lenticular

I have an RS clutch with LWF in '95 993 cab. Over the last couple of months, the clutch pedal has started to feel, well, different. Maybe it is a little easier to push, or engages lower to the floor than before. It also feels a little more 'binary', as though it is either engaged or not, where before I could feel more of a transition.

It still shifts gears fine. The pedal travel is fine, and it doesn't feel like it is slipping a bit. Normally, I would try bleeding it to see what difference that makes, but that just is not going to happen between this afternoon and tomorrow morning's AX.

I'm thinking that I'll AX tomorrow, pay attention to any changes in pedal feel or clutch performance, then bleed it next week.

Any ideas on this? I have to say that if the clutch felt like this when I first bought the car, I wouldn't have thought a thing of it. Also, I've been messing around with the clutch on a '94 Tercel that feels like stepping on air- almost zero resistance. That might be throwing me off in the Porsche. Still, if something seems odd...

Thanks,
John

lenticular

So, I reached down an pulled the clutch pedal up towards me. It popped out another inch or two, level with the other pedals, and now seems to act normally. Haven't seen that before. I guess it's time to think about the kinematic lever.

-john

stevedowd911

I would take off the floor board and shoot some lubricant on the shafts attached to the clutch. I had the same problem when I picked up my 993, the car hadn't been used a lot before I bought it. I drove all the way back from the Bay Area to Seattle with no cruise control, as the clutch pedal hadn't come all the way back up. I'm pretty tall, so I couldn't see the pedal when driving and it was real dark/cold when I stopped on the way back, so it wasn't until I had it back in my shop that I could figure out what was wrong. I just used some Wurth HSS200, which has helped out a bunch.

I also did flush the clutch fluid recently (a couple of times due to getting air in, but that's another story!), and it made the clutch much easier to work and more consistent that it had been before. A bunch of cr*p came out, so I'm sure it hadn't been looked at for a while.

MonkeyBoy

Like Steve, my clutch was a bit strange feeling when I bought mine (only 3K miles ago). I lubed the clutch linkages and it's been great since.

Sooner

John, I am about to replace the clutch & Flywheel in my '95. You have the LWF correct? Any stalling issues? What's it like in traffic?

lenticular

Hi Brian-

I did have occasional stalling problems at first. I would happen when I least expected it, maybe once or twice a month. As time passed, stalls became more frequent, happening maybe once or twice a week. That was so annoying that I decided to do the ISV cleanout as explained on p-car. I found that the ISV was so carboned that it would not open and close freely. After cleaning it, it opened and shut it a smooth, silky way. That procedure completely ended the stalling for me. I expect to do a LWF cleanout periodically, but it is easy and no big deal.

The LWF is great, and you get used to it quickly. If you do much rev-matching or heel-and-toe in traffic, it takes some adjustment in the timing and duration of the throttle blip. In the end, it is more fun, since the engine is more responsive. There is a rattling sound from time to time at low rpms, but I enjoy it. It's like a sign that you are driving a performance car.

I'm glad I went with the LWF/RS clutch, and would do so again.

Thanks,
John

ps. If you autocross at all, the LWF may change your class. I AX with PCA in Zone 8, and a recent rule change held that a car with an LWF could not be SS (showroom stock), although having one did not add extra points.

Sooner

Thanks for the info. I had a chat w/ Steve W. this morning & I am just about convinced to go the LWF route. I am still considering the Andial Mid weight version though.