the rear cross bar on the 6xp can be cut out without comprimising the strength of the lift when using it for these relatively small cars.
However, if you were going to use on a heavier, longer wheelbase car/truck, I would weld tabs on and bolt it back in place.

When using the lift on a 911, the rear arms are so close to the main center frame of the lift the thinner rear cross piece is not in play.

Hey Magdaddy, it's been awhile! I see you answered all your own questions. Looks like BendPak resurrected this thread. Anyway, I can't say enough about the lift, I still love it. I have done major services (timing belts, etc) on a Hyundai Elantra, Mitsu Montero Sport, Toy Tundra, and of course, my 993. I had no idea how much the price went up. I did pay $1499, but I picked it up myself. I guess the cost of steel has gone way up. Anyway, here are a couple more pics...

For the Bendpak LR-60P do you need to create another ramp in the front to get the 911 on without bottoming out? Know it is about 1" lower than the MD-6XP.

Any access to oil tank with the LR-60P lift?

Based on the modifications people are doing, I'm guessing this is not a solution.....but...

I notice on the MX-6P that there is open space between the rails on the end with the pistons, whereas that's not the case on the other end. If one turns the lift around, is it open enough to drop the engine/tranny combo?

I am thinking really hard about buying this lift, and just down to the details before I put the order in.

Thanks !!

I debated between the MX-6P and the MaxJax two years ago and I'm glad I went with the MaxJax. Much more flexible and takes less floor space.

IIRC some members have dropped their 993 motors using the Atlas TDR Lift, here is my write up:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ssor-lift.html

If I were to do it again I would go this route:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=228116

Recessing the lift is definitely an endeavor but well worth it IMO...Good Luck.

Man, the home lift is where its at. .. Santa this last X-mas brought a 2 post model. Home car lifts are the bomb...
Garage project is in a state of flux ... although when the jack-shaft garage door operator is finally in place, with the lift posts set,, I'll create a pictorial of the completed scheme.

Manufactured/Designed by the family owned MA located www.naautoequipment.com company. Product Code: U-2-C-7000 is the model Santa delivered. .. There are 2 dozen or so pictures of the similar/same #3 lift here: http://www.naautoequipment.com/Unive...t-car-lift.htm

As a full lift height yet semi-portable design, once set-up outside on a dedicated area this will make easy work of the Spring Chassis Cleaning chore; Rocky mountain winter blizzards take a toll on daily driver undercarriages...
Drive-line undercarriage de-greasing with a high pressure power-wash will be much more effective - piece of cake!

I'm about to pull the trigger on a MD-6XP and had exactly the same question - searched but did not see anyone confirming. Seems such a simple fix (rather than cutting out a bar) that there must be an issue with turning 180deg.....

Sadly, no lateral space for MaxJax. And cannot do a clean recessed install because I need to have my car at an angle in the garage at times so to be able to fit my DD in the next bay over.

So, all that said, I get the impression it is not an issue to drop an engine with the Bendpak lift without modification, as I was asking originally. True?

TIA

Top = Usual orientation - with the red arrow pointing to the cross beam that some have cut out.
Bottom = Lift rotated 180deg orientation - no cross beam under trans that needs cutting out. But what other negative impact does this orientation have that stops people doing it instead of cutting.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...12d32ee08b.jpg

Cheers.

Just a guess, but would the hydraulic cylinders take up the floor space needed to place the jack or lift table in position under the lump?

Beautiful work LimeyBoy. That's exactly my question.

Now, not that anyone has specifically pointed to it thus far, but, on the rennsportkc page referenced above it does have the following in the comments section way down on the page:

QUESTION:
"Sorry if I missed this… The lift looks like it doesn’t have a bar on the front side. If you parked with the engine on that side, would the geometry of the lift prevent you from fitting a lift for the engine/tranny underneath because the hydraulic pistons would get in the way?

If there’s enough clearance (lowering the engine/tranny out of the car) on that side, I figured it might be easier to rig a setup to clear the hydraulic pistons instead of modifying the lift."

REPONSE:
"You are correct about the geometry issue. Unfortunately due to the design of the hydraulics and the legs at the front end of the lift, there is no clearance to drop an engine out that side. That would have been too easy :)"

You can definitely drop the motor and trans using this lift. I have done it numerous times in the 911's and also in a testarossa... no problems...

The only downside to this lift is that it requires a 2 inch ramp to fit under our cars...

Otherwise, best $1500 you can spend...

This lift is interesting (or scary), but the price is up there:

https://www.naautoequipment.com/Atla...h-psp-6000.htm