Let me start out by asking, are these things as big of a pain in the *** to change the oil as I'm lead to believe? I'm very mechanically inclined and have a scissor lift to get the car off the ground, is there any tips or words of wisdom?

Not even a big pita without a scissor lift. Check out the multitude of threads here and the DIYs that are around, make sure you have a big enough oil drain pan, order up the parts and have at it.

Allow yourself 2-3 hours on the first attempt at the oil change. You will spend some time wiping oil off undercarriage parts and different crevices. It is not a hard job.

Magic

I did my second oil change a few weeks ago. My first change I used one of those flexible funnels for the oil tank. For the 2nd change, I had a drain pan with an adjustable funnel. The funnel was just under the oil tank plug so was perfect without the pia and mess of the flex funnel. Plus the pan is low profile so works on the engine case plug as well.

https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-ga...pan/721214_0_0

And be careful not to overfill.

I change my own oil.
Here is the oil fill procedure I use today to address the whole overfill conundrum, use it at your own risk as I am not a professional automotive technician. If you have any concerns about aspects of the procedure contact a professional for their advice.

 Park the car on level ground and break-free and leave in place the passenger side rear wheel nuts slightly snugged.
 Put the rear of the car on jack stands, Use the Jacking-up a 993 a DIY procedure on p-car.com's DIY page to do this safely;
 If your car still has the under engine cover/tray remove it and store it away as some in this think it just hides oil leaks and causes the engine to retain heat. I feel it serves little purpose beyond making changing the oil more difficult. It has gone missing on most examples of a 993.
 With the passenger rear wheel now removed, I drain the oil tank and the engine case into a drain pan of at least 10 to 12 quarts in capacity. Do not attempt to drain the oil using a vacuum oil remover through the oil filler neck, it will not work and can easily damage or bend the oil level float arm in the oil tank.
 The engine case drain plug is on the bottom of the engine case and points to the driver side of the car.
o I reach under the car through the passenger side rear wheel well, I replace both filters. This requires removing the fender liner, the back half of the plastic rocker panel cover and detaching the heating system flapper valve housing (diverter) rubber flex duct on the passenger underside of the engine case.
o I have used both a channel-locks or an oil filter pliers to initially break loose both the small and large filters.
o Use a little old oil on the rubber seal on the new filter before threading it in place.
o I make both filters as tight as I can with my bare hands and then turn the filter a quarter turn beyond this with the pliers. Although not a factory method I have never encountered a filter backing off or being unable to remove one with this method.
o I do not disconnect any steel tubes as specified in the factory procedure to drain the oil in the oil lines as my belief is that breaking the seals presents unnecessary leak failure modes and the quantity of oil present in the lines is small.
o I do keep a can of spray electric motor/electronic parts cleaner on hand to clean off oil spilled on the engine and suspension when removing the smaller filter.
 When replacing the engine case and oil tank plugs I replace the crush rings and the "O" ring on the tank plug. On occasion, I have reused the existing metal crush rings and "O" ring with no leaks. Be sure not to overtighten the tank plug.
 Button up the plastic parts, the heating duct, mount the wheel lightly snugging the wheel nuts and put the car back on the ground
 Retorque the wheel nuts to the recommended dry thread value of 133Nm. or 96 ft/Lb in a star pattern sequence, then check the torque values by repeating the sequence on the now tightened wheel nuts.
 Refill the oil tank with 8 quarts +/- of oil and run the engine to a fully HOT state, this takes a while, looking to the temperature and oil pressure gauges to see if they have settled into their normal operating range.
 I then, with the engine running, add additional oil, ¼ quart (8 oz.) at a time until the dip stick is at approximately 1/3 of its scale with the car on level ground with a fully HOT RUNNING engine.
 If you find yourself putting ten or more quarts of oil in, using this procedure, you are most likely overfilling the engine. On a 993 this can have serious operating consequences and so an overfill should be addressed as soon as possible. The easiest way to address an overfill is to shut off the engine and drain the oil from the engine case as the case does not retain much oil.
I feel this method gives an additional margin of safety in avoiding inadvertently overfilling the system. If you decide to follow my measurement procedure and as a follow-up check the fill with the dash gauge and your gauge doesn’t read at about 1/3 of its range the float in the oil tank is a bit out of adjustment.

After a couple dozen oil changes on the 993, I’m proud to say I’ve got it down to 90 minutes and half a roll of paper towels. I stongly suggest a squat bucket for the reservoir and a three finger self adjusting filter wrench ffor the small oil filter.

LOL. The last two-three quarts are not easy fills

Oil filter cap wrench and some scrap cardboard to deflect the oil from the tank and the case drain into your pan. Once you do it a few times it'll be much faster.

The Porsche Dealer from which I bought my car new only charged $822.75 to change my oil and both oil filters March 2017. And to pass Pennsylvania State Inspection, emissions exempt, I was charged an additional $339.00 for a back-up and licence plate bulb.

This Dealer is now my Ex-Porsche Dealer.

I know all about their Factory Trained Porsche Certified "Technicians."

I still don’t understand how Franny can keep pastel clothing clean working on Porsches.

Thanks everyone

Depending on the dimensions of your scissor lift, it may prove to be a hindrance due to the position of the oil tank drain plug in conjunction with the rocker panel cover. You'll see what I mean when you get the car up in the air. Once the small access panel is removed, I've found the widebody rocker allows a straight shot to drain whereas the narrow body interferes and requires either a flexible funnel or removal of the offending rocker panel.

True wisdom

Yeah! I find the jack/stand blocks removal of the last screw. Must remember that next time.