Last two wiring/alarm questions....
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Last two wiring/alarm questions....
...i hope...
First, the history. I am attempting to install a Crime Guard 754i4 alarm in my 4/95 993 carrera. I had trouble finding on my wiring diagrams which was the starter wire behind the ignition switch, which needs to be wired with a relay to kill it when the alarm is on or triggered. While removing the ignition switch harness I inadvertently pulled then entire ignition switch apart (the electrical plug pulled out the electrical "male" pins and assembly from the metal cup. I thought I got it all back together, but I was wrong. I decided to put everything back together before going further to be sure I was on the right track. Couldn't get current to the starter relay. On the advice of Steve (Thanks!) I had a new ignition switch overnighted and sure enough, it works.
I now have the door lock/unlock circuits wired in and working in the harness under the passenger seat (Thanks Clive, Rainmn, et al!). Power is hooked up. Grounds are in. (Battery is out!) Valet switch is is. Leds are out (using the factory units).
Two remaining questions. I HAVE ordered a legitimate wiring diagram (workshopmanuals.com), but "its in the mail" so I'm hoping I can get a little more help in the meantime...
Question 1:
I am going to hook into the left and right parking lights in the black-plugged harness under the pass seat. The alarm only has one output to flash the lights, so I'm going to wire in a diode for each of the left and right circuits into that flasher output from the alarm. Can anyone confirm which 2 wires in that black-plugged harness under the passenger seat are for the left and right parking lights?
Question 2:
Is there a wire in that black or yellow-plugged harness which switches the interior dome lights on? The alarm wants a "dome light power+" lead to trigger the alarm when either of the doors is opened.
OK, I'm a liar. Questions #3:
What's the factory location for the siren mounting? Any other ideas/locations? Manual says put it in the engine bay, but I want to keep things free back there for maintenance..
I WILL be doing this in a DIY writeup, as well as the xequipped HID lights. Hope to fininsh tonight/tomorrow.
Several very gracious rennlisters have helped me with pictures and answers, Thanks to all!
john
First, the history. I am attempting to install a Crime Guard 754i4 alarm in my 4/95 993 carrera. I had trouble finding on my wiring diagrams which was the starter wire behind the ignition switch, which needs to be wired with a relay to kill it when the alarm is on or triggered. While removing the ignition switch harness I inadvertently pulled then entire ignition switch apart (the electrical plug pulled out the electrical "male" pins and assembly from the metal cup. I thought I got it all back together, but I was wrong. I decided to put everything back together before going further to be sure I was on the right track. Couldn't get current to the starter relay. On the advice of Steve (Thanks!) I had a new ignition switch overnighted and sure enough, it works.
I now have the door lock/unlock circuits wired in and working in the harness under the passenger seat (Thanks Clive, Rainmn, et al!). Power is hooked up. Grounds are in. (Battery is out!) Valet switch is is. Leds are out (using the factory units).
Two remaining questions. I HAVE ordered a legitimate wiring diagram (workshopmanuals.com), but "its in the mail" so I'm hoping I can get a little more help in the meantime...
Question 1:
I am going to hook into the left and right parking lights in the black-plugged harness under the pass seat. The alarm only has one output to flash the lights, so I'm going to wire in a diode for each of the left and right circuits into that flasher output from the alarm. Can anyone confirm which 2 wires in that black-plugged harness under the passenger seat are for the left and right parking lights?
Question 2:
Is there a wire in that black or yellow-plugged harness which switches the interior dome lights on? The alarm wants a "dome light power+" lead to trigger the alarm when either of the doors is opened.
OK, I'm a liar. Questions #3:
What's the factory location for the siren mounting? Any other ideas/locations? Manual says put it in the engine bay, but I want to keep things free back there for maintenance..
I WILL be doing this in a DIY writeup, as well as the xequipped HID lights. Hope to fininsh tonight/tomorrow.
Several very gracious rennlisters have helped me with pictures and answers, Thanks to all!
john
#2
Instructor
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
John, I'll tackle 1 & 2. I didn't put a siren in my car, so can't help with 3.
1. The two wires, in my car, were black w/ white & black w/ green. Be aware that they are the turn signals, not the parkng lights, if you are testing them with a test light or a meter. (Remember, the band on the diode faces the car wiring.)
2. Your car won't have a dome light + lead anywhere, since these cars are negative switched. The door trigger wire in that black harness is brown w/ white (Again, in my car, since there seem to be some differences among them.) That brown w/ white wire will go to ground when either door is open, and will trigger your alarm. If your alarm has two different wires for this function, one for positive doors and one negative, the positive wire doesn't get hooked up. (It's for Fords.) Some alarms have two wires, some have one and you program it to what type of door switching the car uses.
1. The two wires, in my car, were black w/ white & black w/ green. Be aware that they are the turn signals, not the parkng lights, if you are testing them with a test light or a meter. (Remember, the band on the diode faces the car wiring.)
2. Your car won't have a dome light + lead anywhere, since these cars are negative switched. The door trigger wire in that black harness is brown w/ white (Again, in my car, since there seem to be some differences among them.) That brown w/ white wire will go to ground when either door is open, and will trigger your alarm. If your alarm has two different wires for this function, one for positive doors and one negative, the positive wire doesn't get hooked up. (It's for Fords.) Some alarms have two wires, some have one and you program it to what type of door switching the car uses.
