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The bottom view of the fresh air servo looks something like the picture below with an oblong slot where the arm passes through its mounting frame. When the arm is 90 degrees to the slot it is easy to pop the arm off the plunger rod that attaches it to the vent flap. Once the plunger is detached moving the arm parallel to the slot facilitates removing the servo as the arm passes through the slot. If the motor is still working in the servo the arm can be moved between these two positions by having the key in the ignition on or ignition off positions. If turning the key does not cause the arm to move then a more invasive process outlined in my earlier posting above's URL attachment is what needs to be done. Here is the excerpt from that posting's thread:
"Detach the actuator rod and electrical connector from the footwell servo, just to the left (driver's side) of the fresh air servo. Using a #20 Torx on a flexible drive shaft, remove the two screws that hold the footwell servo bracket in place. Slide out the footwell servo. Pop of the actuator rod from the fresh air servo and remove the three screws that mount the servo to its bracket. Slide out the servo. (Remember, the motor in my servo was not working, hence I could not rotate the arm, and therefore the need to remove the adjacent servo.) My servo is now on its way to Partisan for a rebuild."
I just had this diagnosed on my car, same issue as you- heat at low speed but cold air at higher speeds. I had my mechanic run the diagnostic and in addition to the fresh air servo showing a fault the footwell servo was also kaput. He removed both and I sent them to Partisan in Germany to have them repaired. Total for two is $384 with shipping.
The danger with assuming it is just your fresh air servo at fault is you miss another faulty servo. For me it's worth it to take it to a mechanic to have it diagnosed. I personally don't have the time or inclination to run my own diagnostics with an OBD2 reader but plenty here do it successfully.
These cars have a hard time staying warm at speed in very cold weather as well. I have driven mine when it's zero or below and the motor barely heats up- so the heater doesn't work great either. I bypassed the rear spoiler so I can move it up and down with the switch, but it won't go up automatically. When the spoiler is down and I am running down the highway fast, the car will heat up much better than when the spoiler is up and the cabin will heat up. Minnesota will test the limits of the heater and the AC!
[QUOTE=PRSWILL;15489601]These cars have a hard time staying warm at speed in very cold weather as well. I have driven mine when it's zero or below and the motor barely heats up- so the heater doesn't work great either. I bypassed the rear spoiler so I can move it up and down with the switch, but it won't go up automatically. When the spoiler is down and I am running down the highway fast, the car will heat up much better than when the spoiler is up and the cabin will heat up. Minnesota will test the limits of the heater and the AC
12-10-2018, 10:16 AM
