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Happy to report that we now have the first batch of the new 9mRS Billet Upright in stock and will be sending them out this week, as seen in the photo below.The 9m CNC machined billet uprights are made from high strength, solid HE30 (6082-T6) and are a direct replacement for the original 993RS components, having the same dimensions and resultant geometry. The uprights will be supplied in their as-machined condition to naturally anodise in use. Further details can be read here: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...roduction.html
The price is £2195 per pair, excluding VAT & shipping. Please email Freddie direct to parts@ninemeister.com for a Worldwide shipping quotation.
The uprights will be supplied in their as-machined condition to naturally anodise in use.
They look stunning. I don't know that I would call natural oxidation of raw aluminum to be anodizing though. Although type II anodizing is largely cosmetic, it does provide some basic protection. Surely, such a high dollar part could warrant simple clear type II?
They look stunning. I don't know that I would call natural oxidation of raw aluminum to be anodizing though. Although type II anodizing is largely cosmetic, it does provide some basic protection. Surely, such a high dollar part could warrant simple clear type II?
I discussed this in detail with the engineering shop who have a lot of experience making these parts for formula race cars and off-road racing vehicles. Anodising the whole part would obviously compromise the fit of the bearing and the steel inserts, so those areas would have to be left as-machined. Then when you weigh up the cost of making and fitting masks to cover the areas whilst anodising, then the obvious risk of finish damage whilst fitting bearings and inserts afterwards, you will understand why we have chose not to anodise. On a micro level, aluminium oxidises in air the moment it is exposed, hence we're only really slowing down the process. We did consider other finishes, like painting, but that would trap moisture and cause a greater corrosion issue. Finally you must also consider the factory part which, like all the sub-frames & other 993 suspension components, are left "as cast" and unprotected by Porsche, hence we don't anticipate corrosion as being an issue for the long life of the part.
I discussed this in detail with the engineering shop who have a lot of experience making these parts for formula race cars and off-road racing vehicles. Anodising the whole part would obviously compromise the fit of the bearing and the steel inserts, so those areas would have to be left as-machined. Then when you weigh up the cost of making and fitting masks to cover the areas whilst anodising, then the obvious risk of finish damage whilst fitting bearings and inserts afterwards, you will understand why we have chose not to anodise. On a micro level, aluminium oxidises in air the moment it is exposed, hence we're only really slowing down the process. We did consider other finishes, like painting, but that would trap moisture and cause a greater corrosion issue. Finally you must also consider the factory part which, like all the sub-frames & other 993 suspension components, are left "as cast" and unprotected by Porsche, hence we don't anticipate corrosion as being an issue for the long life of the part.
Great answer. It's good to hear that some though was put into the service finish. I was more giving a smart *** comment on the term "naturally anodize".
Type II anodizing comes as thin as 1 or 2 microns. Not enough to influence bearing or insert fitment. It can be made as thick as 20 microns in which case, the machinist will often accommodate for it during the production stage. If done in clear type II, finish damage during bearing install wouldn't really have been noticed as small scratches etc blend in with the natural aluminum appearance of clear anodizing. I agree that thick type II or the far more protective type III would not be appropriate without masking but regular type II should be achievable very inexpensively.
The rough cast appearance of the factory piece ages well simply due to the rough matte finish. Billet pieces with larger flat and shiny surfaces tend to age less gracefully in a service environment. That nasty, white, salt crystal like appearance will rapidly form especially on the little nooks that accumulate water. Then again, with the value of 993's nowadays, it's unlikely that these cars will be exposed to much road grime, salt etc so perhaps they will do just fine cosmetically. I know I just finished rubbing some suspension pieces on my 993 with some soft 100% cotton diapers I lovingly waxed said pieces with pure carnauba before reinstalling. I would probably do the same to your uprights if I had them!
Great answer. It's good to hear that some though was put into the service finish. I was more giving a smart *** comment on the term "naturally anodize".
Type II anodizing comes as thin as 1 or 2 microns. Not enough to influence bearing or insert fitment. It can be made as thick as 20 microns in which case, the machinist will often accommodate for it during the production stage. If done in clear type II, finish damage during bearing install wouldn't really have been noticed as small scratches etc blend in with the natural aluminum appearance of clear anodizing. I agree that thick type II or the far more protective type III would not be appropriate without masking but regular type II should be achievable very inexpensively.
The rough cast appearance of the factory piece ages well simply due to the rough matte finish. Billet pieces with larger flat and shiny surfaces tend to age less gracefully in a service environment. That nasty, white, salt crystal like appearance will rapidly form especially on the little nooks that accumulate water. Then again, with the value of 993's nowadays, it's unlikely that these cars will be exposed to much road grime, salt etc so perhaps they will do just fine cosmetically. I know I just finished rubbing some suspension pieces on my 993 with some soft 100% cotton diapers I lovingly waxed said pieces with pure carnauba before reinstalling. I would probably do the same to your uprights if I had them!
That's a useful insight, thank you, worth revisiting at a later stage when funds permit. I am currently investigating surface finishing machines for the shop (vapour blasting), so maybe will give a pair a try to see what finish we can achieve to replicate the cast part.
03-19-2018, 03:08 PM
9mRS Billet Upright - now shipping
I lovingly waxed said pieces with pure carnauba before reinstalling. I would probably do the same to your uprights if I had them!