BobbyT

After reading lots of info on Robin Sun's site, and searching this forum to gather info, I replaced these two resistors this evening. I decided to try Agro's approach, and leave the old resistors in place. This makes the procedure very easy, because everything is done through the headlight opening.

After removing the headlight, locate and unplug the wire connector to the resistor. Then the new resistor can just be plugged in, and mounted in a new location. I used the second fender bolt from the front on each side. Remove the stock bolt, and drill out the hole to 1/4 inch. Replace the bolt with a 6X35mm. I used an separate nut and wave washer to secure the bolt itself, and then screwed the resister onto the protruding end of the bolt with an aircraft locking nut. It doesn't need to be tight, just secure.

This whole thing took about an hour for both sides, but most of the time was spent deciding how/where to mount the new resistor. The resistors could be replaced now in about ten minutes.

It's nice to have both fans, oil cooler and AC condenser, operating at two speeds as they should.

Thanks to all who posted their info on this topic.

BobbyT

Pete Lech

Sounds like a great idea, and certainly a lot easier than removing the old resistors.

jkuniverse

Great idea BobbyT! I wasn't sure if I wanted to go through the 'pain' to replace the old ballast resistor(s)...but I like this method. This will be my next DIY. Thanks for the detailed info.

graham_mitchell

when you choose a new location, bear in mind that they might get very hot

Tom W

Hmm, Jauder and I were think about AC resistors yesterday when his disintigrated during the oil cooler install. I guess I've been luck as all of mine are still fine.

Toga

I changed my oil cooler resistor last week. I took me my all afternoon...but this was my first "real" DIY.
The idea to place it in a more accessible place crossed my mind, but taking into account that, like Graham said, that stuff is becoming very hot when in use , I couldn't decide where to place it. I finally put it back at the original place.
Where did you place it BobbyT? Could you take a picture of it?

Thanks!

BobbyT

I'll take some pictures this afternoon. The heat was certainly a consideration. The new location stands the resister off from the body of the car a couple of mm, which should allow heat to disippate without damaging the body.

BobbyT

Here are a couple of shots showing where I mounted these resistors, working from the headlight opening. It is the same on either side. I used the second fender bolt from the front on each side. Just screw the bolt out, working from the boot, and enlarge the bolt hole slightly--1/4 inch is perfect. Replace the fender bolt with a 6 X 30mm bolt, wave washer, and nut, but don't put the resistor on yet. Tighten this down snugly to hold the fender. Now put a nut (I used a Nylok nut so it won't come loose, and doesn't need to be very tight) in the recess on the resistor, and spin the resistor on to the bolt hand-tight. Connect the resistor wiring plug, and replace the headlight. All done in just a few minutes.

Here is a shot of the resistor in its new location:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...l/resistor.jpg

This is the new mounting bolt from inside the boot:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/btindel/bolt.jpg

BobbyT

jkuniverse

BobbyT,
I just looked into the passenger side headlight opening and couldn't locate the wire connector for the resistor (oil). Where should I look? Do I unplug it from underneath? I haven't checked the A/C side yet. Thanks.

STLPCA

The oil & AC fan resistors get extremely hot in use which is the primary cause of their relatively short service life, despite the designed oem mounting in a high air flow location. It's not unusual for them to literally disintegrate from the heat. The "upgraded" part from Porsche includes a heat sink to, presumably, increase heat conduction away from the resistor and into the metal mounting location.

There have been several prior threads discussing easier to reach mounting locations above the fender liners which (1) do not require drilling which invites rust, (2) keep the resistors in the intended open air flow through the fender, (3) mount flush to the body to get the benefit of the heat sink & (4) have, so far, stood the test of time. My relocated oil fan resistor shows no signs of deterioration after 2+ ys.

IMO mounting the resistor "off from the body of the car a couple of mm" largely defeats the purpose of the heat sink. Likewise, the confined, very low air flow headlight bucket area is a poor environment for a component killed by high heat. However, only time will tell.

Here's one of the several prior threads.

BobbyT

Hi Jason,
You can't easily see the connector for the oil cooler resistor. If you use an inspection mirror, and look inboard of the oil lines, following the wire, you will find the connector. I was able to disconnect mine by gently pulling on the wire.

BobbyT

Rick Lee

I did this too and mounted mine onto a house door striker plate and mounted that to some other prtruding bolt. Doesn't look great, but it's invisible and works fine. Next time I have to replace it will take me a few minutes. But replacing the plastic fender well liner was a real nightmare.

nman413

I dont see how you could replace the AC side without taking the wheel liner off. It's not like it is reachable through the headlight like the oil cooler resistor.

Toga

If your oil cooler resistor is still at the standard place, here are some pictures I did during my DIY:

BobbyT

For Jauder,
If you just leave the old resistor in place, you can install the new through the headlight opening. You don't need to access the old resistor, just the plug. Unplug the old resistor from the harness, plug in the new one, and mount the new resistor in a location of your choosing. All done in just a few minutes.

BobbyT