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Solid or Rubber Subframe Mounts

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Old 07-04-2018, 09:50 AM
  #31  
nothingbutgt3
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I run my car at RSR height
so you must be approx. 100mm front and 95mm rear, right?

My plans are 114 front and probably - with solid subframe mounts - 107 rear.

I noticed your solid mounts are different, and I wasn't able to find the Rennline kit (with all right length screws) without the tilt kit as you suggested me to look for.

So basically there isn't all that ride comfort difference between monoballs and RS harder bushings set up, it is more about precision and durability.
Probably it is a matter of individual taste...
Old 07-04-2018, 01:54 PM
  #32  
Bill Verburg
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Originally Posted by nothingbutgt3
so you must be approx. 100mm front and 95mm rear, right?

My plans are 114 front and probably - with solid subframe mounts - 107 rear.

I noticed your solid mounts are different, and I wasn't able to find the Rennline kit (with all right length screws) without the tilt kit as you suggested me to look for.

So basically there isn't all that ride comfort difference between monoballs and RS harder bushings set up, it is more about precision and durability.
Probably it is a matter of individual taste...
mine is 94mm front and 98mm rear

Old 07-05-2018, 12:42 PM
  #33  
nothingbutgt3
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Wow, this set up looks...wow!
And what a picture...having a RS following you, beauties dancing on the track

I am sammling the things, and arrived to the point I have to do things with a certain order: that's why I am going to put the harder bushings and replace the front and rear train updating them to RS, adding the RS sway bar at the place of the M030.

Reading and watching the sites, I noticed Tarett has both of the kits for the solid subframe mounts, one with ( Par t#RL-SB656676) and the other without the tilt kit (Part #RL-SB655976): probably it is a very obvious question, but what is the difference between the 2 kits?
I figured me out the one with the tilt kit has a spacer to recreate the standard height of the standard bushings (that's why two screws are longer): did I get it right?
Old 07-05-2018, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by nothingbutgt3
Wow, this set up looks...wow!
And what a picture...having a RS following you, beauties dancing on the track

I am sammling the things, and arrived to the point I have to do things with a certain order: that's why I am going to put the harder bushings and replace the front and rear train updating them to RS, adding the RS sway bar at the place of the M030.

Reading and watching the sites, I noticed Tarett has both of the kits for the solid subframe mounts, one with ( Par t#RL-SB656676) and the other without the tilt kit (Part #RL-SB655976): probably it is a very obvious question, but what is the difference between the 2 kits?
I figured me out the one with the tilt kit has a spacer to recreate the standard height of the standard bushings (that's why two screws are longer): did I get it right?
the tilt kit strangely enough tilts the rear suspension, the flat does not. The effect of tilt is to add anti -squat, in a high hp application like a GT2 evo that is helpful, for a n/a 993 not so much.

In addition the tilt kit makes for an awkward solution to bolting up the front cross member



also the tilt kits don't move the suspension up into the chassis like the flat do, so the rear geometry camber & toe curves don't get the correction that the flat gives. Of course that's only important below RS height
Old 12-03-2018, 07:12 AM
  #35  
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Will the car be streetable (paying attention to bumps) at 115mm height (the minimum height Bill said it has a sense to put solid mounts on) with RS-Clubsport front spoiler or at such height is it necessary to trail it?
Old 12-03-2018, 11:02 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by nothingbutgt3
Will the car be streetable (paying attention to bumps) at 115mm height (the minimum height Bill said it has a sense to put solid mounts on) with RS-Clubsport front spoiler or at such height is it necessary to trail it?
The lower you go the more speedbumps and pot holes and even road patches become an issue, The severity depends on local conditions. I run mine at 94/98mm and need to avoid most any speedbump, driveway transitions are generally on 3 wheels
Old 12-03-2018, 04:02 PM
  #37  
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Thank you for your answer Bill: so, if you are able to ride drive your car at such a low set up on the public roads, it wouldn't be easy in any case, but easier to drive with a 15 mm higher set up.
And on your car you have installed the solid subframe mounts without the tilt kit 94/98mm front/rear height

Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 12-03-2018 at 04:04 PM. Reason: forgot to add details
Old 12-03-2018, 07:50 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by nothingbutgt3
Thank you for your answer Bill: so, if you are able to ride drive your car at such a low set up on the public roads, it wouldn't be easy in any case, but easier to drive with a 15 mm higher set up.
And on your car you have installed the solid subframe mounts without the tilt kit 94/98mm front/rear height
Yes, the higher the fewer potential issues

yes, I have the solid, flat subframe mounts
Old 12-03-2018, 11:25 PM
  #39  
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Mine is about 120mm Front/110mm Rear

I have always approached driveways and speed bumps at an angle not to scrape for my lowered cars. No problem going over parking lot speed bumps and my "normal' driveway.

One thing to note is when you go this low it becomes hard to jack up your car.

I can barely slide in my low profile jack so I can jack the engine with a hockey puck to get it on my esco jack stands on their lowest point on the rear jack stands points before I switch to jack the front/frunk pan with a 2x6 it barely fits on the front... Slow process of going front to back for those of us who don't have a lift.
Old 12-04-2018, 10:10 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by samurai_k
Mine is about 120mm Front/110mm Rear

I have always approached driveways and speed bumps at an angle not to scrape for my lowered cars. No problem going over parking lot speed bumps and my "normal' driveway.

One thing to note is when you go this low it becomes hard to jack up your car.

I can barely slide in my low profile jack so I can jack the engine with a hockey puck to get it on my esco jack stands on their lowest point on the rear jack stands points before I switch to jack the front/frunk pan with a 2x6 it barely fits on the front... Slow process of going front to back for those of us who don't have a lift.
I forgot about the lifting part

My home lift is set up for it but when I go to the shop, we usually have to place some 2'x2' ply wood blocks on the floor and rive up on them to allow the lift arms to swing under the car.
Old 12-04-2018, 12:45 PM
  #41  
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@Bill

Why is your car 94mm front/98mm rear ride height? I studied the factory manual and recommendation for front was higher than rear and no more than 10mm.

Is it because you have solid subframe bushings as it lowers the rear of the car another 10mm so you need to lower the front another 10mm to balance it out?
Old 12-05-2018, 04:41 AM
  #42  
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Great post!
I plan on doing some more changes in my chassi in the future. Love all the knowledge some of you have and most importantly - share with the rest of us!
Thank you!

Patrik in Stockholm, Sweden
Old 12-05-2018, 09:29 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by samurai_k
@Bill

Why is your car 94mm front/98mm rear ride height? I studied the factory manual and recommendation for front was higher than rear and no more than 10mm.

Is it because you have solid subframe bushings as it lowers the rear of the car another 10mm so you need to lower the front another 10mm to balance it out?
The car s setup that way to have a slight nose down for aero
Old 12-09-2018, 12:10 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
The car s setup that way to have a slight nose down for aero
Thanks!
Old 01-29-2019, 08:15 AM
  #45  
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I finally got to the point of changing words into facts:

1) I am going to install the solid subframe mounts (without tilt kit), but frankly speaking, I don't find them on the rennline website. They have only the version with the tilt kit available.
where can I find the version without the tilt kit and correct screws length?

2) For the front I wanted since the very beginning to re-use my A-Arms, replacing the parts needed to make them exactly the same as RS A-Arms (or maybe preciser, if possible).
So I think I need to order:
- Front Ball Joints from Elephant Racing 1-99334104902 (are this exactly the same on both RS and normal 993 right?)
- Front Control Arm Front Bushing (ER) as is in the RS2290008-'89-'94 964, '95-'98 993, Sport Hardness
- Considering the front control arm rear bushing, better to change it with the stock hardness or with the sport hardness one?

3) Since I have any press, would you buy the tools from elephant racing to put those front parts in place? Did someone use them? are they effective?

4) I have ordered all the rear links original RS, so I don't need to change any bushing on the rear side, but is there something that I should purchase to make stock RS parts work better?

5) I saw Elephant Racing has Solid subframe bushings as well: are these going to reduce the height as well or not?

P.S. before ordering the parts I want to be sure to buy everything necessary, because these parts will have to be sent to Italy.


Something missing? Should I remove something?

Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 01-29-2019 at 08:46 AM. Reason: forgot pic


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