#3
John,
1) Confirmed. Bk/Wt and BK/Gn in the black (big) connector
2) Br/Wt *BUT* use the one in the yellow connector. That's the door pin triggers. If you use the brown/white from the black connector you'll have the alarm tigger held for 30 seconds (the timed domelight output) your alarm will remain active thoughout your frantic effort in trying to disarm it with the remote!
3) Factory alarm horn is mounted somehere up under the front of the left rear wheelwell. (i.e. just behind the drivers door) If you set off the factory alarm you'll be able to locate it! Not seen it myself, just heard it... Probably need to remove the rear wheel then the liners to get at it.
Good luck, sounds like it's coming together!
FWIW... the "shop" manuals that come on pdf are no better than what you might already have seen... I'd truly recommend scoping out Ebay and the "paper" ones (~ about $300) for legit ones... difference is night and day... they seem to come up fairly regularly.
Clive.
1) Confirmed. Bk/Wt and BK/Gn in the black (big) connector
2) Br/Wt *BUT* use the one in the yellow connector. That's the door pin triggers. If you use the brown/white from the black connector you'll have the alarm tigger held for 30 seconds (the timed domelight output) your alarm will remain active thoughout your frantic effort in trying to disarm it with the remote!
3) Factory alarm horn is mounted somehere up under the front of the left rear wheelwell. (i.e. just behind the drivers door) If you set off the factory alarm you'll be able to locate it! Not seen it myself, just heard it... Probably need to remove the rear wheel then the liners to get at it.
Good luck, sounds like it's coming together!
FWIW... the "shop" manuals that come on pdf are no better than what you might already have seen... I'd truly recommend scoping out Ebay and the "paper" ones (~ about $300) for legit ones... difference is night and day... they seem to come up fairly regularly.
Clive.
#4
Instructor
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Grmnxtc, thanks for the clarification on the door trigger lead. I didn't even use or need this, as I was only adding remote keyless to the factory system...not an alarm. I just did a little extra testing while I was in there.
#6
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
John, I just managed to get my head up above the surface for a few hours. Let me know what questions still remain. I have a paper copy of schematics, althought there are two different schematics and it's unlear when in '95 the cutoff occured.
#7
Mike,
Assume you are refering to Model 95 and Model 95/2?
In which case the 95/2 starts from VINS WP0 AA2 99 1SS3 21454 and WP0 CA2 99 8SS3 41225 according to the info I have.
Clive.
Assume you are refering to Model 95 and Model 95/2?
In which case the 95/2 starts from VINS WP0 AA2 99 1SS3 21454 and WP0 CA2 99 8SS3 41225 according to the info I have.
Clive.
Trending Topics
#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Clive, thanks!
I think that there are either som inacuracies in the diagrams for later cars, or, paehaps, there were several rounds of changes. We've found previously that later cars do not have all their stuff diagramed properly.
Mine is a Feb '94 car and the very early ones seem to have proper schematics.
I think that there are either som inacuracies in the diagrams for later cars, or, paehaps, there were several rounds of changes. We've found previously that later cars do not have all their stuff diagramed properly.
Mine is a Feb '94 car and the very early ones seem to have proper schematics.
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
Alright, everything is hooked up and I took a lot of pictures.
The siren ended up behind the airbox. There are two bolts, one already serving as a ground, the exact right distance apart. I was looking for a spot that would create an unbearably loud noise both inside and outside the car. I needed only drill one 1/4 inch hole in the rear firewall behind the seats. Antenna is behind the rear seats coupled to the xm radio antenna on the back deck.
The radar proximity sensor is behind the e-brake. The glass/air pressure sensor is on the body under the front seats, as is the alarm CPU and the microphone. Factory LEDs hooked up. Valet button is hidden.
I don't have the energy to test it right now...will try in the morning. Wife wants to go to the x-games motocross show in Bridgeport...cool! Right now its Sierra Nevada-time.
Pics forthcoming. I hope everything works!
Next...HID, then the clutch slave...hopefully all done by EOD Monday.
The siren ended up behind the airbox. There are two bolts, one already serving as a ground, the exact right distance apart. I was looking for a spot that would create an unbearably loud noise both inside and outside the car. I needed only drill one 1/4 inch hole in the rear firewall behind the seats. Antenna is behind the rear seats coupled to the xm radio antenna on the back deck.
The radar proximity sensor is behind the e-brake. The glass/air pressure sensor is on the body under the front seats, as is the alarm CPU and the microphone. Factory LEDs hooked up. Valet button is hidden.
I don't have the energy to test it right now...will try in the morning. Wife wants to go to the x-games motocross show in Bridgeport...cool! Right now its Sierra Nevada-time.
Pics forthcoming. I hope everything works!
Next...HID, then the clutch slave...hopefully all done by EOD Monday.
#10
Look forward to the pictures....and glad it wasn't too painful an expereince...
I know I get so involved in projects that I loose all sense of time.
hmmm... Sierra Nevada.... now there's a good idea
Clive.
I know I get so involved in projects that I loose all sense of time.
hmmm... Sierra Nevada.... now there's a good idea
Clive.