DanL993

nine9six is right. I got the spanner online, then had to have it machined to fit....that'll be $50 please!!

Sandia man

Isn't the thin 27mm crowfoot still necessary to install the new valve?

JB 911

Nice catch. Plus, as much as I love my air chisel, I'd be nervous to use it in that tight spot with all the other lines around. I bought the modified crowfoot from Pelican, works well.

Also, don't forget anti seize and a washer when reinstalling. It turned out to be the same washer as the engine oil nut washer. I did just a snug past handtight.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ve-washer.html

JB 911

You should be able to just hold it up against the side of a grinding wheel and do it yourself in a couple of minutes for someone not wanting to buy the Pelican one, but there is a chance some crowsfeet start out bulkier overall than others and still may not work. It is tight, and takes some wiggling, even with the Pelican one.

nine9six

As an ex-machinist, that is a HUGE safety no-no! Grinding wheels should ONLY be used on the surface facing the operator! They are not designed for side loading and one exploding wheel and the ensuing shrapnel should convince you of this warning.

Take the crows foot to a machine shop and have properly Blanchard or surface ground to your desired thickness.

boman993

^^^ This x 993. I ended up buying the modified crow's foot from Pelican since I knew this would be a service that I will be performing again in the future. I'm hoping that I only had to struggle with the SAI valve removal once. The replacement has been tightened a pinch past handtight and I put some copper anti seize on the threads. My plan is to replace it every 15K miles or every other season..

vincer77

I also installed it hand tight.

nine9six

Agreed! I wouldn't think of installing a new valve without anti seize compound on the threads, but only a light coat to assist in subsequent removal and replacement.