MB965

Needing to replace the almost 24 year old hose in the oil return line. My best price for 993 207 252 83 is $618. Frustration is the stainless steel tubing is fine but the rubber hose section is not directly replaceable.

Considering making weld-on fittings to adapt to JIC 37-16 stainless braided hose.
Anyone go the route of fabricating a replace line?

Attached a photo of a modified wrench I made for the engine end of the return line. Works perfect.
Mike

pp000830

That's one clean engine! I suspect if you bring the hose assembly to a hydraulic hose servicing company they can reuse the steel terminations and refresh the hose sections for a lot less than buying the OE replacement part. Hydraulic hose servicing companies have field trucks who service heavy construction equipment on site. There are one or more of these companies in most any town.
Here is an example I found via Google :
https://www.pirtekusa.com/?gclid=EAI...SAAEgLhHfD_BwE

Andy

k722070

see if there is a local 'EVCO house of hose' they make all types of pressure hose lines.

I'd be interested to see some pics of how you take apart/get at the other end of that hose below the tank, tight space.

it would also be interesting if you would break new ground and replace the oem with some of the super flex braided ptfe oil line and fittings.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gr...pID=PLUMANFLEX

MB965

Thanks. Once you get the factory coating off it is easy to keep clean.
Been to an Aeroquip hydraulics shop. They do everything with a hose. They had a few options but they all involved mechanical attachment to the tubing.
I want a welded connection. A stainless male AN plug, machined to the tubing OD and tig welded is achievable for a skilled welder.

pp000830

She's may be an expensive date considering the previous hose's attachment method has until now lasted twenty years and what you want may simply be unobtainium as a standard fitting

MB965

Line out. Very tight coming out but doable with the transmission out of car.
Appears the fittings are brazed on.
Next is fabricating and attaching the hose fittings. Using 16 AN G-Line XF 811 hose.

993c4ie

Hi,
I need to remove that oil return file on crankcase side to drop the engine. The "wide" (on the line itself) nut is "welded" from rust and i can't unscrew it.
It turns a tiny bit but with the narrower one, so unscrewing the 2 off the case, and stressing the line from rotational force.

Image taken from Toga's "engine drop" thread,... my bible at the moment!

Worse come to the worse, i 'll cut the pipe....but it could be a pricey cut considering the price of the part.
The pipe diameter is 22.5 mm (7/8").
Has anybody source compression fittings for it?
Thanks

95_993

Have you tried getting an extra thin wrench on the thin nut on the case to prevent it from turning?

This thin wrench requires a little grinding but is thin enough to get in there.

8MILELAKE 32MM & 36MM Fan Clutch Wrench Compatible for BMW Mercedes-Benz

jrmdir

I tried a thin open end wrench like that on mine. The problem is that there's almost no clearance around that fitting due to the cylinder oil tube and the orientation of the slot in the wrench is fixed. You need a 12 point wrench. Having just had mine apart, my advice would be to make yourself two flare nut wrenches just like the OP did. And then further modify one of them by grinding it thinner for that inner nut on the adapter fitting. That and start applying penetrating oil frequently over time before attempting. You might also try a little heat but that will also let the adapter turn more freely as it is installed by the factory with Loctite 270 (Thanks to Mike J for the info on this. - https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...il-change.html)

993c4ie

Thanks for your feedback.
I have ordered spare 32mm spanners. I will grind it so it fits onto that fittings while unscrewing the nut with an other spanner.
I have also ordered a fire extinguisher before i go in there with a torch.
As it turns out, the cylinder oil tube is of collapsible type as i changed it a couple of years ago, and i have got 3 more spares. So i can remove it if necessary.
So few options to try.....
Many thanks for your help.

993c4ie

Late update....
Before going with a blow torch, i used a heat gun. That generated enough heat to allow for the nut to come loose....Nuts was not welded from rust, somebody used some height strength thread locker.

95_993

Nicely done. Now the fun with your drop begins.

993c4ie

Happy Christmas......
There is a very slight oil leak on my engine from the connector (part # 999 136 008 09, see red arrow 32mm in above photo) which attaches the oil return line to the crankcase....
I made the mistake of not fully removing it, clean it, and screw it back with sealant when i removed the oil return line.

What sealant/paste should be applied please ?