Solid or Rubber Subframe Mounts
#31
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I run my car at RSR height
My plans are 114 front and probably - with solid subframe mounts - 107 rear.
I noticed your solid mounts are different, and I wasn't able to find the Rennline kit (with all right length screws) without the tilt kit as you suggested me to look for.
So basically there isn't all that ride comfort difference between monoballs and RS harder bushings set up, it is more about precision and durability.
Probably it is a matter of individual taste...
#32
so you must be approx. 100mm front and 95mm rear, right?
My plans are 114 front and probably - with solid subframe mounts - 107 rear.
I noticed your solid mounts are different, and I wasn't able to find the Rennline kit (with all right length screws) without the tilt kit as you suggested me to look for.
So basically there isn't all that ride comfort difference between monoballs and RS harder bushings set up, it is more about precision and durability.
Probably it is a matter of individual taste...
My plans are 114 front and probably - with solid subframe mounts - 107 rear.
I noticed your solid mounts are different, and I wasn't able to find the Rennline kit (with all right length screws) without the tilt kit as you suggested me to look for.
So basically there isn't all that ride comfort difference between monoballs and RS harder bushings set up, it is more about precision and durability.
Probably it is a matter of individual taste...
#33
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Wow, this set up looks...wow!
And what a picture...having a RS following you, beauties dancing on the track
I am sammling the things, and arrived to the point I have to do things with a certain order: that's why I am going to put the harder bushings and replace the front and rear train updating them to RS, adding the RS sway bar at the place of the M030.
Reading and watching the sites, I noticed Tarett has both of the kits for the solid subframe mounts, one with ( Par t#RL-SB656676) and the other without the tilt kit (Part #RL-SB655976): probably it is a very obvious question, but what is the difference between the 2 kits?
I figured me out the one with the tilt kit has a spacer to recreate the standard height of the standard bushings (that's why two screws are longer): did I get it right?
And what a picture...having a RS following you, beauties dancing on the track
I am sammling the things, and arrived to the point I have to do things with a certain order: that's why I am going to put the harder bushings and replace the front and rear train updating them to RS, adding the RS sway bar at the place of the M030.
Reading and watching the sites, I noticed Tarett has both of the kits for the solid subframe mounts, one with ( Par t#RL-SB656676) and the other without the tilt kit (Part #RL-SB655976): probably it is a very obvious question, but what is the difference between the 2 kits?
I figured me out the one with the tilt kit has a spacer to recreate the standard height of the standard bushings (that's why two screws are longer): did I get it right?
#34
Wow, this set up looks...wow!
And what a picture...having a RS following you, beauties dancing on the track
I am sammling the things, and arrived to the point I have to do things with a certain order: that's why I am going to put the harder bushings and replace the front and rear train updating them to RS, adding the RS sway bar at the place of the M030.
Reading and watching the sites, I noticed Tarett has both of the kits for the solid subframe mounts, one with ( Par t#RL-SB656676) and the other without the tilt kit (Part #RL-SB655976): probably it is a very obvious question, but what is the difference between the 2 kits?
I figured me out the one with the tilt kit has a spacer to recreate the standard height of the standard bushings (that's why two screws are longer): did I get it right?
And what a picture...having a RS following you, beauties dancing on the track
I am sammling the things, and arrived to the point I have to do things with a certain order: that's why I am going to put the harder bushings and replace the front and rear train updating them to RS, adding the RS sway bar at the place of the M030.
Reading and watching the sites, I noticed Tarett has both of the kits for the solid subframe mounts, one with ( Par t#RL-SB656676) and the other without the tilt kit (Part #RL-SB655976): probably it is a very obvious question, but what is the difference between the 2 kits?
I figured me out the one with the tilt kit has a spacer to recreate the standard height of the standard bushings (that's why two screws are longer): did I get it right?
In addition the tilt kit makes for an awkward solution to bolting up the front cross member
also the tilt kits don't move the suspension up into the chassis like the flat do, so the rear geometry camber & toe curves don't get the correction that the flat gives. Of course that's only important below RS height
#35
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Will the car be streetable (paying attention to bumps) at 115mm height (the minimum height Bill said it has a sense to put solid mounts on) with RS-Clubsport front spoiler or at such height is it necessary to trail it?
#36
The lower you go the more speedbumps and pot holes and even road patches become an issue, The severity depends on local conditions. I run mine at 94/98mm and need to avoid most any speedbump, driveway transitions are generally on 3 wheels
#37
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thank you for your answer Bill: so, if you are able to ride drive your car at such a low set up on the public roads, it wouldn't be easy in any case, but easier to drive with a 15 mm higher set up.
And on your car you have installed the solid subframe mounts without the tilt kit 94/98mm front/rear height
And on your car you have installed the solid subframe mounts without the tilt kit 94/98mm front/rear height
Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 12-03-2018 at 04:04 PM. Reason: forgot to add details
#38
Thank you for your answer Bill: so, if you are able to ride drive your car at such a low set up on the public roads, it wouldn't be easy in any case, but easier to drive with a 15 mm higher set up.
And on your car you have installed the solid subframe mounts without the tilt kit 94/98mm front/rear height
And on your car you have installed the solid subframe mounts without the tilt kit 94/98mm front/rear height
yes, I have the solid, flat subframe mounts
#39
Rennlist Member
Mine is about 120mm Front/110mm Rear
I have always approached driveways and speed bumps at an angle not to scrape for my lowered cars. No problem going over parking lot speed bumps and my "normal' driveway.
One thing to note is when you go this low it becomes hard to jack up your car.
I can barely slide in my low profile jack so I can jack the engine with a hockey puck to get it on my esco jack stands on their lowest point on the rear jack stands points before I switch to jack the front/frunk pan with a 2x6 it barely fits on the front... Slow process of going front to back for those of us who don't have a lift.
