AC Fan Resistor Replacement - a PITA (long)
07-22-2002, 01:09 AM
#1
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AC Fan Resistor Replacement - a PITA (long)
By following the <a href="http://p-car.com/diy/fan/#Troubleshooting" target="_blank">diagnostic steps from p-car.com, </a>I determined that both my AC condenser & oil cooler fan series resistors were defective.
I planned to replace both today, but due to unexpected complications & 100F temps only did the AC side. The job is technically easy (maybe a 3 on a 10 pt scale), but the location of the resistor makes it a frustrating, cursing, sweaty, pita project.
It is not necessary to remove the bumper to get to the AC resistor & unless the Turbo nose & front end internals are far different than my Carrera, it wouldn't help anyway. It is only necessary to remove the front most fender liner.
Tools needed:
- #2 phillips screwdriver.
- 4mm hex wrench (a 1/4 inch drive fine tooth ratchet wrench w/4mm shortened shank hex socket makes this project much easier - see below).
- very small hands with very long fingers.
- infinite patience.
The steps are:
1. Jack up the front end, secure w/jack stand & remove the wheel.
2. Remove the front section of the fender liner - rather intuitive after removing 7 or so screws.
3. Disconnect the resistor plug electrical connection (just pulls apart) after pulling the connector from the plastic clips on the inside fender wall.
4. The resistor is located at the top of the interior side of the condenser/cooler. It is secured with one (1) 4mm hex head (internal - "allen") screw through the center of the resistor.
5. Now comes the pita part:
A. the screw is not visible & must be removed & re-installed by feel - it's difficult to get the hex wrench mated to the screw,
B. the space is so limited that my avg size hand could barely fit, precluding turning the screw by hand,
C. the arc for turning a fixed hex wrench or a ratchet w/hex socket is, perhaps, 20-30 degrees, so it takes many partial turns (wish I had a fine tooth ratchet), and
D. the clearance above the screw head is insufficient to fit the tools I had. I ended up using a 1/4" ratchet wrench w/4mm socket & a very short piece of 4mm hex wrench cut to size w/a Dremel (or use a hack saw) & temporarily glued into the socket w/just 1/8" exposed.
6. Removal takes time, but once I made the tool, wasn't too bad.
7. Re-installation of the new resistor is the reverse of the above, but since the screw hole is not visible & the screw has a fine thread, it took me many, many, many tries during which I had nothing good to say about our marque. The only good thing is there's no place for a dropped socket to go.
Perhaps someone has an easier way I overlooked to get to the AC resistor. It looked to me that the only alternative is to drop the AC fan/condenser which seemed at least as much trouble.
I planned to replace both today, but due to unexpected complications & 100F temps only did the AC side. The job is technically easy (maybe a 3 on a 10 pt scale), but the location of the resistor makes it a frustrating, cursing, sweaty, pita project.
It is not necessary to remove the bumper to get to the AC resistor & unless the Turbo nose & front end internals are far different than my Carrera, it wouldn't help anyway. It is only necessary to remove the front most fender liner.
Tools needed:
- #2 phillips screwdriver.
- 4mm hex wrench (a 1/4 inch drive fine tooth ratchet wrench w/4mm shortened shank hex socket makes this project much easier - see below).
- very small hands with very long fingers.
- infinite patience.
The steps are:
1. Jack up the front end, secure w/jack stand & remove the wheel.
2. Remove the front section of the fender liner - rather intuitive after removing 7 or so screws.
3. Disconnect the resistor plug electrical connection (just pulls apart) after pulling the connector from the plastic clips on the inside fender wall.
4. The resistor is located at the top of the interior side of the condenser/cooler. It is secured with one (1) 4mm hex head (internal - "allen") screw through the center of the resistor.
5. Now comes the pita part:
A. the screw is not visible & must be removed & re-installed by feel - it's difficult to get the hex wrench mated to the screw,
B. the space is so limited that my avg size hand could barely fit, precluding turning the screw by hand,
C. the arc for turning a fixed hex wrench or a ratchet w/hex socket is, perhaps, 20-30 degrees, so it takes many partial turns (wish I had a fine tooth ratchet), and
D. the clearance above the screw head is insufficient to fit the tools I had. I ended up using a 1/4" ratchet wrench w/4mm socket & a very short piece of 4mm hex wrench cut to size w/a Dremel (or use a hack saw) & temporarily glued into the socket w/just 1/8" exposed.
6. Removal takes time, but once I made the tool, wasn't too bad.
7. Re-installation of the new resistor is the reverse of the above, but since the screw hole is not visible & the screw has a fine thread, it took me many, many, many tries during which I had nothing good to say about our marque. The only good thing is there's no place for a dropped socket to go.
Perhaps someone has an easier way I overlooked to get to the AC resistor. It looked to me that the only alternative is to drop the AC fan/condenser which seemed at least as much trouble.
07-22-2002, 03:00 AM
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[quote]Originally posted by Silver Bullet:
<strong>... the oil cooler resistor is all the way to the front unlike the AC one which is about mid-way and cannot be reached from the rear.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Kim
Thanks for the heads up about the oil cooler side. I would have been really pissed had I pulled the liner & then found out the resistor is at the front. My bumper is in several pieces unlike yours, so maybe I won't need to remove everything.
As for the AC resistor, given its location, the problems seem to be the same whether it's attacked front or rear.
Another option (which wouldn't make purists happy) is to unplug the bad resistor & leave it mounted. Install the new one & find an alternative mounting point.
BTW, I edited my prior post so it's limited to the AC side, given the differences you've pointed out between the sides.
<strong>... the oil cooler resistor is all the way to the front unlike the AC one which is about mid-way and cannot be reached from the rear.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Kim
Thanks for the heads up about the oil cooler side. I would have been really pissed had I pulled the liner & then found out the resistor is at the front. My bumper is in several pieces unlike yours, so maybe I won't need to remove everything.
As for the AC resistor, given its location, the problems seem to be the same whether it's attacked front or rear.
Another option (which wouldn't make purists happy) is to unplug the bad resistor & leave it mounted. Install the new one & find an alternative mounting point.
BTW, I edited my prior post so it's limited to the AC side, given the differences you've pointed out between the sides.
07-22-2002, 01:55 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by Randall G.:
<strong>Does the condenser fan run with the A/C now?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Yes & the AC output is noticably cooler.
<strong>Does the condenser fan run with the A/C now?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Yes & the AC output is noticably cooler.
07-22-2002, 02:37 PM
#5
[quote]Another option (which wouldn't make purists happy) is to unplug the bad resistor & leave it
mounted. Install the new one & find an alternative mounting point.
<hr></blockquote>
Dan, I was just wondering the same while reading your post... I may take that route.
George
mounted. Install the new one & find an alternative mounting point.
<hr></blockquote>
Dan, I was just wondering the same while reading your post... I may take that route.
George
