Need help waking a car from long storage
 

For various reasons (life, universe, everything) I now find myself with my 2+year un-driven 993. Prior to that time I had put <10K miles during ownership - the car was purchased in 2001 with 12,000mi and currently sits at 21,xxx mi.

Up until 2012, the car received yearly oil changes. Of note, at that last service, the “expert” Porsche mechanic actually said to me (after I had paid) “yeah, that little oil filter’s just too hard to get to so I didn’t change that one”. My OCD tendencies since purchase was to never turn the car off until it had run for at least 10-15min after reaching sufficient temperature to circulate the oil from the right front reservoir. Hopefully that, and the reality that mostly clean oil has been changed for fresh repeatedly, has helped in some way. I removed the rear under-tray at least 10+ years ago and so far, no seepage noted but I do know the telescoping plastic fill line needs to be removed.

In 2012 the car moved to the desert where ambient humidity is usually <20%. The car has been living in the air on a 4 post lift since 2015 (when it was on the ground from 2012-2015 it was moved so infrequently, a lovely collection of black widow spiders took up residence underneath). The car now has a Li+ battery in a turned off position. The battery change was made Dec 2018 after going through 3 or 4 Optima Red Top and 2 Cytek maintainers that seemed to kill each other, if not killed by my stupidity or random power outages, over the previous 15 years.

Living for 5 years with a 500Hp supercharged Jag not only started the path of non-Porsche driving in 2010, but also taught me several things - I really prefer a coupe to a convertible and damn that supercharger power is NICE! I’ve always enjoyed driving the 993 and while thoughts of sale have crossed my mind, I know I’m pretty far off stock, with no retained original parts. Even more importantly, all the contemplated replacements are $90K+ - So why not hold on to this awesome vehicle I currently own and try to make it even more "right"?

After lots of hours of research, planning, and negotiations the D Morris Designs hard-top should be arriving at my house in the next 2 weeks.

My goal is to get the car running and all aspects working (A/C specifically, remember, I live in the desert), install the hard-top and drive for at least 6 months before committing to getting a TPC Supercharger with inter-cooler installed.


However, there are a combination of service issues:

1) I’m ~120mi from anywhere that might be able to provide service

2)I have ZERO DIY skills or tools. I once posted on Rennlist (~2005ish) about how my DIY attempts usually end up in larger repair bills.

Therefore I need to find someone to do the work for me but I also recognize the need to come up with a written list of what I want done - my wallet is not deep enough to just hand someone the keys and say “make it new again”. A list will also be helpful as initial conversations will most likely be done via email.


I’ve done some searches on Rennlist (I admit to being absolutely terrible at using the search engine) and I know @pp000830 has written a great guide (again, search help!??) but what exactly would folk suggest for a definitive TO-DO list to get the car running again?

It would be easy to say “Just do a 60K Service” - but do distributors and plug wires really need to be changed just due to age or would competent visual inspection (is there a way to measure misfiring?) suffice?


I also have collected some parts over the years for upgrades that have yet to occur. Some, I know (eg: SS brake lines) can be done at the time of a brake fluid flush. Other items (eg: #2 below) could be done in place of needed belts, tensioner, etc replacement.

As if all of the above isn’t enough, there are some upgrades I’m seriously considering.

1. SSK and FD Goldenrod: I have yet to hear anyone say they wish they had not done this. I certainly would not mind decreasing the feeling of “rowing” through the gears.
2. Clewett serpentine belt: other than any alternator issues, which I do not think would even apply for me given the Li+ battery (someone who knows a lot more PLEASE comment!) - again I have not heard complaints post install, and I believe it is compatible with a TPC???
3. I already have Rennline Motor Mounts for installation - planning on yellow inserts as car is street only. Does the installation require dropping the engine? I also would like to perform the Rennline Engine Carrier Reinforcement - will the removal and replacement of the existing carrier require an engine drop?

Has anyone done a similar “refurbishment” or reawakening?Reinforc

I do appreciate anyone’s experience or input.

