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I have a couple of oil leaks on my 95’ ROW C2 and since I wanted to change the flywheel and clutch anyways I have decided to pull the engine.
I haven’t identified all the leaks yet since the engine is very oily. Unfortunately it’s too late now to clean and run the engine since everything is already disconnected.
Is there a list of parts to properly reseal everything that typically develops leaks over time?
Are any special tools required (I believe the timing chains have to come off)??
I appreciate the help. I’m doing all of this for the first time in case it wasn’t obvious
Even though the engine maybe covered with oil and dirt, I still would clean as much as possible. Sounds like you have the knowledge to go further as you already dropped the engine.
I'm doing the same though LWF aleady in.
My leaks are from r/h lower and upper cam covers. Cranckase breather at the pipe crankase union, The bridge over the chain cover r/h (pretty common). My RMS is ok but you will be able so check yours. The chain housing gaskets and cam gaskets/o-rings are other potential leaks and will require removal of chains and sprockets (beyond my expertise and tools)). I have a leak from the horizontal pressure relief valve (the worst) it must have been disturbed at some time in mistake for the oil drain. Strangely l/h side is dry and I did the chain covers last year. This is a good reference :- http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/9...aingaskets.htm
Dropping the engine isn't too hard if you have a good guide to follow (Bentley Manual in my case). The hardest part until now was removing the heat-exchangers since some of the nuts are hard to reach (may be easier with some special tool). Actually dropping it is my plan for Saturday but I do not expect any problems from now on.
Thank you @Endoman for the list of and the link. I doubt I can get around changing the changing the chain housing gaskets. The first picture shows the oil puddle on the left hand side heat-exchanger - I believe most of it came from the chain housing...
in house gasket since that is where most of the oil is coming from
Something that is easy to do is the power steering pump belt.
Mine sheared because of one of the bolts that attached the pump to the engine came loose.
Really big PIA with many curse words trying to install a new one in while the engine is in. So simple to check the bolts are tightened to spec and the belt in good shape with engine out!
I'd replace those rusty oil return pipes, I've had one rot through. Nice and easy with the heat exchangers off. Well done that man
Thanks - that is already on my list. However I have seen that there are two options steel and aluminium (aftermarket). Is there a clear recommendation which one to use? Cost is about the same.
Originally Posted by Endoman
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Originally Posted by samurai_k
Something that is easy to do is the power steering pump belt.
Mine sheared because of one of the bolts that attached the pump to the engine came loose.
Really big PIA with many curse words trying to install a new one in while the engine is in. So simple to check the bolts are tightened to spec and the belt in good shape with engine out!
Thanks - these are exactly the tips I was hoping for. I will probably replace it just to be safe.
Be aware there is no need to remove the engine to service a clutch or flywheel on a 993.
If you are to go for it anyway consider the following if they have not been done once before and your vehicle has 60K or more miles on it.
Hydraulic lifter cartridges - the seals on them begin to fail for many in the 60-80K miles range
Ignition wires - Threading them around the engine should be a lot easier engine-out
Spark plugs - Much easier to get to
Power steering belt - much easier to get to although an experienced technician can replace it in place
If you've got the engine out, on a stand, and stripped down to the longblock, IMHO you'd be crazy not to do a top end rebuild (valve guides) and probably rings. Where you are right now, it's 25% more labor and a little more money. I would do rings, cylinder base o-rings, case through-bolt o-rings (do them carefully and one at a time), rebuild heads, check cams for pitting. In the course of this work you'll reseal the engine -- chain boxes and covers, valve covers, etc.
Be aware there is no need to remove the engine to service a clutch or flywheel on a 993.
If you are to go for it anyway consider the following if they have not been done once before and your vehicle has 60K or more miles on it.
Hydraulic lifter cartridges - the seals on them begin to fail for many in the 60-80K miles range
Ignition wires - Threading them around the engine should be a lot easier engine-out
Spark plugs - Much easier to get to
Power steering belt - much easier to get to although an experienced technician can replace it in place
Lifters and ignition wires are a very good addtion to the list! Spark plugs and power steering belt (has also been suggested by @samurai_k) will be done as well.
Originally Posted by Churchill
If you've got the engine out, on a stand, and stripped down to the longblock, IMHO you'd be crazy not to do a top end rebuild (valve guides) and probably rings. Where you are right now, it's 25% more labor and a little more money. I would do rings, cylinder base o-rings, case through-bolt o-rings (do them carefully and one at a time), rebuild heads, check cams for pitting. In the course of this work you'll reseal the engine -- chain boxes and covers, valve covers, etc.
Wow - this is a whole new level but probably worth thinking about. I wasn't planning on stripping the top end of the engine any further than necessary and apart from the oil spewing it has been running reliable and strong. Is there any way to assess the condition of the valve guides without removing the heads first?
Something like the service offered HERE will probably contain everything you mentioned - correct?
Lifters and ignition wires are a very good addtion to the list! Spark plugs and power steering belt (has also been suggested by @samurai_k) will be done as well.
Wow - this is a whole new level but probably worth thinking about. I wasn't planning on stripping the top end of the engine any further than necessary and apart from the oil spewing it has been running reliable and strong. Is there any way to assess the condition of the valve guides without removing the heads first?
Something like the service offered HERE will probably contain everything you mentioned - correct?
Personally, I wouldn’t do a top end until it needs it. Mine is at 133k, has never been opened up, and is running strong.
Same principle as elective surgery. Make sure the benefit outweighs the risks and costs.
11-15-2018, 09:08 AM
Engine Out Service - what to do
