Koni Sport Active Install
 

Good morning!

I am in the progress of a Koni Special Active / MO33 install. Top hats had a bad bearing, so waiting on that order.
These shocks previous name was the FSD.

My question is the old assembly transfer of parts to the new assembly
The assorted plastic clips are moved over.
The Koni hieroglyphs only show the bottom and top perch, and the top hat are re-used.
In dis-assembly, I found a brass colored spacer. Since it is not called out, it is not used?
Or does it go between the upper perch and the top hat?

Have not done a trial assembly due to waiting on the top mount, is it obvious how it should go?

Thanks for any tips!

Techman

No help! But I am very satisfied with my FSDs snd ROW M030 springs!

The brass bush goes between the upper spring perch= top hat and the spring top.

Thanks, Gert!

Seems like a direct swap from the OEM setup.

21mm Nut Removal
 

I'm lining up my tooling repertoire for my suspension overhaul and was considering the special strut socket to remove/install the 21mm nut on top of front shock, while still allowing access to the 7mm allen socket...
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...156840c523.png
But I discovered I could get a decent set of Gearwrench offset wrenches for about the same price as the single socket...
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...83fab39bd7.png

I think the offset wrench option should work, but figured I ask if anyone had successfully used that approach prior.

TIA.

I am getting ready to do a suspension upgrade using M033 springs and the Koni Special Active shocks. I will let my guy do it, because I don't want the car sitting in the garage for a month or more. He prefers me to buy the components and let him install it. On top of that, he insists I don't need to upgrade the bushings and what not. This is a 97 c2 tippy and I want to get it back to new (69k miles so far). Any opinions?

^^^ Koni special active w/M033 springs is a common combination and not many will try to talk you out of that. Replacing bushings and what not can be done either as an upgrade or to repair failed parts. Upgrading is optional, but replacing worn parts really shouldn’t be deferred.

Good luck with the new suspension.

The bushing aren’t that expensive. And you’re going to need an alignment anyway which is expensive. I’d do more not less before the alignment.

you can use those but keep in mind you need to torque the top nut.

Edwin

So is that special tool an absolute requirement? And what is the torque setting?

I have a spark plug socket that can be rotated with both a socket wrench or an open wrench- thereby
allowing the allen wrench to be inserted through the center when driven by an open wrench. But I would
not be able to set the torque when driven with an open ended wrench...

I can't remember the top nut spec (I think it was in the ~20+lbs) but I think people will say it's not an "absolute" requirement. In fact, I was only able to torque the front nuts b/c I bought the wrong size for the rear. I ended up just hand tightening.

Edwin

This is a useful resource

https://p-car.com/diy/sus/

b

Installed front Koni SA's w/M033 springs without too much difficulty.

Pulled the stock rears and assembled the Koni/springs and was surprised there was spring float (spring not under any compression). Can anyone confirm this is normal with the Koni Special Actives w/M033 springs?

The stock Monroe shocks were paired with Eibach lowering springs and the car sat pretty low. An aluminum spacer was used and I'm wondering if I should use this thicker option rather than the thinner Koni supplied spacer. Or maybe in combination?

Below picture show spring installed with Koni spacer and the aluminum spacer in comparison. Thickness of the Koni spacer is about .18" versus about .40" for the aluminum spacer.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...975684a780.png


Any thoughts before I install and bolt everything back together would be appreciated.

TIA.

I recently did the same and too was surprised with the rear. In my case there was some float, but was very minimal. So I left as is and I didn’t add a spacer or bother with the zip-tie methods I’ve heard of.
All good so far.

The thing that surprised me was I did end up between the RoW and RS height. Definitely a tad lower than I had expected in the rear. Turned out great in my opinion.

Based off my recent experience, I’m sure you’re fine either way, but If the float worries you or is excessive (and your ok with the height it will add) I bet that thicker spacer would be just fine.

DJ - thanks very much for the confirmation. Like you, the amount of float is minimal, but it’s enough that I’m concerned the spring end on top won’t properly seat into the perch every time the car is lifted. I may put the thicker spacer in the assembly and see how that looks. Thanks again.