I just woke a 51K mile 964 from a 20 year old slumber. It only had oil changes every 2 years and driven to and from the shop for those oil changes.

My car has been on a battery tender so it fired right up and has been driven around for the past month. I put approx 400 miles on it and two fuel ups already.

It does have a list of maintenance items that I am collecting parts for. Nothing special with these cars if stored in a climate controlled garage like yours.

Just pull the DME relay and cycle the crank a few times to make sure it has oil pressure and then start it. Expect smoke from oil in the cylinders and it should burn off in a few minutes. It may make a racquet if the lifters have drained themselves of oil. That clacky noise will only go away if you drive it for a bit.

Pp000830 is knowledgeable and will give you additional suggestions.
I live in Pennsylvania and I want know more about the auxiliary hardtop, costs, and photographs?
Thank you.

If the fuel is 2 years old and was not treated with STABIL, it may be hard to start or may not start due to gummed up lines, fuel injectors, etc. Let's hope that isn't the case. If it doesn't start, that's probably the culprit. When you do get it up and running, I suggest getting some fresh 93 Octane in the tank and, when you get it to a competent mechanic, have the fuel filter changed.

There are a few threads on DMorris Hard top in the 964 & 993 Forum here and on Pelican.

My hard top will be a whole separate thread - starting maybe in September...

So far I've spent:
DMorris top & custom parts = ~$3500 (exactly 3048 Euro)
Shipping from D Morris to my door = ~$1600 (there will still be some tax to pay)
OEM parts sourced through Sonnen = $2720

I still need to get the roof painted and at a minimum it is recommended to hire an experienced glass installer.

Note:
I found it was easiest for me to only purchase D Morris parts from them and purchase all OEM parts from a Porsche supplier, plus arrange for all the shipping.
If you want, you can purchase all needed parts, along with arranging shipping to the USA, directly from D Morris. (But then you still also need to deal with importation into the USA and transport from importation location)


I had planned on potentially rolling the car to a flat-bed to transport to service with the plan to drain the fuel system and change the fuel line filter prior to starting the car at all.

Would it be "safe" to start the car to move to transport, then change the fuel line filter and simply dilute old gas with fresh?

Don't do the belt swap-out the original belts are there to provide the proper operating voltage for the engine, lights and accessories and most importantly the AC. You mention using the ac a lot, a primary reason to not install an aftermarket system.
Andy

I’d change all fluids, filters and belts. Literally all. Get a baseline.

Definitely deal with the old fuel.

How old are the tires? If any dry rot replace.

I think these cars benefit from changing the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotors. Unless you have evidence it’s been done then I’d have that high on the list. The wires dry rot from age.

Keep in mind the car could be worth more than you realize because of the very low mileage. I point that out because any money spent to restore it should be recovered if you do decide to sell it.

/

I agree with chsu74, it's safe to start the car. If it runs ok (and it probably will), drive it gently and when there's some room in the tank do as NC_TRACKRAT says and start adding fresh gas.

I did most of the mods you're contemplating during my own refresh this winter.

• The Fister SSK and goldenrod are a slam dunk.
• I used the Clewett setup but only because the cost of upgrading the stock pulleys was halfway to the cost of the Clewett. It charges fine and runs the AC well, but isn't a necessity. Looks good, though, and you always have the right belt tension.
• You can do the rennline engine carrier reinforcement without dropping the motor but it's not inconsequential to get the carrier out. I did that mod since I was already dropping the motor and thus had the carrier off, and could weld it myself, for a total incremental cost of $125. IMO not worth paying to remove, weld, and replace for a street car.
• Don't know about your mount choice, but I tried factory RS mounts and hated the NVH, and returned to stock. YMMV.

I would get the car running and see if you get a misfire code related to the ignition system, If yes, then consider fatmike's proposal. No need to throw money at it that is not needed. Modern synthetic rubber ignition wires don't dry out from age like the old rubber ones.

The system actually counts misfires and is very sensitive so any leakage or fouled plugs to the point where misfires are increased will get captured and throw and OBD Code and illuminate the Check Engine Light.

Andy