Notices
993 Forum 1995-1998

Help with stalling 993

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-09-2019, 08:47 PM
  #1  
Alfa40
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
Alfa40's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 166
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default Help with stalling 993

Hello,

My early 95' 993 was parked in heavy rain for a couple of days and now stalls both during acceleration from a stop and normal driving speeds. At normal speeds, the rev counter goes crazy and the car begins jerking. It usually starts back up when I turn the key, but sometimes it just runs the starter and doesn't actually start until I retry 10 seconds later. Sometimes, the check engine light comes on, at other times it won't.

Cleaned the ISV 6k miles ago
Swapped DME Relay and battery ground strap with new OEM parts two weeks ago

I read about the immobiliser as a possible issue on this thread but always thought the early 993s didn't have this installed.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Alfa40
Old 02-09-2019, 09:44 PM
  #2  
Gbos1
Rennlist Member
 
Gbos1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: United States
Posts: 3,560
Received 732 Likes on 521 Posts
Default

Bad gas?
Old 02-09-2019, 09:54 PM
  #3  
Alfa40
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
Alfa40's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 166
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Is that actually a thing? I mean my last two fill-ups were at Arco, but there wouldn't be any gas sold in the US that would cause such issues, would there? I am sure I went with the highest Octane rating (which is usually 91 in California). Anyway, the tank is 3/4 full, so I won't be able to test this for a while.
Old 02-09-2019, 09:54 PM
  #4  
Churchill
Three Wheelin'
 
Churchill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,519
Received 253 Likes on 163 Posts
Default

Take the distributor caps and rotors off, clean and dry everything. Same with coil wires. When was the last time ignition wires were done?
Old 02-09-2019, 09:55 PM
  #5  
Churchill
Three Wheelin'
 
Churchill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,519
Received 253 Likes on 163 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Gbos1
Bad gas?
None of the problems mentioned in this thread are caused by bad gas. Let's not send people out on wild goose chases.
Old 02-09-2019, 10:13 PM
  #6  
Alfa40
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
Alfa40's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 166
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Churchill
Take the distributor caps and rotors off, clean and dry everything. Same with coil wires.
Will do!

Originally Posted by Churchill
When was the last time ignition wires were done?
I had spark plugs, distributor cap and rotors replaced last July. I can't find any evidence of wire replacement in the service records, unless they were done together with the plugs (which were replaced regularly).
Old 02-10-2019, 01:28 AM
  #7  
golfnutintib
Rennlist Member
 
golfnutintib's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: ..............
Posts: 3,859
Likes: 0
Received 44 Likes on 36 Posts
Default

polluted air?

jk
Old 02-10-2019, 08:58 AM
  #8  
pp000830
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
pp000830's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 9,591
Received 1,444 Likes on 1,017 Posts
Default

If spraying a little DW40 or other spray oil lubricant on the wires and caps clears things up you probably need new ignition wires as the old ones are grounding out in the presence of moisture.
Andy
Old 02-16-2019, 03:49 PM
  #9  
Alfa40
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
Alfa40's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 166
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Ok, here's an update for anyone with similar issues: I cleaned the distributor rotor and caps and sprayed "Wire Dryer" on the spark plug wires and ignition cables (only those ends attached to the distributor). Looks like I didn't wait long enough for it to dry properly, which resulted in 3 or 4 violent stalls, which led me to bring the car to a local Porsche specialist right away. Interestingly, on its way to the mechanic, the car ran fine. The mechanic said he ran numerous tests and all systems run fine, he could not find a fault. Ergo, it seems as if the distributor contacts were the issue, but my failure to let the wire dryer dry off, ended up costing me the needless diagnostics.

Update one night later:
Back to stalling. Can’t even leave the parking spot. What to do? Change caps, rotors and wires „just in case“?

Last edited by Alfa40; 02-16-2019 at 06:17 PM. Reason: Update
Old 02-17-2019, 08:03 PM
  #10  
HelpMeHelpU
Rennlist Member
 
HelpMeHelpU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 3,470
Received 591 Likes on 375 Posts
Default

I posted a similar, though not as extensive and persistent, issue several months ago on a '95 C2. I got all kinds of ideas and suggestions and the issue resolved itself without my intervention. Lucky me.

