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Just a quick update. I had a Porsche mechanic , who now operates his own mobile service , come and check the air -conditioning. He found hardly any dye in the system, so re-gassed the system adding a dye. He then ran the air for 30 mins with no leakage on the high pressure side, the tested for vacuum, where it held pressure , also with no loss. So his conclusion is to use as per normal, monitor the temp output, and if it drops off he can then check with his U/V light for any signs of leakage. In the meantime it's pumping cold air. Thanks for all the helpful replies.
Good news. Get one of those cheapo dial probe thermometers and slide it into the center vent and watch the temps for a while. Hard to judge by feel. Previous was a chart of ambient versus vent temp. But watch for 7 to 12 C depending on ambient. Assumes good rpm, operating for a bit and MAX settings. Make sure you get good condensate water (drip) from under the car.
"He found hardly any dye in the system" The system does not come with dye. Dye is added to the system when it suspected to have leaks. Unfortunately "dye" is only visible where you can see it, and there are many places you cannot see. So, rather than use dye what it s better to use an electronic leak detector; but you also need to know where to 'sniff', where all the connection points are and which are the most common leak areas (evaporator, TEV - expansion valve, condenser).
"so re-gassed the system " If he added refrigerant then you know you have a leak ....which he did not find. If he pulled a vacuum and recharged and now everything is okay, then chances are you still have a leak and its just a matter of time before you start observing cooling issues again.
since griffiths jumped into this conversation, and are the a/c experts, i'll ask them.
would you guys expect a properly functioning 993 a/c system to be able to cool a black car with a black interior that has sat in the Arizona sun and reached probably 140+ F degrees or more in the interior?
(my experience in that condition is the vents blow cold but just cant overcome the residual heat of everything in the cabin and by the time i get home after a 10 mile drive through the city i am uncomfortably hot. my assumption was that this system just wasn't designed with the southwest desert in mind but Meenrod's account seems to suggest it's actually possible to be comfortable.)
Fortunately here in NJ we don't see many days like the south. Highest we have tested systems was 103F to 105F (this would be on blacktop) with the earlier 911 generation.
And, I recall my black top (red body,tan interior) 87 911 cab's interior reaches 130F easily on a clear 85-90F day. So, I would imagine if you have black on black in TX on clear 100F day
those cabin temps might be higher than 140F. Answer, I have not confirmed if the 993 can handle it. But, I'd suggest using a good digital thermometer, something like a Traceable Products
model 4339 or 4039 which has a 10 foot cord from the head to the probe ; quite versatile for many things, and verify the outside ambient walking around the car and the interior.
If your outside ambient is, for example, 100F, and the cockpit is 140F, its quicker to let mother nature cool off that first 40F by simply driving with windows down for the first 5 minutes
until the evaporator core is chilled (no sense putting the load on the system). And, when a car is parked with windows up, best to leave them a crack open (unless you concerned about
crawling critters getting inside).
It would be interesting to hear if anyone has tried one of these gadgets:
thanks for the response. using sun shades plus airing the cabin out do help. i've never tried the solar ventilators. luckily we've got 5 months before we have to start worrying about it again.
Looks like you have a nice 991 to drive on the hot days and keep the 993 for real driving days!
fwiw I'm in Texas and my experience on super hot days the 993 when functioning correctly will not cool like a modern car. Especially if sunbaked. If your ride home is short you are going to be hot all the way.
Looks like you have a nice 991 to drive on the hot days and keep the 993 for real driving days!
fwiw I'm in Texas and my experience on super hot days the 993 when functioning correctly will not cool like a modern car. Especially if sunbaked. If your ride home is short you are going to be hot all the way.
On my car, I notice when the blower is set to high the temperature at the vent rises a little suggesting the capacity of the system is being reached.
A while back I used a wand style bug sprayer to clean the accumulated dust and mold on the evaporator coil in my car. I accessed it through the vent in the firewall behind the climate control unit. Others have done the same accessing it via the driver's side blower housing by removing the cabin filter.
On my car, I notice when the blower is set to high the temperature at the vent rises a little suggesting the capacity of the system is being reached.
A while back I used a wand style bug sprayer to clean the accumulated dust and mold on the evaporator coil in my car. I accessed it through the vent in the firewall behind the climate control unit. Others have done the same accessing it via the driver's side blower housing by removing the cabin filter.
How successful was it, did a lot of gunk come out the drain at the bottom, and what detergent did you use? I'm thinking of doing this myself.
"He found hardly any dye in the system" The system does not come with dye. Dye is added to the system when it suspected to have leaks. Unfortunately "dye" is only visible where you can see it, and there are many places you cannot see. So, rather than use dye what it s better to use an electronic leak detector; but you also need to know where to 'sniff', where all the connection points are and which are the most common leak areas (evaporator, TEV - expansion valve, condenser).
"so re-gassed the system " If he added refrigerant then you know you have a leak ....which he did not find. If he pulled a vacuum and recharged and now everything is okay, then chances are you still have a leak and its just a matter of time before you start observing cooling issues again.
So a final update (I hope ), After the dye had been added and we could determine that the A/C was not very effective , a stripdown revealed a badly leaking condensor which was replaced along with the receiver /drier, TQ valve and the two cabin filters, The A/C now cools really well, as good as my wife's modern.
I'm sensing some conflicting info in the posts. An earlier post said that they pulled a vacuum and it held in the system. The last post stated that they had a badly leaking condensor. How can the system hold a vacuum and yet have a badly leaking condensor? The condensor is available and can be viewed by taking out the front fender inner liner. Wouldn't the dye show up there on a badly leaking condensor? Just wondering.
Just following up on this thread from some months ago. It hit 100F (38c) in Texas today in my black 993 with no sunshade.
Temperature at the outlets is a chilly 59F (15c). Car has original evaporater / condenser - had its first little top up of refrigerant last year.
No issues.
Meenrod, is your car a 95? Thats about the temp I get at the vents for my 95. All original parts on the car. I had the system vacuumed out and recharged last summer
I'm sensing some conflicting info in the posts. An earlier post said that they pulled a vacuum and it held in the system. The last post stated that they had a badly leaking condensor. How can the system hold a vacuum and yet have a badly leaking condensor? The condensor is available and can be viewed by taking out the front fender inner liner. Wouldn't the dye show up there on a badly leaking condensor? Just wondering.
JC 98 C2S widebody
He's on the other side of the pond. you have print out the email, place it in front of a mirror (upside down) and read it in that fashion.
01-10-2019, 04:25 AM
