Trials and Tribulations of Hood Shock Replacement
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Trials and Tribulations of Hood Shock Replacement
Okay, headed out to the post office this morning and low and behold... my magic bag of parts came in that I ordered last week.
First was to replace the switchblade key w/ the lighted key end as per Robin's DIY page. That was no problem except the part about tapping the key so the lock pin would fall out. After much banging on the table, liberal amounts of WD-40 and some choice words, it finally came out. It's so nice not to have to use the switchblade.
Second order of business was to install some new hood shocks. Okay, I admit it. I thought this was going to be easier than it really turned out to be. When I tried to remove the air cleaner box cover I ran into my first problem. Some "genius" who worked on the car lost the clip that was suposed to be there decided to use a screw to keep the cover on! Anyone know the part # for these clips? GRRRR....
After much twisting, turning and getting into positions that must have looked like I was trying to mount the Porsche from behind, doggy style, to any neighbor watching me, I finally got both struts in. Porsche designers are one sick, masochistic bunch of puppies.
End result? I couldn't believe how strong these struts are. The hood now stands at attention and requires much force to push down to it's locking position. I like it.
I wimped out and didn't do the fronts as the struts still hold the trunk lid up w/o letting it fall. Hard to imagine I did the "easy" side. Can just imagine how difficult it's gonna be when time comes to change the fronts.
Anyway.. pic of the screw job. Anyone know the part # for the missing clip?
First was to replace the switchblade key w/ the lighted key end as per Robin's DIY page. That was no problem except the part about tapping the key so the lock pin would fall out. After much banging on the table, liberal amounts of WD-40 and some choice words, it finally came out. It's so nice not to have to use the switchblade.
Second order of business was to install some new hood shocks. Okay, I admit it. I thought this was going to be easier than it really turned out to be. When I tried to remove the air cleaner box cover I ran into my first problem. Some "genius" who worked on the car lost the clip that was suposed to be there decided to use a screw to keep the cover on! Anyone know the part # for these clips? GRRRR....
After much twisting, turning and getting into positions that must have looked like I was trying to mount the Porsche from behind, doggy style, to any neighbor watching me, I finally got both struts in. Porsche designers are one sick, masochistic bunch of puppies.
End result? I couldn't believe how strong these struts are. The hood now stands at attention and requires much force to push down to it's locking position. I like it.
I wimped out and didn't do the fronts as the struts still hold the trunk lid up w/o letting it fall. Hard to imagine I did the "easy" side. Can just imagine how difficult it's gonna be when time comes to change the fronts.
Anyway.. pic of the screw job. Anyone know the part # for the missing clip?
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i am pretty sure that the part number is:
993 110 116 00 about $2.50
although there is another clamp around the back:
993 110 116 01 about $4.00
i'll PM you a diagram and you can determine which one it is for sure.
max
993 110 116 00 about $2.50
although there is another clamp around the back:
993 110 116 01 about $4.00
i'll PM you a diagram and you can determine which one it is for sure.
max
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Originally posted by Phil McGrath
Dam Kelly
You sure have been busy!!!
Dam Kelly
You sure have been busy!!!
new guy on the block w/ lots of catching up to do to make the car sound. Steep learning curve, but I'm enjoying this for now and suppose that's all that matters. We'll see a few months from now how much enthusiasm I have for working on the car.
max- diagram would be great. there's another clamp out back? I hope you mean at the bottom of the cover and not towards the firewall. I found no clamp towards the firewall.
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Drive it? We're supposed to drive these things? DOH!! I thought these were perpetual hobby machines.
BTW, Einstein must have been a Porsche apprentice mechanic before quitting to find an easier job in Physics.
BTW, Einstein must have been a Porsche apprentice mechanic before quitting to find an easier job in Physics.
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Front hood shocks are *way* easier than the rear (took about 15 minutes). Just be sure to jam a rag or something in the hole next to the shock so the retaining clips for the top of the shock don't fall down out of sight in the fender. Ask me how I know....
-Chris
-Chris
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The magnet on a telescoping stick is your best friend for this job!
Have fun with your new to you car! Bummer about the self-tapper in the airbox. If thats the only thing you find wrong, you'll be just fine!!
Have fun with your new to you car! Bummer about the self-tapper in the airbox. If thats the only thing you find wrong, you'll be just fine!!
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I ended up using a bicycle spoke slightly bent and duct tape to retrieve non-metallic parts that fell into the abyss during the front shock replacement.
Have yet to replace the rears, still waiting for the skin graft on my knuckles to take from doing the fronts...
Have yet to replace the rears, still waiting for the skin graft on my knuckles to take from doing the fronts...
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How do you pop the clips on the lower part of the struts that keep the front hatch/trunk open?? I took a look down their after finishing the engine lid struts and cannot believe how tough it looks to get at these.
Steve
Steve
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Chris- that's good to hear the fronts are a bit easier. From what I read on Robin's page, it scared me enough to not even attempt it. After looking at the bottom of the shock waaaayyy down there in the front, I could see me dropping the clip and never, ever finding it again. Thanks for the tip on jamming a cloth to catch errant parts as I did the same thing when doing the back.
chris walrod- "The magnet on a telescoping stick is your best friend for this job!" You know, I had one out when doing the back and I think the car knew I had it available, so it never gave me a hard time with dropped parts. I wasn't feeling that lucky about the fronts, though.
About that screw... yeah, it is a bummer when people do things like that. To make it worse, I think it was done at the PPI just prior to me buying the car. To add insult to injury, I was the one who selected these guys to do the PPI.
grouchy- The backs are kind of a pain cause you gotta reach way back there and it's a touchy, feely type of deal. Biggest problem I had was lining up the new shock eye with the pin that had to be slid in there. I made up my special Porsche hood shock installation tool to keep the eye inline with the pivot hole while I struggled to get the pin through. BTW, I have a number of high res pics of the rear shock install that might help, if you like.
chris walrod- "The magnet on a telescoping stick is your best friend for this job!" You know, I had one out when doing the back and I think the car knew I had it available, so it never gave me a hard time with dropped parts. I wasn't feeling that lucky about the fronts, though.
About that screw... yeah, it is a bummer when people do things like that. To make it worse, I think it was done at the PPI just prior to me buying the car. To add insult to injury, I was the one who selected these guys to do the PPI.
grouchy- The backs are kind of a pain cause you gotta reach way back there and it's a touchy, feely type of deal. Biggest problem I had was lining up the new shock eye with the pin that had to be slid in there. I made up my special Porsche hood shock installation tool to keep the eye inline with the pivot hole while I struggled to get the pin through. BTW, I have a number of high res pics of the rear shock install that might help, if you like.
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Originally posted by max911
i am pretty sure that the part number is:
993 110 116 00 about $2.50
although there is another clamp around the back:
993 110 116 01 about $4.00
i'll PM you a diagram and you can determine which one it is for sure.
max
i am pretty sure that the part number is:
993 110 116 00 about $2.50
although there is another clamp around the back:
993 110 116 01 about $4.00
i'll PM you a diagram and you can determine which one it is for sure.
max
Thanks, Max!
PS. Stranegely enough, PET doesn't recognise that part # when you try to search.
PPS. How do you capture a PET diagram if you want to send it to somebody?
#15
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How do you capture a PET diagram if you want to send it to somebody?
it basically does a 'copy' of what ever pixels are on your monitor at the time.
Then you will have to paste that into some sort of program that will handle a graphic image. MS Paint, MS Picture It, Paintshop, Photoshop, etc. etc..
Then attach the image as a jpeg etc. to your email or PM
max