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ToSi, to be honest, I'm not sure. That's one thing I will have to test. I have fister 3's in so even if I was by the engine, I'm not sure if I can hear the pump over the exhaust. In terms of vram actuators cycling, when I put the key in and turn to "on", I do hear some kind of buzzing noise. I'm not sure if that's the actuator or not though
Edwin
What tosi is referring to is the sai pump. It is controlled by two things one an electrical circuit that turns it on or off. The other is a vacuum valve that controls the flow of air the pump is pumping into the exhaust ports/head.
From a testing point of view, and easy one is feeling for air to be sucked in on the airbox sai port. Remove the airbox cover and there is a small circular hole that has a black 1" hose hooked to it and goes back to the pump. If the pump is working and valve working you will feel air being sucked in.
Beyond that will be other tests like testing if the vacuum system is holding vacuum which would open/close the sai valve. Vacuum and a working vacuum solenoid valve is needed for it to work.
The other is putting a multimeter on the 12v lead connecting to the sai pump and if the 12v lead is energized or not at the start of the motor during the sai proceedure.
ToSi, to be honest, I'm not sure. That's one thing I will have to test. I have fister 3's in so even if I was by the engine, I'm not sure if I can hear the pump over the exhaust. In terms of vram actuators cycling, when I put the key in and turn to "on", I do hear some kind of buzzing noise. I'm not sure if that's the actuator or not though
Edwin
the actuators will click, ask helper to turn key while you watch them. Samurai has a good suggestion for checking flow, don't mistake the SAI port for the trans vent though
I spent some time today further diagnosing the SAI code. Today I
changed out the air pump relay (it was only $19 so why not)
Checked the 40A fuse for the air pump (looked good)
changed out the passenger side o2 pre & post cat sensors. @pp000830 recommended that I just do one side and see if it clears the one of the codes.
plugged in my Durametric to run the air pump manually
So before I started, I confirmed on my ultraguage that I was still getting the P0410 and P1411 codes. Changed out the relay and the passenger side 02 sensor. Went for a drive... CEL comes back on (I cleared it the night before). I check the code on my Ultraguage and it's still both the P0410 and P1411 code. Next I plugged in my Durametric cable and turned on the air pump manually to test if it's working. I hear a faint click but no fan/pump sound. Dead quiet. So now I am thinking my pump is not working. Just for fun, I check the engine codes off my durametric and it shows only the SAI code on Cylinder 1-3, which is the driver side that still has the old 02 sensors. So now I'm lost... 1) it seems like the error codes that come up on the durametric and the ultraguage do not match (I think I would trust the durametric more?) and 2) why was there absolutely no sound when I manually turned on my pump?
I will be changing out the driver-side 02 sensors later this week so maybe that will the final fix but what baffles me is the pump...
Focus on the pump, check the wiring to it. If it's getting 12v, it should run. The insulation on the pump wires disintegrates over time or you might have a problem with the pump itself.
Thanks ToSi. I actually checked the pump yesterday. I took off the airbox cover and filter and on cold start, turned it on and felt that there was air being pulled from the 1” black hose so I believe the pump works. Btw I’m not sure if this happens to anyone else but my pump would not manually turn on with the durametric. I guess my next test will be to unhook the sai check valve and test to see if there’s air flowing out of it during cold start.
Are you using the latest software from Durametric? I found Durametric can be buggy if the latest version is not used, reporting OBD Codes that don't exist and Oxygen Sensor codes in error where no problem exists.
"it seems like the error codes that come up on the durametric and the ultraguage do not match (I think I would trust the durametric more?) and 2) why was there absolutely no sound when I manually turned on my pump?
Also, the manual activation of the air pump in Durametric works so if no activation something is wrong. I would pull out the old fuse and use some electrical cleaner to hose out its socket and put a new clean fuse. Also, clean out the relay socket. Also inspect and clean the pigtail wire plug leading to the pump. Along the way, one can inspect the wires for deterioration.
Hey Andy, yes I believe I am using the latest software as I downloaded it off their website two weeks ago. I did check last night on the pump (by doing a cold start) and I did feel the air pulling from the hose in the airbox. I'll check the fuse again... now I know why people say chasing this down is frustrating...
Hey Andy, yes I believe I am using the latest software as I downloaded it off their website two weeks ago. I did check last night on the pump (by doing a cold start) and I did feel the air pulling from the hose in the airbox. I'll check the fuse again... now I know why people say chasing this down is frustrating...
10-22-2020, 06:27 PM
