Flying Finn

The normal jacking points?

My problem is that previous owner had my car towed once (because of flat tyre, too lazy for changing spare...) and 'smart' towing guy used front jacking points for hooking the car up to the flat bed.
So, they're kinda 'busted', they'd need little welding, which would be simple to do, but I rather not do that, because that burns the calvanizing at the same time & in the long run (even if painted well) might end up causing rusting.

So, are there any other places (front) where 993 can be jacked up?

Thanks!

Greg Fishman

FF,
Not really a jack point but you could use a long 2x6 or 2x8 and place it on your jack and lift just in front of the steering rack. The board will distribute the weight. The metal in the trunk area is thin so don't try it with just the jack.

E. J. - 993 Alumni

[quote]Originally posted by Greg Fishman:
<strong> The metal in the trunk area is thin so don't try it with just the jack.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Whats a few dents in the underside? LOL! No one checks that in a PPI anyway.

I agree with Greg, but the problem is that with a lowered car, there will be no way to get a floor jack back to the A arms or even back to where Greg is talking about. I use a big square piece of 3/4 inch plywood and put it as far back as I can get the jack and pump away. Works great and I get both fronts off the ground at once. Even better would be a square piece of flat steel to do the same job.

E. J.

Robert Henriksen

I watched a mechanic ( ) move the two-post lift arm *off* the front jacking point & place it on the floorboard of the car, a few inches away. He was trying to remove the black plastic cover under the sill, and couldn't get to all the screws. That made me pretty nervous, but the car seemed to survive okay.

Especially when using a board to distribute the load, I guess you could run w. this

Flying Finn

Thanks guys!

Since this is for occasions where I want to jack the whole car up, I hope I'll be able to reach the area Greg is saying (by jacking one side up from rear jacking point, place one stand & 2x6 or square plywood, then other side, same thing).

I need to practice & see how it goes...

Mike J

Quick Question : If your front jack points are torn up, would it not stand to reason that exposed metal is there anyways? I know that you can get significant "creep" from galvanization, but its only good for scratches, not tears in the metal. Maybe a little paint should protect it more?

Cheers!

Mike

bet

I am assuming busted means the area is sort of bent and torn at the same time, thus eliminating a nice spot to place the jack, but with the structural integrity of the frame in tack, why not use a section of 2x4 or better yet a nice piece of metal you have fabricated to fit your jack and place it between the jack point (spreading out a little past the edges of the jack point) and the jack. This would place the load on the correct part of the car.

Flying Finn

Actually, they're both little loose. Especially the passenger side. I can jack the car up, but that bends the 'jacking point'.
It's only attached to the body of the car from one point (normally three points, it seems) and that's why it can't hold.

I already painted them with this paintable 'rubber' paint (will paint with G. Red later) so I'm not worried about scratches etc. but if I weld it, clav. & paint will burn up from inside also.