Alternator belt tension woes
#1
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Thread Starter
Alternator belt tension woes
I know there are lots of threads but nothing is answering me question. I installed 3 new aftermarket belts, 2 days ago I turned on the heater and could smell a burning belt smell. It was raining that evening. next day no issues, yesterday I washed the car started it and heard a belt squeal. the alternator belt seems to be the issue, What I cant seem to find is a direct way to tighten it, do I remove a shim to tighten it?
#2
Yes, remove a shim to tighten. V-belts work beautifully when installed correctly, but can be challenging for newbies. I would spend a little time learning how everything works and what each part does. Then it'll all make sense.
Removing a shim tightens the belt by narrowing the distance between the pulley halves, forcing the belt to ride higher on the pulley, increasing its distance from the lower pulley, resulting in a tighter belt. Study up and you'll be in good shape.
Removing a shim tightens the belt by narrowing the distance between the pulley halves, forcing the belt to ride higher on the pulley, increasing its distance from the lower pulley, resulting in a tighter belt. Study up and you'll be in good shape.
#3
RL Community Team
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Rennlist Member
If the old belts broke causing the need for replacement, I would make sure any belt debris that got in or through the fan is cleared away as it seems reasonable to me that belt shards being cooked probably can also cause some smells.
Also, I strongly recommend using a belt tensioning gauge such as the one offered by Gates to test belt tension. My view is that the least tension that eliminates squealing is desirable as over-tensioning can be a cause of fan blade damage and potentially premature fan & alternator bearing failure. In my experience if you are needing to remove shims to make a new replacement belt not slip something is up, possibly the shims were not replaced as they were originally sequenced on the pulley shaft.
Also, I feel the TSB sited Factory Pully Update is worth doing. If your Pulley haves are silver stamped metal the update has not been done on your car as the update parts are gold chromate. Since there is a TSB issued on this I would check if the dealer will do it for you free of charge. If not the parts are not expensive.
Just some thoughts,
Andy
Also, I strongly recommend using a belt tensioning gauge such as the one offered by Gates to test belt tension. My view is that the least tension that eliminates squealing is desirable as over-tensioning can be a cause of fan blade damage and potentially premature fan & alternator bearing failure. In my experience if you are needing to remove shims to make a new replacement belt not slip something is up, possibly the shims were not replaced as they were originally sequenced on the pulley shaft.
Also, I feel the TSB sited Factory Pully Update is worth doing. If your Pulley haves are silver stamped metal the update has not been done on your car as the update parts are gold chromate. Since there is a TSB issued on this I would check if the dealer will do it for you free of charge. If not the parts are not expensive.
Just some thoughts,
Andy
#4
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the input guys just what I needed. The pulleys are original so I will see about getting those replaced. Luckily I didn't have a fan belt break so no shards and I'm almost certain the shims went back in order. It may be an issue with the after market belt.
#5
Banned
USE OEM BELTS > Unless stuck. Likely your problem = squeeling
If Burning Snapping
Usual problem after installing new belts is placement of parts
There is a schematic here in PDF - Adobe Acrobat
And a Pic > The usual suspect
link
If Burning Snapping
Usual problem after installing new belts is placement of parts
There is a schematic here in PDF - Adobe Acrobat
And a Pic > The usual suspect
link
PIC ON POST # 58 HERE:
My reply starts #48 for stock pulley halveshttps://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/991395-is-the-upgraded-alternator-pulley-worth-it-4.html=left
So install these two parts.=left
Next, Put in 3 - 7mm spacers for New Belt installation ( the spacer with a circular drilled hole), or 4 - 5mm=left
Next, install the second pulley half=left
=left
Next install the washer # 16=left
Next=left
Install # 15=left
Remember wide part of .#15 against the back of second alternator pulley half (the smaller pulley half)=left
=left
Locking Bolt > Tighten to proper torque=left
Done
My reply starts #48 for stock pulley halveshttps://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/991395-is-the-upgraded-alternator-pulley-worth-it-4.html=left
So install these two parts.=left
Next, Put in 3 - 7mm spacers for New Belt installation ( the spacer with a circular drilled hole), or 4 - 5mm=left
Next, install the second pulley half=left
=left
Next install the washer # 16=left
Next=left
Install # 15=left
Remember wide part of .#15 against the back of second alternator pulley half (the smaller pulley half)=left
=left
Locking Bolt > Tighten to proper torque=left
Done
#7
Advanced
Thread Starter
Thanks TJ993, Thats excellent information. I am going to order new pulleys since the stock pulleys are worn and well polished, as well as as OEM belts and keep the aftermarket for spares.
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#8
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IMHO, the best belts are the genuine Porsche ones, the ones that come in sleeves marked Porsche and that say "Porsche" on the belt itself. There is some special magic about these belts, could be the way they flex, or something else that is not obvious, but they fit perfectly and don't trigger any misfire fault codes. Even the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer), made by perhaps the same factory that makes the genuine Porsche ones, can cause problems. Not worth risking trouble to save a few dollars.
#9
Burning Brakes
OEM Porsche branded belts differ not because of "magic". They have differing serrations on the inner circumference, more of them spaced closed together, and slightly differing outer circumferences- only a few mm, but the combo triggered CEL in my car- and others. The non-Porsche belts were also Danco, but not "Porsche Danco", as mentioned.
Steve Weiner states this regularly.
Steve Weiner states this regularly.
#10
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Thread Starter
in the middle of purchasing a new pulley for the alternator. I can t find the "inner" pulley on Pelican parts, only the outer Part #: 993-106-268-01-M100. Can I purchase 2 outer pulleys witch negates both pulley sleeves. Sorry if this is a stupid question but even their how to shows the upgraded pulley but no part numbers.
#12
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#13
Burning Brakes
Thanks, Andreas. Knew that, but careless.
There's a comparison chart somewhere(can't find now) that gives measurements of 993 belts by manufacture, including generic Dayco, OEM Porsche Dayco, Gates. It reveals slight differences in mm among them- circumference, width. Serrations on the inner circumferences differed on my fan belt, as previously noted. Whatever, the generic triggered the CEL which disappeared after swapped for a new OEM..
There's a comparison chart somewhere(can't find now) that gives measurements of 993 belts by manufacture, including generic Dayco, OEM Porsche Dayco, Gates. It reveals slight differences in mm among them- circumference, width. Serrations on the inner circumferences differed on my fan belt, as previously noted. Whatever, the generic triggered the CEL which disappeared after swapped for a new OEM..