into the weather sealant, after banging away at the ice pick...i thought "with my luck and skill, I can cause some major damage.....so I will have my mech. fix it, so he is responsible for any damage.....

atleast I narrowed down the problem for him, so I saved some labor charges......

thanks geo and gang for all the advise.....

I will try to do less complex DIY over the winter, where there is no "drilling" involved.