Smoke on start-up - hot weather?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Smoke on start-up - hot weather?
Hi Everyone,
My 1995 C4 has about 97,000 miles from memory. The last few times I have used it I started it up and got a cloud of smoke - literally a big puff - which then went away. The first time I put it down to not having used it for almost a month but I then had to use the car a further two days in a row and it did the same thing. Are talking "normal for a 911" to sticking exhaust valves? Has anyone had this and what happened next? My garage suggested that I take a spirited drive one day then then leave it till the next day and see what happened. Sensible?
Cheers,
David
My 1995 C4 has about 97,000 miles from memory. The last few times I have used it I started it up and got a cloud of smoke - literally a big puff - which then went away. The first time I put it down to not having used it for almost a month but I then had to use the car a further two days in a row and it did the same thing. Are talking "normal for a 911" to sticking exhaust valves? Has anyone had this and what happened next? My garage suggested that I take a spirited drive one day then then leave it till the next day and see what happened. Sensible?
Cheers,
David
#5
Rennlist Member
There is no cheap Porsche ... Engine out / Top End Rebuild / $10K - $15K
#6
Three Wheelin'
Just a big puff on startup? It's probably just some oil that got sucked into the intake. Try to maintain your hot oil level around 1/3 up the twisted section on the dipstick. I bet the smoking goes away.
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So far I prefer mpruden's response the best! When you say "hot oil level around 1/3 up the twisted section on the dipstick" mine is always right at the top as I don't do mega mileage so it never really drops, I noticed this the day after a 30 C day (hot for us) when I had given the car a really good hard drive. On the hot day I found the engine fan had come back on once I put it in the garage and I ended up opening the garage and the engine lid so I wondered if it was anything to do with that?
Thanks,
David
Thanks,
David
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#8
Three Wheelin'
So far I prefer mpruden's response the best! When you say "hot oil level around 1/3 up the twisted section on the dipstick" mine is always right at the top as I don't do mega mileage so it never really drops, I noticed this the day after a 30 C day (hot for us) when I had given the car a really good hard drive. On the hot day I found the engine fan had come back on once I put it in the garage and I ended up opening the garage and the engine lid so I wondered if it was anything to do with that?
Thanks,
David
Thanks,
David
Many experts recommend keeping the oil (when up to operating temperature) below half way up the twisted section when checked with the dipstick. If it is near the top, it is most certainly overfilled, increasing the likelihood that some gets sucked in the intake manifold. A high ambient temperature will just make it worse as oil expands when heated.
You can get a fluid transfer pump at an auto parts store (around $10 here in the US) and pump some oil out of the oil tank until you get the proper level. I bet the smoking will get better over time as the residual oil in the intake is consumed.
#9
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#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Guys,
i should have been clearer when I said at the top I was referring to the gauge and not to the dip stick so I’ll take the car out this evening, get it warmed up and check the oil level. I’ll report back later.
Thanks,
David
i should have been clearer when I said at the top I was referring to the gauge and not to the dip stick so I’ll take the car out this evening, get it warmed up and check the oil level. I’ll report back later.
Thanks,
David
#11
If the oil level is high and you park on a slope the oil level in the sump may be a bit high at start up until the scavange side of the pump has cleared it so I've heard.
#12
Rennlist Member
#14
Race Car
Overfill will result in blue smoke out of one side and likely continue while driving.
Just to be clear, replacing valve seals is not a $10k, engine out or top end rebuild. It is a cheap viton seal on the valve stem that can replaced with the engine in the car.
Just to be clear, replacing valve seals is not a $10k, engine out or top end rebuild. It is a cheap viton seal on the valve stem that can replaced with the engine in the car.
#15
RL Technical Advisor