Looking for a shop to do a check starp repair near 14092
 

My driver side has some mobility.

I called around and can't find any places near my (Zip 14092).
.

[QUOTE=crw;18954324]My driver side has some mobility.

I called around and can't find any places near my (Zip 14092).
.[/QUOTE

Looks like you’re SE of Buffalo. Two suggestion’s……

Call the Porsche dealer in Williamsville I think it used to be called Autoplace Porsche but may have changed names the service manager is terrific and knowledgeable and helped me sort out some 997.2 PCCM issues. He could give you a body shop lead - send pics. Sorry I can’t remember his name.

There is body shop in Syracuse that could do this finesse work if he’ll take it on. Performance Auto Body on West Belden Avenue. Eric is the owners name. Nice guy and his shop was filled with high end and sports cars. He’d probably want pics or take the 90 minute drive. He’s done some finesse work for me and is great.

Good luck.

Thanks

Hi CRW,
If your strap has not come loose and just exhibits some minor movement a small wire weld on the underside of the pivot tieing it to the door jamb may be the minimally invasive way to go.
Consider a shop that does custom hotrods, they usually have a very experienced in-house welder. If you go to a full-service Porsche-certified shop I suspect your cost will be much higher.
Andy

Thanks = the detentes are ground down.

No noise when I open door normal, just if the door is fully extended - then there is a pop.

I tool it to a Porsche mechanic friend who said he notice slight play when the door was fully extended.

This is what I think I will do:

- still can't get the check strap pin out, don't want to use a hammer to pound it out, pliers didn't do the trick, PB blaster was of no help, I found a device on Amazon which should push the pin out with no stress on the welds

- remove the check strap, open it up, trim the roller and further grinding and some grease

- snug on the bolts on the door and see if that solves the noise, if not, I will likely go the tack weld and baby the door

the other day I had the car inspected at at local Porsche dealer. I devised a hooptie check strap protection devise (rope around the steering column and door handle) + a sign asking them not to open the door wide. It worked, they like my car so much they comped my inspection fee and thanked me for coming in so they could see the car.

They don't sell many 911s here - can't remember the last time I saw one in the showroom. In the 5 years I have lived here, I have only seen 1 other 993 and that was at a club event. 911s are a rare breed in WNY so it seems.

[QUOTE=mike cap;18955513]
Eric did mine many…many years ago, after a failed attempt by another highly recommended shop, which looked like a paint matched gob of JB Weld. Highly recommended

crw: "No noise when I open door normal, just if the door is fully extended - then there is a pop."

I was under the impression (I hope to be disproved) that if you hear the dreaded POP at any point while opening the door the body weld has already failed...

I would be grateful to hear from anyone in the the group that knows for sure.

Me too - there is no mobility that I can tell at the A pillar. I have read somewhere in RL that some member have had the pop go away once the rubber rollers were shaved back.

Perhaps a partial weld fail, not complete at this point? Don"t know.

They do sell very small fiber optic cell phone cameras that one can slip in the hole at the A pillar (where the check strap is attached) which would then allow me to inspect the back half of the A Pillar where the weld actually is.I have a friend who has one - might be interesting to try.

Also, with the door open - I could thread it toward the area on interest at the A pillar.

[QUOTE=Magdaddy;18957149]Yes Eric runs an immaculate shop. He repainted the 993 bumper cover perfectly when the genius owner (me) devised to push on it to move the car and caused spider cracks in the clear coat. And on the 997.2 he filled in the rear bumperette holes. Fantastic workmanship.

[QUOTE=Magdaddy;18957149]What method was used? A-pillar 'window' access & reinforcement, or TIG weld to replace the paint-matched gob?


Andreas

[QUOTE=AOW162435;18961923]
IIRC, it took him longer to remove that aforementioned “gob”, than it did to weld and paint match. Been the better part of 10 years…and too numerous door openings to remember later, and still looks the same.

Update:

I finally got the check strap pin out. I ended up using the center punch and braced the bracket at the A pillar to avoid torquing the weld.. Those pins are in there TIGHT.

Once the pin was out I was able to gain access to the check strap bolts. When opening and closing the door, prior to pin removal, the noise was definitely on the check strap side and not the side of A pillar.I could tell this by removing the speaker box and feeling the back of the check strap as I opened and closed the door. I checked with my hand at the back of check strap within the door and then also, on the bracket at the A pillar.

Once the strap was released, I could definitely tell there was zero mobility of the bracket at the A pillar.

With the check strap out, I flat grounded the arm of the check strap further, reinstalled and tighten the nuts after some adjustment, put a new pin in and there is now no popping noise.

Perhaps the bolts on the check strap loosened and it was out of alignment - who knows?

All is good, no need for a repair. If I am careful with the door things should be good.