These are so awesome. I think this may be my early Christmas present.

Then again, there's this...

I now have this exact setup. MD-6XP and the lift table. And yes, turn the lift around. Very easy to lower the motor/trans and no need to remove the bumper.

Note that there is only about 3/4" clearance total for the trans mount between the rails of the lift, so you need to have the car very well aligned on the lift to make it all work out. Otherwise, you need to remove the trans mount.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...26fcb8b240.jpg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fb70ae99a5.jpg

Oh, and Raceramps are nice, lightweight and very portable....


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...285d27aaba.jpg

Slightly OT: Fitment for larger vehicles (X5, 535i, etc)
 

Bought the MD-6XP for my p-car and my wife's 328i, but the arms are too short for a 5-series or X5. The description on the BendPak site states light trucks and has a pic of an X3 being lifted, but not sure why it won't reach the jack points for 5-series or X5.

Has anyone had luck with larger vehicles? If so, what type? I called BendPak to ask if they have longer arms, and there they have arms that are 3" longer per arm. Not quite sure that will still reach...

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

-wolf

I've been using my newly acquired MD-6XP to work on a friend's 2010 Merc E350 and although positioning is important, it was not tricky.https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f62b3de982.jpg

Picknick table for that exceptionally heavy meal?

Could someone take some close up pictures of the safety height catches for me? I was wondering how safely the scissors function is locked in place.

I will be home around 7:00 eastern and can get a photo, if no one beats me to it.

Picking up a Bendpak MD-6XP tomorrow. Aside from ramps, are there any tips for using with 993? Positions? Arm placement on lift points?

Wow! Super easy. Picked it up this morning. Two of us slid it off the trailer, wheeled it into position and tested it out. I will be removing the race deck flooring tiles directly under the lift.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...32a7d7ee5e.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b707e9979e.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a6be1388a3.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a703dc2a1b.jpg

I had RaceDeck in one of my houses. Left those tiles out and used their trim around the edges. You will want some S/S sheets under the rollers. They will wear into the concrete.

That's my plan for tomorrow. Ran out of time today.

Had my mid-rise, not a Bend Pak, but an Atlas since 2010. I have eventually put every vehicle owned since up on it, some more challenging than others. Vehicle width can complicate things...so can length. I have other minor limitations, in that mine isn’t exactly centered in the shed. I recessed mine in the slab of the addition, immediately against the existing slab. Every vehicle has dedicated lift points, but there are certainly other locations that can support the vehicle weight. My daughters Ford Fusion, and my Cayenne GTS are tough to position properly.

Centering the vehicle over the lift is critical...I bought a set of the “fancy” pucks, that twist into the lift points for the 911, from a rennlist seller.Those and other hockey pucks make it easier. Certainly other inboard points in the rear, that give options. Finite location needed when it’s oil change time. The lift has proven indispensable for basic maintenance, detailing, and wheel swapping.

If I was to do it over again, I go one step up from the 6000# rated version. Last winter I had the silver GTS on it for the weekend, doing a heavy detail of it. Wheels off, dropped it as low as I could get it...the lift struggled to raise it. I had to slide the floor jack under one side, and give it a little help. I’ve had both GTS’s up on it a couple times since, and never had that problem again.

I have 1/4” aluminum plate under the rollers, almost 10 years in and they still look great. I did have the hydraulic cylinders rebuilt last year, as the seals in one failed. Cost just as much to have a local hydraulic shop rebuild them, than if I would have bought new replacements. Higher quality American made seals, and a claimed “lifetime” warranty was the sales pitch.

Only time will tell.

I wonder if you have a different arm setup? My MD-6XP arms are 24" long (assume = standard length?) and like Magdaddy, I've lifted plenty of large vehicles no problems. The only failure was an Audi A7 series - The arms were about 1"-2" too short to match the span of the lift points and I felt uncomfortable - so I went back to lying on the cold concrete which was uncomfortable in a different but safer way. 3" longer arms actually appeal though, in case I come across another A7 style issue....

This post confirmed I should go with the MD-6XP for an engine+trans drop on my 993 (thanks!). Now 1+year later I am just starting and although I've not lowered anything yet, I cannot see why it would not work. I did not want to cut anything out of the lift so installed it 180deg and the way I have the car positioned now, the trans should drop vertically down without any part of the lift interfering. Yes, the hydraulics are there and so there is an increased chance of hitting them but I'm happier this way (versus cutting the bar out).

Looks precarious - but I pulled, pushed, bounced and rocked - seems fine and no deflection of any lift arms / parts - it looks good. The car is supported no different than during a 'normal lift', same 4 points - it is just the balance of the lift itself that I have now changed over how I normally lift. I will monitor the weight distribution change as the engine lowers just in case.

I looked here for examples of how to position the lift arms for an engine+trans drop - so maybe the below will help others:

Cheers
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c15194d759.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...098f5bb97b.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...6aad191704.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e14038c7c3.jpg