haygeebaby

Before I installed mine - about 10 years ago - I looked at options.
Talked to lot of people - even the component manufacturers.
Simpler was better in my opinion.
If I had to do it all again I would go Motec (or similar).
Get it tuned right and protect your investment and maximize your enjoyment.
You'll probably need bigger injectors and change the stock FPR.
This option is going to cost the most. But then again - the SC is the best bang for buck for more bhp.

Protomotive tune is a good option. Makes things simple.
But this is not to say the TPC design is bad - it also works - and a lot of guys online run the TPC stock setup.

I remember someone on this forum had problems with their Split Second box and I sold him my box - and it fixed his problem.
You might want to search and see if you can find that guy and talk to him. Perhaps the same issues.

Good luck bro

haygeebaby

I just looked at my old emails and Sachin utilized my old UniQ box. You might want to PM him and see if he had a similar issue.

windydog

I had an airleak after the fan on alt which was shoving air anto maf sensor. This would explain rich condition.

Also split second gave me some advice on how to test the unit.

It was to late to start the car, so I will update in the am.

Porsche-ah

How'd you make out today?

windydog

The car idles good. I need to let the car idle and try to take for a ride. Hopefully the ECU needs to learn.

once I get the car running, I can consider upgrades.

nine9six

... sounds to me like it is running!
Once the ECU has gone through it's learning phase, we need to slap the PIWIS on the car, to see how things are functioning.

windydog

Porsche-ah

I've had nothing but problems with the Split Second Box. Is yours confirmed working/functional?

Hang in there! The supercharger is a beautiful thing. You'll get it sorted!

nine9six

Exactly my thoughts... Until you can confirm the split-second box as functioning correctly, it will be a guessing game through the process of elimination of variables.

Do you know for certain that you do not have an air leak? Will fuel trim readings reveal an air leak, or will you need to get the car smoke checked? What happened with the check you were going to do with butane or propane gas?

windydog

Update:

So i verified a vacuum leak is the culprit.
I am getting 5 in of Hg which indicates a leak at the manifold. I am taking the measurement at the TPC manifold, which is right after the input from the supercharger.
I confirmed a leak somewhere on the Supercharger assy but using carb cleaner. I spray the cleaner near the back of the supercharger assy and i get a loud fart and the engine dies.

To be clear, i have removed the split second box from the equation at this point. I am planning to use tape to seal up the interfaces and see if this changes things.

Question:
Am i taking the measurement in the correct location?

windydog

I decided to reseal the entire system with locktite 518.

Only took me 10 min to remove the entire system.

I found a loose hose, which I believe is the cause, but the reseal will not hurt.

It however took me 3 hrs to clean the parts.

More to follow.

windydog

Well I finally found some time to start.the car. I got code for P1124, which is an intake vacuum leak.

with my job and wife on me I am running out of time.

I resealed everything, I am stumped.

I am going to see if I can use a vacuum cleaner to find the leak. Basically it puts out positive pressure and you use soappy water. If it bubbles, you found it.

wallra

30 years in the field and I've never seen a code that say intake vacuum leak. If you don't have them check valves in the right place you'll get lean codes. you need to disconnect all the vacuum hose's from it just for a test plug the ports and see how it run's. always start with basics

wallra

I didn't mean to sound cocky. you could also unplug the mass air flow sensor and see how it runs. always start with the easy stuff.

windydog

Advice is appreciated.