samurai_k

Have you considered going retro cool with the OE equipment?

I am also looking at the audio control DSP amp which has speaker level inputs so can handle a head unit without rca line out. The OE CR and CDR head units have a line out via an adapter based on some quick research...

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ages-info.html

I like the Sony as it has Bluetooth input already integrated. This audio control will need a bluetooth to rca line in adapter which JL audio makes.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161D4800/AudioControl-D-4-800.html?tp=115&awkw=191387565385&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=99516645385&awdv= m&awug=9031973

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136911...io-MBT-RX.html

Tuner1

This has certainly been my experience! To go along with the big drivers I want to fit in the doors I am looking at amps like these...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136HD6...-4.html?tp=115

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091FDP...00.html?tp=115

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PDX...F6.html?tp=115

My rear 4x6s can run off deck power for a bit of fill.

andrewjn

pp000830

• Yes you may need to understand how to fit the grill or get generic replacement ones from Crutchfield, not sure this is a big deal as measuring what you got and a phone call to them can probably sort this out.
• If there is a special plug on the speaker Crutchfield will have an adapter or the plug on the original one can probably be cut off and mounted to the new speaker or a pigtail can be made from it if you don't want to just splice into the old wire. Adding a splice preserves the old pigtail wire if that is your aim while a soldered splice is very reliable. You can then just wrap the old terminal in some electrical tape and leave it in the door. Same deal for the back speakers.
• If you get the most common coaxial design where the tweeter is in the center of the speaker you can simply disconnect the OE tweeter and run with the replacement speaker only. I found reusing the original tweeter with its built-in simple capacitor crossover can sound quite harsh. I ended up just leaving it disconnected and ran with the tweeter in the aftermarket speaker.

I have done what you are doing twice, a power amp added under the passenger seat is a huge upgrade. It might be a good Idea to use a big two channel amp to power the front speakers and use the existing amp in the head to power the rear speakers as they have a very limited low-frequency response. This will give you the maximum power where it counts, in the doors, in a package that fits under the seat.

Andy

pp000830

I would only consider a class D amp that gets consistently great reviews and I can listen to in a shop first before buying:

Class D Description

Andy

samurai_k

I agree with you Andy. True with any of these audio purchases to go listen to the speakers and amps at a shop with your favorite tunes.

Everyone's definition of SQ (sound quality) is different. What might be great for some is indiscernible or inadequate for others. To each their own. I unfortunately been a audio nerd for a while so do like to have nice audio equipment for my office and desk as my reference are Sennheiser 650s and a schitt DAC/class A desktop amp.

At some point the difference between different quality speakers and amps becomes difficult to differentiate as the differences are subtle and again dependent on the person and content which is why you should go listen with your tunes yourself and be the judge. In a car, SQ is challenging given the road and engine noise you have to overcome (Fister mufflers and all the mods we do to harden our bushings etc... do not help) so you really can't expect critical listening in our cars. I do think the difference between an amplified vs a non amplified system is noticeable when you have decent speakers as the speakers are just playing what is sent to them. The hifi systems are starting from good place already as they have an external amp.

This thread of course is about our stock non hifi systems which is why I am making the case of decent speakers with a decent amp with some sound processing will go a long way. That is what modern car audio systems have as the "premium" audio option.

GwynnieMae

Ivan J

Yes, the Focal tweeters can definitely be installed in the factory pod. I did it, after reading the other threads that you mentioned on Rennlist. Instead of silicone, I used something like "blue tack" to hold them in-place. The cross-overs that came with my Focal speakers provide a level adjustment for the tweeter, which makes the location/pointing angle of the tweeter less critical.

pp000830

Lots of good points here.

palladio

Thanks for posting this thread. I too am in the upgrade process and nearly everything I found using searches was outdated.

My car is a C2 Coupe that came from the factory with the standard 2 way system. A previous owner installed an upgraded system, but as a music producer I have picky ears, and want to get the best sound I can while still looking as stock as possible. The car currently has Polk Audio 2-ways installed, an MTX 4x50 watt amp in the frunk, and a Sony head unit with bluetooth, etc.

After some lengthy listening sessions with a wide variety of music types at a local car audio shop, I decided to go with the Focal Flax 2-way system mentioned above. I think they have a quite natural sound and were better than the other speakers I auditioned. The only other pair that I wanted were Arc Audio Black speakers, which were a little more neutral than the Focals. They also had slightly better bass response. But they were 50% more expensive and the A/B with the Focals was too close for me to justify the extra expense. According to my installer, and also Rod at Car Audio Innovations, the Focals will fit in the stock locations/grills.

I read a lot of good things here in previous threads about Rod and his expertise working with 911 installations. So I called and he couldn't have been more helpful. After several conversations, in which he thoroughly answered all my questions, I decided to add sub enclosures in the rear footwells to complement the 2 way Focal system. I don't use the footwells, and the enclosures Rod builds for the 993 can go in and be removed without mucking up the original interior.

I am also going to remove the amp from the frunk, and replace it with a newer Class D amp under the passenger seat. Rod recommended the Alpine PDX V9 amp as great fit for that application, but I have access to a used ARC Audio xdi 1220.6 6 channel amp, which I am going to try first to see if it fits.

Not sure yet if I'll bother connecting the rear deck speakers to my head unit for fill, or just go with the Focal/JL Audio sub combination.

Hope I didn't hijack the thread, but thought I'd post my experience thus far. I can post more info and photos once the installation takes place if others are interested. Have to give a shout out to Rod at https://www.caraudioinnovations.com/. He really knows his stuff and was very generous with this time and knowledge to help me, even though I'm having the installation done locally in SoCal.

If anyone wants my Polk Speakers as an upgrade from the stock ones, feel free to PM me.

95_993

Yes it does. Very happy with the my Continental and Bluetooth streaming. Pairs well all the time and google maps chimes in when appropriate. Lastly, seems to be a good match to my FOCAL 165s in the door and Polks in the rear.

Alfa40

Thanks for everyone's input here so far. I consider myself less of an audiophile than most of you seem to be, but I decided to take a route that is open to extensions later on:

- Replace the front speakers with Focal Performance Expert FLAX PC165F 6.5". For sale by a German shop for roughly $240. Since these are coaxial speakers, I'll disconnect the OEM tweeters. I doubt I'd notice the additional SQ from separate tweeters and it keeps the door closer to stock without the need for glueing tweeters into the pods. I hope they are an easy fit, perhaps @BeauBlues, @L39E, 95_993 can chime in. Crutchfield says they don't fit and this thread looks terrifying but isn't really comparable since he tried fitting two speakers in one door.

- At this point, I'll assess how I like it. If the power isn't enough, adding an amp and replacing the rear speakers are always options as I went with quality components to begin with. I'll be sure to properly document fit and improvements once this is built in.

pp000830

Sounds like a good plan. Don't be surprised if you need an amp to add clarity. Your rear speakers are probably dried out and may be adding distortion. They add so little to the sound you can also consider just disconnecting them.

ftlaud911

I did a whole system upgrade. Sounds decent and didnt break the bank. I did 6.5 separates in front and 4x6 in back by JBL. It looks great and sound is good. Not a ton of bass, but no speaker brands will. For the radio I did the new Sony that has a built in amp 100x4 (45w rms). Sounds super clear even at 80% volume. You have to run a 12awg wire from the battery. Additionally I put in some sound deadening in the doors. No rattles and sounds solid. For the 4x6 I bought aftermarket grills that worked great.

GwynnieMae