Ignition Cables
05-12-2019, 02:57 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ignition Cables
What's everyone been using for these. I continue to get misfires occasionally and ignition cables are the only thing left that i haven't replaced. Got a quote from a deal and its 14 unique part numbers for over $1200 from Sonnen. 993-602-060-01 - 06; 11 - 16 and 07 & 08. I see Beru has a set for $450ish from various vendors. Is this what everyone goes with? Clewett engineering as well. What's recommended? Thanks!
Last edited by GBX; 05-12-2019 at 03:45 PM.
05-13-2019, 06:51 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Beru Ordered! Thanks.
Now the question is whether to send my mufflers to Darin for some Fister action while they are out for the wire install. Never ends. Hahaha.
Now the question is whether to send my mufflers to Darin for some Fister action while they are out for the wire install. Never ends. Hahaha.
05-13-2019, 08:30 AM
#5
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If you are getting non-cylinder specific misfire codes or multiple cylinder specific ones for multiple cylinders it is unlikely your wires. More likely a vacuum leak, rotor, cap, ignition coil, or some other centralized function that influences multiple cylinder ignition. If your wires are original and you have over 80K miles on them replacing them may be a good idea, I can only give anecdotal guidance in this regard. The reason the wires can be purchased individually is that if a cylinder-specific misfire is reoccurring on its own and the distributor belt and fuel supply has been ruled out as the root cause it is reasonable to replace just one wire. Also misfire codes are accumulative, if I start my car and do not blip the throttle it will settle down into a very slow and rough idle and on occasion throw a misfire code. After driving a while the code clears. In my case, I have elected not to address the code as I feel I have an understanding of its root cause and see no need to mess with it. Beru or Bosch branded aftermarket sets work fine. The terminations are a little different but they work fine even if mixing brands with the distributor cap.
Andy
Andy
05-13-2019, 05:24 PM
#6
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Porsche...edirect=mobile
05-13-2019, 05:33 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If you are getting non-cylinder specific misfire codes or multiple cylinder specific ones for multiple cylinders it is unlikely your wires. More likely a vacuum leak, rotor, cap, ignition coil, or some other centralized function that influences multiple cylinder ignition. If your wires are original and you have over 80K miles on them replacing them may be a good idea, I can only give anecdotal guidance in this regard. The reason the wires can be purchased individually is that if a cylinder-specific misfire is reoccurring on its own and the distributor belt and fuel supply has been ruled out as the root cause it is reasonable to replace just one wire. Also misfire codes are accumulative, if I start my car and do not blip the throttle it will settle down into a very slow and rough idle and on occasion throw a misfire code. After driving a while the code clears. In my case, I have elected not to address the code as I feel I have an understanding of its root cause and see no need to mess with it. Beru or Bosch branded aftermarket sets work fine. The terminations are a little different but they work fine even if mixing brands with the distributor cap.
Andy
Andy
I'm guessing you decided it's cheaper to keep her! Is this what you're looking for?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Porsche...edirect=mobile
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Porsche...edirect=mobile
this is is exactly what I ordered. Thanks!!
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05-14-2019, 08:42 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
HOW MANY MILES ON YOUR CAR?
i did plugs, caps and rotors last summer hoping it would fix the misfires. It didn’t. My wires are showing wear. I believe they are original so worth replacing regardless IMO. I also plan to check for vacuum leaks as I agree, this could be the root cause.
I did... for now 😀
this is is exactly what I ordered. Thanks!!
I did... for now 😀
this is is exactly what I ordered. Thanks!!
05-15-2019, 10:24 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
Thanks...I have 66k on mine and starting to show some wear due to age....got a quote $950 for plugs and wires....car is running great and plugs were last changed at 35k so they are due....
05-16-2019, 07:48 AM
#13
I’m guessing the misfire is via the crank position sensor with regard to a failing flywheel?
My car rattles a bit at shut down - but no rattle when I press the clutch while shutting down. I’m getting a new clutch and single weight flywheel. I have a theory that my dual mass is failing - will be interesting to see if that shutdown behavior correlates to a failed flywheel.
My car rattles a bit at shut down - but no rattle when I press the clutch while shutting down. I’m getting a new clutch and single weight flywheel. I have a theory that my dual mass is failing - will be interesting to see if that shutdown behavior correlates to a failed flywheel.
05-16-2019, 09:09 AM
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I’m guessing the misfire is via the crank position sensor with regard to a failing flywheel?
My car rattles a bit at shut down - but no rattle when I press the clutch while shutting down. I’m getting a new clutch and single weight flywheel. I have a theory that my dual mass is failing - will be interesting to see if that shutdown behavior correlates to a failed flywheel.
My car rattles a bit at shut down - but no rattle when I press the clutch while shutting down. I’m getting a new clutch and single weight flywheel. I have a theory that my dual mass is failing - will be interesting to see if that shutdown behavior correlates to a failed flywheel.
05-16-2019, 11:39 AM
#15
Nordschleife Master
There are many potential causes of random misfire codes. I had the same issue a while back, as have others.
Here is a good discussion https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...l#post10813374
Since then, I have had my belts and flywheel replaced, as well as a top end, and have not had a misfire code and 5 or so years. I am still under the belief that multiple things can cause a misfire code, to be thrown, which makes it really tough to diagnose, but the entirety of the possible culprits are pretty well documented. (aren't these cars fun!!!)
I fully recommend the LWFW, unless you are really noise/rattle sensitive, (everyone has different needs/desires for their own car)
Good luck!
PS, while there are many parts that you can "skimp" on Belts and Ignition Cables (IMHO) are two that are worth spending money on. There are other trheads on the topic of Ignition cables, and I bleive age is more detrimental than mileage, as rubber insulation just dries out over time, although heat cycles will certianly expedite the process as well. common beleif is that the connectors generally do not fail, so you CAN save a bit of $$ by getting the wire kit, and re-using the connectors.
Here is a good discussion https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...l#post10813374
Since then, I have had my belts and flywheel replaced, as well as a top end, and have not had a misfire code and 5 or so years. I am still under the belief that multiple things can cause a misfire code, to be thrown, which makes it really tough to diagnose, but the entirety of the possible culprits are pretty well documented. (aren't these cars fun!!!)
I fully recommend the LWFW, unless you are really noise/rattle sensitive, (everyone has different needs/desires for their own car)
Good luck!
PS, while there are many parts that you can "skimp" on Belts and Ignition Cables (IMHO) are two that are worth spending money on. There are other trheads on the topic of Ignition cables, and I bleive age is more detrimental than mileage, as rubber insulation just dries out over time, although heat cycles will certianly expedite the process as well. common beleif is that the connectors generally do not fail, so you CAN save a bit of $$ by getting the wire kit, and re-using the connectors.