kdurg

George...

I do alot of stop and go driving....just above 9 o'clock is normal for my temp gauge. The needle drops closer to 8 when consistent speed is achieved.

You can remove the rear engine tray under the car to help faciliate air flow and cooling.

I wouldn't lose sleep over it.....these cars like running hot.

FYI...I've never seen the needle run over 10 o'clock and can't say I've seen any posts indicating anyone else has either. I'd be curious to hear of any negative instances resulting from the needle posting that high.

Ron

Georges,

If your stopped in traffic and have been in stop and go traffic for a while and it's 95-100F degrees outside I would think your oil temp is about right. Once you get air flowing thru that oil cooler in the front passenger side the gauge will go down. I don't really see how a larger oil cooler or another one will do that much for a car that's not moving, ie no air flow.

I did do the fan switch install so I can manually activate the oil cooling fan when I want and it's just the ticket for those situation where you get stopped and it's real hot out. I live in South Carolina and it can get both hot and humid.

When your oil fan is running just go out and put your hand under the vents on the bottom right hand front of your car where the hot air is discharged. The air is very very hot. You should really consider doing the switch that allows you to turn on the fan yourself.

Randall G.

George,

Your temperature is at the point where the oil cooler fan should be coming on, dropping the temperature below 9:00. If you don't see the temperature fluctuating between your pic's value and below 9:00 when stuck in traffic, good chance your ballast resistor is toast.

You could install a resistor in parallel with your oil cooler temperature sensor, which will cause the fan (if functional) to start sooner. I would have to look at the shop manual tables of temp vs. resistance to determine the optimum value. Or, you can simply unplug the sensor, and the oil cooler fan will run in fast-speed all the time with the ignition on (as John described above). To me, the fast-speed switch is the best option, but imagine you have your reasons for wanting to take another tack.

Georges Rebeiz

My car fan just passed the test described .. I was thinking in case there is an oil gauge that would signal the fan switch to start at a lower temperature than the one originally installed.
I am taking her for a ride just now at night . there is no traffic .I neeed to see how hot she gets..the...b.... oups..the baaaby

Georges Rebeiz

Just came back from a 30 min drive.. the needle stayed a 8 O'clock. It is a cool night today.I did not have the A/C on .

What is Ballast resistor? where is it placed?and how do you test it? I can rember in my 964 the blower stopped because some kind of spring in the blower was busted!

Could it be a blower issue?Is there a way to test the blower?

swftiii

George,

If you follow this link, it will explain everything about the remote oil cooler and fan operation that helps to control your oil temps.

http://p-car.com/diy/fan/

Also, searching the archives will give you more information than you can imagine.

Skip

Ron

Georges,

Sounds like you don't have a problem, but like Skip says check the link. It's by Randell G. I'd follow his advice if I were you; I know I did.

Carrera Mike

Georges, Before you buy the 2nd radiator, check your fan low speed mode if it's running. If it's not. I bet you its the Series(Ballast) Resistor.
Go to this link to check you fan.
http://p-car.com/diy/fan/

New modified Series Resistor part no is 993-616-521-01, $37

Georges Rebeiz

I think I found IT!!

I did the jumpering test from the relay and It seems that only fast operation is working . When I jumper for slow operation nothing happens.

I did the same for the AC and I have also no slow operation when jumpering....Is this why I blew my AC compressor last week!!! Actually thinking of it now my slow speed ac fan never worked ...

I believe that I need two ballast resistors .one for the AC and one for the oil cooler... Are both parts identical??
I will be having a DIY on these two..any chances it is too hard of a job?

Am I correct in deducing so?? Long live Rennlist!!

Chaos

Check out the most recent Pano it covers all this !

Chaos

Check out the most recent Pano it covers all this !

Flying Finn

That's the way to go, change the resistors (there's two, one for a/c and one for oil cooler) and if you really don't want to do the fan switch (I'd still do it, it's really simple job, takes maybe 1-2 hours to do) go and pull the connector behind the headlight off for that hot summer season.

For changing the resistors you might want to take the front bumper cover off, makes the job easier although it should be possible without taking the bumper cover off.

There's no point on buing the Turbo S cooler since your problems happen on stop and go traffic, Turbo S cooler doesn't help (well, just a bit) in that situation.

Georges Rebeiz

It took me a couple of hours to remove the two resistors...They have been blown and rusted for a long time now..

cost of each is 50 USD from the lebanese dealer..I'll get them from Dubai at hopefully 1/2 the cost on Sunday.

cost of labour is 0 USD and a happy Porsche driver who hopes his problems are solved when he changes the resistors.

Speaking of resistors...There is still the blower resistor which needs to be tested .. Anyone knows how to test blower resistor?..

axl911

Have you checked to see if your thermostat is working?

Running the fan on high won't do a thing if your thermostat is still closed.

max911

Georges, to test the resistor you have pictured:

- place resistor in garbage can
- go to dealer and purchase new ballast resistor
- when you get back from the dealer, look in the garbage can. if the old resistor is still there, install new one

axl, i think that if his thermostat was not opening, he would be experiencing much higher oil temperatures; considering the ambient air temp there.
the old 'ear by the front bumper -gurgle test' should confirm oil circulation.

max