I have always approached driveways and speed bumps at an angle not to scrape for my lowered cars. No problem going over parking lot speed bumps and my "normal' driveway.
One thing to note is when you go this low it becomes hard to jack up your car.
I can barely slide in my low profile jack so I can jack the engine with a hockey puck to get it on my esco jack stands on their lowest point on the rear jack stands points before I switch to jack the front/frunk pan with a 2x6 it barely fits on the front... Slow process of going front to back for those of us who don't have a lift.
#40
Mine is about 120mm Front/110mm Rear
I have always approached driveways and speed bumps at an angle not to scrape for my lowered cars. No problem going over parking lot speed bumps and my "normal' driveway.
One thing to note is when you go this low it becomes hard to jack up your car.
I can barely slide in my low profile jack so I can jack the engine with a hockey puck to get it on my esco jack stands on their lowest point on the rear jack stands points before I switch to jack the front/frunk pan with a 2x6 it barely fits on the front... Slow process of going front to back for those of us who don't have a lift.
I have always approached driveways and speed bumps at an angle not to scrape for my lowered cars. No problem going over parking lot speed bumps and my "normal' driveway.
One thing to note is when you go this low it becomes hard to jack up your car.
I can barely slide in my low profile jack so I can jack the engine with a hockey puck to get it on my esco jack stands on their lowest point on the rear jack stands points before I switch to jack the front/frunk pan with a 2x6 it barely fits on the front... Slow process of going front to back for those of us who don't have a lift.
My home lift is set up for it but when I go to the shop, we usually have to place some 2'x2' ply wood blocks on the floor and rive up on them to allow the lift arms to swing under the car.
#41
Rennlist Member
@Bill
Why is your car 94mm front/98mm rear ride height? I studied the factory manual and recommendation for front was higher than rear and no more than 10mm.
Is it because you have solid subframe bushings as it lowers the rear of the car another 10mm so you need to lower the front another 10mm to balance it out?
Why is your car 94mm front/98mm rear ride height? I studied the factory manual and recommendation for front was higher than rear and no more than 10mm.
Is it because you have solid subframe bushings as it lowers the rear of the car another 10mm so you need to lower the front another 10mm to balance it out?
#42
Racer
Great post!
I plan on doing some more changes in my chassi in the future. Love all the knowledge some of you have and most importantly - share with the rest of us!
Thank you!
Patrik in Stockholm, Sweden
I plan on doing some more changes in my chassi in the future. Love all the knowledge some of you have and most importantly - share with the rest of us!
Thank you!
Patrik in Stockholm, Sweden
#43
@Bill
Why is your car 94mm front/98mm rear ride height? I studied the factory manual and recommendation for front was higher than rear and no more than 10mm.
Is it because you have solid subframe bushings as it lowers the rear of the car another 10mm so you need to lower the front another 10mm to balance it out?
Why is your car 94mm front/98mm rear ride height? I studied the factory manual and recommendation for front was higher than rear and no more than 10mm.
Is it because you have solid subframe bushings as it lowers the rear of the car another 10mm so you need to lower the front another 10mm to balance it out?
#45
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I finally got to the point of changing words into facts:
1) I am going to install the solid subframe mounts (without tilt kit), but frankly speaking, I don't find them on the rennline website. They have only the version with the tilt kit available.
where can I find the version without the tilt kit and correct screws length?
2) For the front I wanted since the very beginning to re-use my A-Arms, replacing the parts needed to make them exactly the same as RS A-Arms (or maybe preciser, if possible).
So I think I need to order:
- Front Ball Joints from Elephant Racing 1-99334104902 (are this exactly the same on both RS and normal 993 right?)
- Front Control Arm Front Bushing (ER) as is in the RS2290008-'89-'94 964, '95-'98 993, Sport Hardness
- Considering the front control arm rear bushing, better to change it with the stock hardness or with the sport hardness one?
3) Since I have any press, would you buy the tools from elephant racing to put those front parts in place? Did someone use them? are they effective?
4) I have ordered all the rear links original RS, so I don't need to change any bushing on the rear side, but is there something that I should purchase to make stock RS parts work better?
5) I saw Elephant Racing has Solid subframe bushings as well: are these going to reduce the height as well or not?
P.S. before ordering the parts I want to be sure to buy everything necessary, because these parts will have to be sent to Italy.
Something missing? Should I remove something?
1) I am going to install the solid subframe mounts (without tilt kit), but frankly speaking, I don't find them on the rennline website. They have only the version with the tilt kit available.
where can I find the version without the tilt kit and correct screws length?
2) For the front I wanted since the very beginning to re-use my A-Arms, replacing the parts needed to make them exactly the same as RS A-Arms (or maybe preciser, if possible).
So I think I need to order:
- Front Ball Joints from Elephant Racing 1-99334104902 (are this exactly the same on both RS and normal 993 right?)
- Front Control Arm Front Bushing (ER) as is in the RS2290008-'89-'94 964, '95-'98 993, Sport Hardness
- Considering the front control arm rear bushing, better to change it with the stock hardness or with the sport hardness one?
3) Since I have any press, would you buy the tools from elephant racing to put those front parts in place? Did someone use them? are they effective?
4) I have ordered all the rear links original RS, so I don't need to change any bushing on the rear side, but is there something that I should purchase to make stock RS parts work better?
5) I saw Elephant Racing has Solid subframe bushings as well: are these going to reduce the height as well or not?
P.S. before ordering the parts I want to be sure to buy everything necessary, because these parts will have to be sent to Italy.
Something missing? Should I remove something?
Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 01-29-2019 at 08:46 AM. Reason: forgot pic