One thing I haven't heard here is a possible faulty or clogged fuel pump or fuel filter--I believe that may have been my issue. (I am not the least bit mechanically inclined and I am a COMPLETE rookie/novice when it comes to air-cooled Porsches, so take my comments very lightly.)
Old 02-18-2019, 07:46 AM
  #11  
ToreB
Rennlist Member
 
ToreB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 2,411
Received 374 Likes on 236 Posts
Default

Alfa40, I would like to refer to your other thread on this topic, and would suggest to have your immobilizer checked for solder faults.
I have seen many of these control units now, and they all have had serious problems that will disable the ignition without warning and any fault codes in any system, at any time and condition.
Cheers,
Tore
Old 02-18-2019, 10:27 AM
  #12  
TheOtherEric
Rennlist Member
 
TheOtherEric's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Chicago
Posts: 12,063
Received 35 Likes on 23 Posts
Default

The workshop manual goes through a bunch of tests that would be relevant here. Which of them did your shop do? Fuel pressure? Fuel flow rate? Ignition module signals? Etc. If they don’t state each test and the results, it’s fair to say you need a new shop (and a refund). Since they didn’t solve anything, the least they owe you is a list of tests and results. Then see the shop manual and go from there. I wouldn’t put all my money on rain as the culprit , although it’s a good place to start.
Originally Posted by ToreB
Alfa40, I would like to refer to your other thread on this topic, and would suggest to have your immobilizer checked for solder faults.
I have seen many of these control units now, and they all have had serious problems that will disable the ignition without warning and any fault codes in any system, at any time and condition.
Cheers,
Tore
He has an early ‘95 hence no immobilizer.
Old 02-18-2019, 01:14 PM
  #13  
ToreB
Rennlist Member
 
ToreB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 2,411
Received 374 Likes on 236 Posts
Default

TheOtherEric, I am not sure of the situation in the US, but here in Europe, many '94 and 1995/1 models have the early version of the immobilizer system. I have repaired lots of them, and they all have the same type of fault.

By the way, such intermittent stalling problems are very time consuming and difficult to find. Ask me how I know. You have to be there when the fault is present, and even then it is very diffcult. The car can spring into life again under your hands, making it impossible to find the fault.

The thread starter is describing a typical case of a failing first generation 993 immobilizer. It is a 15-20 minute job to remove the driver's seat and take out the immobilizer to check this.

Cheers,
Tore
Old 02-18-2019, 01:35 PM
  #14  
Railmaster.
Three Wheelin'
 
Railmaster.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,480
Received 107 Likes on 78 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TheOtherEric
The workshop manual goes through a bunch of tests that would be relevant here. Which of them did your shop do? Fuel pressure? Fuel flow rate? Ignition module signals? Etc. If they don’t state each test and the results, it’s fair to say you need a new shop (and a refund). Since they didn’t solve anything, the least they owe you is a list of tests and results. Then see the shop manual and go from there. I wouldn’t put all my money on rain as the culprit , although it’s a good place to start. He has an early ‘95 hence no immobilizer.
Hence another immobiliser than the later cars.
1994-95 993s with alarm do have an immobiliser incorporated into the alarm that is activated and deactivated simultainously with the alarm.
Old 02-18-2019, 01:44 PM
  #15  
ToreB
Rennlist Member
 
ToreB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 2,411
Received 374 Likes on 236 Posts
Default

The early immobilizer is indeed tied to the door lock/alarm control unit, but these are two separate units. This early type also has a RF receiver, and upon receival of a valid key fob signal, it will turn on the ignition module power supply and send a signal to the alarm to unlock doors and turn the alarm off. The later and more common immobilizer will in addition to this also interact with the Motronic engine control unit to send a valid unlock code.
Cheers,
Tore


Quick Reply: Help with stalling 993



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 04:16 AM.