badabing

I have not read through this thread but I recently acquired a set of minty shop manuals. If you would like copies of any wiring diagrams I am happy to oblige.

hkspwrsche

I guess I should update everyone.

As recommened, I went back to basics when I got back in town this weekend. I made the Y connector in case all three of my spare relays were bad from bouncing around in the pocket. Still no start.

I checked for power at the pin three DME relay socket. That’s good at 12.53 volts.

I’ll see if I can understand the diag pages from here rather than throw parts at it.

IainM

Just follow Loren & Alex's guidance. Their approach will identify the bad component and then you can replace in confidence.
good luck

kevin2012

Is your car running again yet? Currently I am having a no start problem just like yours and do not have a clue at all. Cheers.

kevin2012

I had found my problem, the cylinder head temp sensor wire was loosen, it is located on the left front corner of the engine and need to remove the heater fan in the engine room in order to see it. I connected it again and it started right up.
Hope this help.

BobbyT

From my experience, you won't hear the fuel pump running when you turn the key to the "on" position. It doesn't get power until the engine is actually being cranked over, or is running. This is a safety feature. I have the Ftech9 Solid-State DME "Pump Prime" relay installed, which is designed to run the fuel pump for three seconds prior to starting, and I can now hear a distinct hum when I turn the key to "on" that wasn't there with the stock relay installed.

cpdjfd107

I have the solid state relay as well and if it primes it for 3 seconds does that mean I shouldn't be just cranking the car over after inserting the key? Should I be turning it to on and waiting 3 seconds before I crank to start? If I just insert key and crank and I'm defeating the purpose of the fuel prime?

BobbyT

cpdjfd107,

Focus 9 Technology made two versions of the 993 DME solid state relay, one that performs just as the stock item, and one that has the "pump prime" feature. Whichever one you have, you can start the car just as you have before. If you have the "pump prime" one, you can enjoy the "hum" before cranking if you choose, but there is no need to wait.

hkspwrsche

Fuel pump confirmed as dead in need of replacement. Light clunk when bypassed at the relay area. Runs on starter fluid. Bench test 12v direct to pump will not cause it to run.


Areas that mislead me, no tach bounce when cranking. It still didn’t bounce when it ran. Maybe it was cold but, when it ran on starting fluid, it took a second to move to 900 rpm. Also, traveling for work all the time means when I get home, I often am catching up on family stuff so, if the car doesn’t just fire and run, I don’t have a lot of time for it.

Churchill

This was the first reply to this thread. If you'd taken this gentleman's advice you would have diagnosed the problem in about 30 seconds. You said yourself in your first post you couldn't hear the fuel pump running when you turned the key to on. But it was the last thing you decided to check. Weird.