zffnhsn

For what it's worth, I was taught "back in the day" the lower the viscosity the higher the volume, which might account for 0W30 formula racing oils. The thinking is low viscosity oil gets past the bearing surfaces faster keeping temperatures lower and cleaning more effectively. I've used 5W, 10W & 5W(x) oils in my performance cars all of my adult life.

I was introduced to Mobil1 working as a german car mechanic in arctic Alaska during the pipeline project. At the time the oil company rep provided literature claiming it was a 25,000 mile (or once a year) per oil change product. It cost a great deal more than mineral oil, but the annual costs were lower due to the long oil change interval. Thus, beginning in the mid-seventies, after I broke in a new car (5,000 miles) or immediately upon purchasing a used car, I filled the crankcases with Mobil1, changed the filters in six months, changed the oil once a year. That's it. One oil change per year.

My family and me have owned quite a few cars in the thirty years since adopting this service program, we've never lost an engine. Some have run over 250K miles with just routine maintenance and the occasional water pump, et al. I took one engine apart at +80K due to neglecting a badly leaking injector valve. The oil pump looked new. The crank journals looked new. The rod bearings looked new. A plasti-guaged test confirmed how little wear was on the rods. I was very impressed. I still employ the Mobil1 annual oil change program today with my two P cars.

geolab

Answer to 944CS


We are talking about full synthetic oils, and you are citing Base (mineral) oils.
the difference is like the earth and the moon.
To widden the viscosity spread in base oils, they put additives or Viscosity Improvers VI. More additives mean more sludge risk.
Thus less viscosity spread in Base oils, is cleaner and less additives, of course.

But synthetic, it's different
and in the article you are citing, he explains that synthetic is the oposite.
anyway...

_____________________________

'97 carrera S 100 % original

944CS

ok i see now, it wasn't so clear that the article was only about mineral based oils

Redline also is an oil company that uses poly ester-based products in it's synthetic engine oils

ceboyd

o.k. now my head is spinning and I'm even more confused..


So, do I understand correctly that 0w40 is proven better for my 993 even in DE use? ...and am I understanding correctly that Ester base like amsoil, redline, royal purple is my best option for least wear or possible sludge?

...and do I understand that MORE detergents are BAD for my DE car?


someone help explain in simpler terms for me to understand !

JasonAndreas

It will be almost impossible for you to change the oil in a 993 without mixing the new with the old. There is always 2-3 quarts of oil left in the system (almost 25%) after draining the crankcase and the tank.

ceboyd

alrighty then..

Arrwin

To my extreme surprise, I found red top 15w-50! They have boxes of it in the 5 quart bottles for $18.99. I stumbled on it at this store called Wholesale Liquidators (kind of like a Job Lot/Odd Lot type store) about 5 min. from my house. They usually sell junk (esp. in the car section), so this was the last place I would think they carry Mobil 1, let alone 15w-50! Anyway, I think their business model is to buy discontinued or overstocked merchandise at a discount and then sell to the public. I guess the red-top 15w-50 fell into this category. They also had the gold top 15w-50 @ $5.29 which is pretty good as well. But I was extremely surprised that they had the red top.

For anyone that lives near Queens, NY I will let you know where to find it. Needless to say, I will be buying a few cases.

ceboyd

wow.. time for me to check out the big lot and other liquidator places around here...

sacman

I've been using FCP Euro for their lifetime warranty on oil on my BMW M3 and found this "Porsche branded" oil and it's pretty interesting.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...cing-oil-02806

QN