Cranks but won’t start -DME is good
11-25-2018, 09:33 AM
#46
11-25-2018, 09:38 AM
#47
nor the RPM sensor control the power to the coils?
11-26-2018, 10:46 AM
#48
Sure! Just checked my manual (1994) for the car! Alarm is activated by locking one of the doors with the key. The ignition is blocked as long as the alarm is activated. Blocked ignition = Immobiiser.
But if You have the ten seconds of fast flashing red door lights when You lock the car the system is probably not the cause of Your problems.
But if You have the ten seconds of fast flashing red door lights when You lock the car the system is probably not the cause of Your problems.
Last edited by Railmaster.; 11-26-2018 at 02:37 PM. Reason: Typo
11-26-2018, 02:33 PM
#49
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Thread Starter
I was not aware that the DME control unit had nothing to do with power to the coils.
Is there a particular path for the coil power and normal mode of failure I can check?
Should I have 12v while cranking or just key on? Just checking the two black&green/stripe wires going into the coil?
I’m trying to decipher the wiring diagram Andy graciously sent. I see an “ignition control unit” before the coil and then those wires go back to “control unit Mfi-di”
Last edited by hkspwrsche; 11-26-2018 at 04:12 PM.
11-26-2018, 03:18 PM
#50
That 12 volts comes from the ignition switch (#15) which also powers the injectors. Hopefully, someone didn't add an aftermarket alarm function to control that voltage.
The black wires on the coils supplies the 12 volts. You can jumper that point to the plus terminal of the battery with the key-on and attempt to start the engine.
The black wires on the coils supplies the 12 volts. You can jumper that point to the plus terminal of the battery with the key-on and attempt to start the engine.
12V is always there while key-on or cranking.
11-26-2018, 04:04 PM
#51
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Thread Starter
That 12 volts comes from the ignition switch (#15) which also powers the injectors. Hopefully, someone didn't add an aftermarket alarm function to control that voltage.
The black wires on the coils supplies the 12 volts. You can jumper that point to the plus terminal of the battery with the key-on and attempt to start the engine.
The black wires on the coils supplies the 12 volts. You can jumper that point to the plus terminal of the battery with the key-on and attempt to start the engine.
The above line referencing 12 volts coming from the ignition switch is actually what caused me to clarify whether you meant ignition in “on” position or ignition turned to “start”. Thanks again.
11-26-2018, 04:14 PM
#52
if that's the extent of your problems.
11-29-2018, 05:32 PM
#53
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Thread Starter
After review of the diagram, I realized that I used the black and green wires as the only ground and power test. I went back last night and checked them and if I use the chassis as a ground then I’m getting 12v to the coil black wire. It seems I have no ground at the green wire. During my original check (pre wiring diagram) I was not sure which was positive or negative and just tried to pick up 12v from the wires going to the coil.
So based on the diagram the next place to check would put me back to the ignition module, yes? That leads me to where Alex was headed.
So based on the diagram the next place to check would put me back to the ignition module, yes? That leads me to where Alex was headed.
11-29-2018, 06:12 PM
#54
Rennlist Member
The DME Diagnosis section describes a whole bunch of tests that you should consider. Well beyond just the ignition module.
11-29-2018, 06:29 PM
#55
Rennlist Member
You claim it is not a DME issue but as you stated it is a 1995 which means it has a separate ignition module.
Both coils do not fire as you claim. And I find it hard to believe that both coil drivers in the module are gone...at the same time. So you either do not have a signal to fire the module or the module is gone or you have a wring or grounding issue.
Pin 4 of the module on Sheet 5 goes to 31, a ground which is found at D133 (Sheet 14). See the J43 on Sheet 14? That tells you where it came from on Sheet 5.
On Sheet 14 that is linked to GP V. Go to the top right of Sheet 14 and GP V is located at 8eP.
Locate 8eP on the vehicle shown on Sheet 14.
Bingo...right under the driver's seat. Who knows, maybe some water got in there and it is corroded. It a simple check.
11-29-2018, 07:02 PM
#56
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
1) Do you have a full set of electrical schematics? Or at least Sheet 5 and Sheet 14?
You claim it is not a DME issue but as you stated it is a 1995 which means it has a separate ignition module.
Both coils do not fire as you claim. And I find it hard to believe that both coil drivers in the module are gone...at the same time. So you either do not have a signal to fire the module or the module is gone or you have a wring or grounding issue.
Pin 4 of the module on Sheet 5 goes to 31, a ground which is found at D133 (Sheet 14). See the J43 on Sheet 14? That tells you where it came from on Sheet 5.
On Sheet 14 that is linked to GP V. Go to the top right of Sheet 14 and GP V is located at 8eP.
Locate 8eP on the vehicle shown on Sheet 14.
Bingo...right under the driver's seat. Who knows, maybe some water got in there and it is corroded. It a simple check.
You claim it is not a DME issue but as you stated it is a 1995 which means it has a separate ignition module.
Both coils do not fire as you claim. And I find it hard to believe that both coil drivers in the module are gone...at the same time. So you either do not have a signal to fire the module or the module is gone or you have a wring or grounding issue.
Pin 4 of the module on Sheet 5 goes to 31, a ground which is found at D133 (Sheet 14). See the J43 on Sheet 14? That tells you where it came from on Sheet 5.
On Sheet 14 that is linked to GP V. Go to the top right of Sheet 14 and GP V is located at 8eP.
Locate 8eP on the vehicle shown on Sheet 14.
Bingo...right under the driver's seat. Who knows, maybe some water got in there and it is corroded. It a simple check.
Thanks
11-30-2018, 01:35 AM
#57
After review of the diagram, I realized that I used the black and green wires as the only ground and power test. I went back last night and checked them and if I use the chassis as a ground then I’m getting 12v to the coil black wire. It seems I have no ground at the green wire. During my original check (pre wiring diagram) I was not sure which was positive or negative and just tried to pick up 12v from the wires going to the coil.
So based on the diagram the next place to check would put me back to the ignition module, yes? That leads me to where Alex was headed.
So based on the diagram the next place to check would put me back to the ignition module, yes? That leads me to where Alex was headed.
If the light doesn't flash, then you need to check for signals at the input to the ignition module with a volt meter (the voltage will vary while cranking). You keep "moving
back" to the DME ECM in troubleshooting. Once there, you then check the DME ECM's key inputs.
11-30-2018, 09:00 AM
#58
RL Community Team
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Andy
https://www.ebay.com/itm/EONE-ET201-2-in-1-digital-intelligent-portable-storage-oscilloscope-multimeter/332753588715?epid=21020221975&hash=item4d79a8d1eb:g:gFEAAOSw0HFbarkL:rk: 1
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11-30-2018, 09:51 AM
#59
Rennlist Member
So you used the test light to check for a flashing signal (green wire) on the coils, right? If the light flashes, then pull a coil wire and place it very close to some engine metal.
If the light doesn't flash, then you need to check for signals at the input to the ignition module with a volt meter (the voltage will vary while cranking). You keep "moving
back" to the DME ECM in troubleshooting. Once there, you then check the DME ECM's key inputs.
If the light doesn't flash, then you need to check for signals at the input to the ignition module with a volt meter (the voltage will vary while cranking). You keep "moving
back" to the DME ECM in troubleshooting. Once there, you then check the DME ECM's key inputs.